Honda quad question

[pmsmechanic]

I bleed my brakes from the caliper up. I use a pressurized pump container that is designed to blow up water balloons that I modified. Turkey baster out from the resevoir.

I do the same thing. Sometimes it's the only way to get brakes bled.

 

[dfkrug]

So I started trying to bleed the bubbles out, and just when it ought to be coming around, I notice inside the master cylinder when I pull the brake handle I see something squirting up from inside the master cylinder. Not air, I am sure pressure is bleeding past the rubber cup inside the master cylinder.

I have done many many of these master cyls.

What you see is normal. Don't take apart the M/C if it was working before. The M/C has 2 chambers, one
to put pressure on the fluid, and one to suck in more fluid from the reservoir. If you put the rubber
deflector back in the M/C while hand-bleeding, you will not get the geyser of fluid shooting up.

If you DO take apart the M/C, the hard part is getting the internal snap ring out. A rebuild kit will usually
have a new rubber boot, 2 seals, one piston, a spring, and a new internal snap ring. Aftermarket makers
are plenty. About $20.

In contrast, try bleeding the brakes on a shifter go-kart.....no reservoirs at all.

 

[KubotainNH]

What you see is normal. Don't take apart the M/C if it was working before. The M/C has 2 chambers, one
to put pressure on the fluid, and one to suck in more fluid from the reservoir. If you put the rubber
deflector back in the M/C while hand-bleeding, you will not get the geyser of fluid shooting up.

Exactly and the faster you pull the lever the higher it will squirt. If you pump it slowly it shouldn't be bad. Otherwise just sit the cover on the top and watch the level. Takes time but not a biggie.

 

[Code54]

Exactly and the faster you pull the lever the higher it will squirt. If you pump it slowly it shouldn't be bad. Otherwise just sit the cover on the top and watch the level. Takes time but not a biggie.

X3 - as stated it is totally normal. Those little buggers seem like they can hold 10x more air then brake fluid.....

 

[handirifle]

OK I understand you guys are saying this little squirt is "normal"? Seems like pressure is bleeding backwards, and there is a slight stepped or crunchy feeling at the end of the lever stroke.

Not sure if I mentioned in, but I went through a quart of brake fluid, bleeding and trying to get the air out, or even a SLIGHT bit of lever pressure. Starting to wish I had never touched it now. At least the old "muddy" fluid stopped the bike. The squirt does not go high enough to exit the master cylinder, so I see no reason to put the top back on, it's just an indicator, to me, that pressure is getting past the rubber seals inside.

I would LOVE to have some sort of power bleed system. The ones I remember from auto repair days, sat on top of the master cylinder, and pumped it in from there.

I am not sure how you made the reverse bleed device. If you pump fluid in from the bottom, what happens when it overflows?

 

[jejeosborne]

I am not sure how you made the reverse bleed device. If you pump fluid in from the bottom, what happens when it overflows?

Turkey baster.

 

[jejeosborne]

Here was my starting point.

 

[handirifle]

OK I am starting to get ideas. Thanks. Hopefully it's just air in my system. Will report back.

 

[crazyal]

I use a mityvac. I think Harbor freight has a clone of it. You just put it on the vent screw on the caliper and squeeze it. It'll draw the fluid from the master down to the caliper. It has a reservoir to collect the brake fluid so you don't make a mess and you don't loose it. Works well.

 

[crazyal]

I had the ATC250SX for a few years, and it ran great. Never changed the jetting, but I never tried starting it below
40F.Vermont is COLD.

Anyway, did you just change the low speed, or also the mid and main? The main needle on the CV carb may have
had multi position settings, if I recall. This is essentially the same carb you see on most of those 80s thumpers.

Virtually all of these carbureted ATVs can benefit from a richer low-speed jet, esp if made after 1997.

Good fix, AL.

Both my neighbor and I bought one in the fall of 85. The serial numbers were less than 20 apart but when it came to the motor it was night and day. When it came to cold starting his would flood unless you turned off the choke right after starting. Mine would need the choke no matter how warm it was outside for a good 5 minutes. I can't remember what size the slow jet was but I did go up one and then readjusted the mixture screw. I didn't have to change the clip as mid revs the engine seamed to be fine. I had to reduce the main jet from a 130 down to a 120, it's easy to identify using the plug if it's rich or lean. There's an order to what to adjust first. Without a kit with lots of jets it's a slow process. I personally think my problem was more the main jet not allowing the spark plug to get to the correct temp leaving it dark and sooty. My original attempt to fix it was by changing the heat range of the plug, it helped but not as much as it really needed. Rejetting the carb was a lot more work but a correctly jetted Honda will run forever.