Lets switch gears and talk about AC for a moment. My builder recommends 14 seer based on the upfront cost and little ROI. Do any of you have any different advice? $20k was in the initial budget.
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I'm no expert on HVAC systems, so I'll just comment on a few things. The higher the Seer rating, the less it will cost you to run, or so they say. In the summer of 2019, I had to replace my HVAC system. I went with a Amana 3.5 ton Seer19 unit for $8,500 that did not include any duct work, since that was already in place. I financed it with a monthly payment of something like $200 a month, and paid it off early in two years.
I don't remember what the previous unit was rated for. It was a Trane that always had some sort of an issue. Comparing my electric bill from the summer before, and the summer of having the new, better rated unit, I couldn't see any difference in my electric bill.
Trane has a big factory here in Tyler, and I know quite a few people that work there. I've never heard anything bad about the place, or what's done there, but I don't know anybody that would buy a Trane a second time.
The best thing that I like about the Amana is how quite the outside unit is. The only place that I have to put it is next to my backyard porch. When it's on, you have to be paying attention to know it, otherwise, it's so quite, you just don't hear it.
As a Contractor, I've been in more attics then most people. One of my favorite things when I'm in an attic is solid metal duct work. They always leak and offer some cold air while up there. I've never seen a solid metal duct that didn't leak somewhere. I've never seen them brand new either, just ones that have been there for a few years. It's just a matter of time until one of the seams crack. Where you given some sort of a reason to go with metal ducts instead of flex lines?
Also, as a Contractor, I've been called by clients to try and improve the insulation and of rooms cooled my mini split systems. In my opinion, they are nowhere near as good as a ducted HVAC system. Not even close. Mini splits might be ok if that's your only option, after everything is built and you are adding on, or enclosing an area that you cannot get a duct to, but not for new construction where you should be able to get a duct there.
As for keeping a house at a desired temperature, insulation is the second most important thing. Air flow is number one. If the wind can get through our walls, your insulation is defeated. House wrap has been the standard to stopping air flow for awhile now, but it does leak and it requires a lot of tape to keep air from getting through the seams. Especially windows!!! Coatings like what's used on ZIP System are better then house wrap because they seal 100% of the air if taped properly.
Attic insulation is where my clients see the biggest reduction in their monthly bill. Almost every house is under insulated in the attic. Where I live in East Texas, our Code is R42 for attic insulation. That's about a foot and a half of blown in insulation. I personally have R60 in my house, which is 2 feet of Attic Cat blown in insulation. After R60, you are not going to notice anything, so that's where I like to be.
If you can afford Foam, then that changes everything. Closed Cell Foam stops air flow, and it's a better insulation then fiberglass or any blown insulation. I believe it's R value is undervalued, but I don't really know what Closed Cell equals in fiberglass or blown in. If you are talking to an Foam Insulation guy, ask if they use Open Cell on a roof. If he says yes run away and ignore everything he's told you. If he says that he wont use it because Open Cell retains moisture and that moisture destroys roofs, then listen to what he recommends for Closed Cell on your home.
Your HVAC system is only as good as your house seal, and insulation.
