Hooking up my bushhog

[R_Walter]

Another of those messages on hooking up an attachment.

In hooking up and adjusting my bushhog, should it be resting with pretty much half the weight on the single tail wheel or should more than half of the weight be on the 3PH? Or, should almost all the weight be on the 3PH and the tail wheel is only used to keep the back of the bushhog from dropping down too far as the tractor goes up and down over depressions and rises?

What's the proper balance? Thanks.

 

[IslandTractor]

I personally don't think it matters that much. The downside of having too much weight on the rear wheel is that it might dig in in soft ground while if you have too much weight on the 3PT then the tractor's steering might be a tad touchy but basically the thing should work fine whether you have it mostly on one or the other.

 

[jenkinsph]

I would think most of the weight should be supported by the tractor. If you consider the poor bearings and small size of most tail wheel assemblies they will not last long with high loads on them. Better to consider it a guage wheel of sorts.


Steve

 

[GaryCrowell]

Most bush hogs have a mechanism where the top link connects that allows the top link to articulate. Properly adjusted, the bush hog should be supported by the lift arms and the tail wheel, there should be no tension on the top link. Adjusted this way, the weight distribution will take care of itself. I'd guess that roughly half the weight is on the lift arms and half on the tail wheel, but that doesn't really matter.

 

[IslandTractor]

Most bush hogs have a mechanism where the top link connects that allows the top link to articulate. Properly adjusted, the bush hog should be supported by the lift arms and the tail wheel, there should be no tension on the top link. Adjusted this way, the weight distribution will take care of itself. I'd guess that roughly half the weight is on the lift arms and half on the tail wheel, but that doesn't really matter.

I think that is the best answer.

 

[Ford850]

I agree with GaryCrowell. Another issue with little weight on the tail wheel is that it chatters and is less likely to roll and swivel when it's supposed to.

 

[rd_macgregor]

I learned the hard way to keep the top link chain loose. I have very hilly and uneven pastures and, if the chain goes tight over a bump, the tail wheel will rotate around backwards or sideways, then slam down onto the ground as I head through the following dip. I first bent the wheel support arms sideways and then actually tore the metal at the top of the fork at the base of the tail assembly verticle axle.
Now I am careful to back off the toplink tension a long ways so the tail wheel stays on the ground. This means that I can't pick the mower all the way up with the 3ph without first getting off the tractor and tightening the top link a bit, but it is worth the bother of an extra dismount not to have to weld up or pound straight the tailwheel forks again.
BOB

 

[have_blue]

Another of those messages on hooking up an attachment.

In hooking up and adjusting my bushhog, should it be resting with pretty much half the weight on the single tail wheel or should more than half of the weight be on the 3PH? Or, should almost all the weight be on the 3PH and the tail wheel is only used to keep the back of the bushhog from dropping down too far as the tractor goes up and down over depressions and rises?

What's the proper balance? Thanks.

The weight should be equally divided.

If there's too much weight on the 3PH, the tail wheel will bounce, and the mower won't follow the contours of the ground smoothly. It will also stress your 3PH more when you hit bumps and dips.

I don't think it's possible to have too much weight on the tailwheel. If that occurs, then your mower adjustment will be wrong.

Always make sure your top link has a good bit of slack when your mower is set to the mowing height you want. When you raise the deck with the 3 point, the deck should still be fairly level or drooping just as the tailwheel comes off the ground.

 

[GreenLawnFarm]

great info thanks!

 

[JoeL4330]

As others have said, the weight distribution will take care of itself when it is properly set up ...i.e., with a swinging link or chain at the "toplink" that allows the tail to kick up or drop down sufficient for the undulations in your field, with some to spare. Indeed, it is not unheard of to disconnect the toplink except for transport.

That taken care of, the amount above the ground at the front of the mower will be the height of cut, and the rear should be higher to allow easy discharge (which may mean you have to adjust the tail wheel) ...how much higher may depend on how high the stuff is you are cutting and how quickly it would build up underneath.

The next caution is that with the rear "properly" raised, there is cosiderable danger to anyone/thing behind the tractor (for a fair distance) when you are mowing ...hopefully, you have "chains" dangling as a guard ...which will slow down (but not necessarily stop) potentially lethal projectiles.

 

[Deadman]

I mow with the front of my LX4 laying on the ground! It cuts down to 1 inch that way. Its great because then the grass kinda gets dry and burned from the sun and that stunts its growth. I know it is wearing on my skids, but in 10 years, I'll weld a small piece of flat iron on the bottom and let it drag for 10 more years! I keep the rear raised a bit with the rear wheel. that way it can throw the clippings out easier. My little 4 footer often throws long grass/weeds 20 feet and scatters them.

 

[Dave5264]

Just read through this post, and i have a Question (Newbie), the top link on my 3pt is a solid shaft with an adjustable screw style section (probably standard fare), how do you "Get Slack" in that ?...by definition its a solid connection that either pushing or pulling on the top link of the Mower isnt it...what am i missing ?

thanks guys

 

[IslandTractor]

Basically you cannot get slack with a solid topping lift. Some mowers have a slot and a round hole so you can choose the slot which gives some of the same effect as using a chain. Other mowers have a pivoting topping lift attachment which also serves the same purpose.

 

[SideHillBill]

If your tractor has a draft control, hook the 2 lower arms up then adjust the draft control so the bush hog is level or slightly higher in the front. (Slightly higher if you're going to in heavy brush or high grass). Then adjust your top link so the pin goes in easily when you hook it up (no tension). Happy hoggin.

 

[JoeL4330]

how to get slack: (1) the implement has a swinging toplink; (2) use a chain instead of a rigid toplink; (3) find, get and use the harbor freight quickhitch toplink adapter; (4) unhook the toplink when the implement is in use, reconnect for transport.

 

[gerard]

Just read through this post, and i have a Question (Newbie), the top link on my 3pt is a solid shaft with an adjustable screw style section (probably standard fare), how do you "Get Slack" in that ?...by definition its a solid connection that either pushing or pulling on the top link of the Mower isnt it...what am i missing ?

thanks guys

The "slack" comes from the mower itself, a solid toplink doesn't affect this. Some articulations are swinging joint, others use chains. Either one the top link should be adjusted to leave slack in the mowers articulating mechanism. Tis allows the mower to follow the contours of the ground as the tractor goes up and down on hills. If you take out this slack, the mower will not follow as well, raising up and leaving unmown or high spots. Something NOT mentioned yet is the use of check chains which take the weight off the three point rocker arm. I use these to good effect. You lower the three point all the way and the check chains keep it from going all the way to the ground BUT the articulating joint still swings free, allowing the rear of the mower to "float" up and down over hills. (If you have a perfectly flat mowing surface this is a lot less important)

 

[have_blue]

Just read through this post, and i have a Question (Newbie), the top link on my 3pt is a solid shaft with an adjustable screw style section (probably standard fare), how do you "Get Slack" in that ?...by definition its a solid connection that either pushing or pulling on the top link of the Mower isnt it...what am i missing ?

thanks guys

On your bush hog,,, if you don't have a hinged link on the top hitch point on the A frame, then you may have a slotted link farther back on the A frame. Next time your bush hog is unhitched, see if the entire A frame will hinge back a foot ot so. My Squealer has such an arrangement, and it works fine.

 

[Dave5264]

Basically you cannot get slack with a solid topping lift. Some mowers have a slot and a round hole so you can choose the slot which gives some of the same effect as using a chain. Other mowers have a pivoting topping lift attachment which also serves the same purpose.

Ahhh....yes...thanks...mine has that swivel top link on the mower bracket....makes sense now.