Hill Climbing Primer

[RoyJackson]

I'd suggest chains on the rear tires and as much weight as you can get in the loader's bucket. Personally, I would not depend on the differential lock...once traction is lost on one tire, a differential lock isn't going to guarantee adequate traction on the other tire...both might spin. Then low gear, seat belt on and going up slow and steady.
Now, if I'm looking at those pictures right...it doesn't look like a steady slope...seems to be a bit of a rise, then pretty steep at the end...is then correct? If so, I use the tractor to drag the logs to the beginning of the steeper section, then winch them up the steep part from above.
To me, the worst scenario would be getting halfway up that steep section and getting stuck (log digging in, for example) Logging winches lift the end(s) of the log up a few inches to prevent this. Your 3PH might be able to lift the end, but that will raise your C of G...so, again, front ballast is essential.

Your 1700 weighs about 2300 lbs plus the loader...figure about 3000 lbs total. Any of those logs that look to weigh more then 1000 lbs...might be worth cutting them in half....make it easier to skid them up that slope.

Another suggestion is have someone else there...just in case.

 

[square1]

I think you might want to recheck the weight of that walnut butt log. I am thinking a 16 foot black walnut log that is green and has an average diameter of 18" will weigh over 1600 lbs. Closer to 1700 probably. Even dry it will be quite a bit over the 700 you are predicting. I have a log weight calculator that I use. It could be wrong but it is usually right on.

Just thought you should check again.

:forehead slap: You are right! How could I forget pi, I like pi! I thought there was something wrong, but by repeating my mistake enough times I convinced myself it was right :/forehead slap: Looks like the bigger trees are going to be a challenge. Max draw bar pull is rated @ 2,800 lbs., so the tractor should still be up to the task under good to ideal conditions.

re: taking the hill grade down with the tractor & box blade, How do / did you compact it enough that erosion didn't become a problem. That's why I was thinking dozer.

 

[k0ua]

Dont forget a log arch can solve this problem. Now that we know you probably can't lift the logs in the FEL.. You can use your snatch block idea but using a log arch your logs wont drag in the dirt, with wheels on both ends. I would probably try to make one first.

 

[Egon]

Just remember with a locked differential and both wheels spinning the back may go sideways.

 

[square1]

Now, if I'm looking at those pictures right...it doesn't look like a steadt slope...seems to be a bit of a rise, then pretty steep at the end...is then correct? If so, I use the tractor to drag the logs to the beginning of the steeper section, then winch them up the steep part from above.

Good eye, you're absolutely right. Thanks for the tip. Would using longer rigging, so the tractor is on the flat at the top of the hill by the time the logs hit the steep section, work the same? There's lots of room to run at the top. I also was thinking this set-up would give greater leeway in backing down if traction became a issue. The black walnut will be the only ones I can't cut down and will have to drag as they're saw logs. The ash is just going to be firewood so i can cut them to short lengths to reduce weight.

 

[square1]

Dont forget a log arch can solve this problem.

Well isn't that just the Cat's meow! I'm embarrassed to say I'd never heard of this before. I inventoried (50) trees today, all 16" DBH or larger. A Log Arch just moved to the top of the list of must haves. Thanks!

 

[Gordon Gould]

The black walnut will be the only ones I can't cut down and will have to drag as they're saw logs. .

I am not familiar with your local log market but I think ours is pretty typical. Here a hardwood sawlog is 8', 10', 12' ...etc. plus trim. If it is really high quality a 6 footer may be OK. Are you sure they need to be 16'. That sounds odd to me for hardwood. Or is there a special reason you want them 16 footers ? Just wondering.
From my experience you will have your hands full handling a 1700 lb log even on flat ground. A 1700 lb wagon on the draw bar is very different from a 1700 lb log flat on the ground.

 

[joshuabardwell]

Something I've never been able to figure out is, if you pull the log from the three-point, in order to get it off the ground, how do you keep from pulling from a point above the rear axle?

 

[Gordon Gould]

Something I've never been able to figure out is, if you pull the log from the three-point, in order to get it off the ground, how do you keep from pulling from a point above the rear axle?

Look at where your 3pt lift arms are attached to the tractor. They will be attached below the axle center point of rotation. So even if the lift arms are raised to pick up a weight the tractor sees the weight it must pull at this low, below axle, attachment point. This is if you have no top link and you are pulling strictly from the 3pt lift arms with maybe a cross drawbar like this



Using the lift arms to pull gives a pulling point below the axle but there is also a rotational force from the weight of the log using the lift arms as levers which will lighten the tractor front end. This is also true when using the drawbar if there is any tongue weight. There is not much difference between using the draw bar or just the lift arms to pull. Both pull from below the axle. Both can be dangerous and warrant caution. If you catch the log on a stump. root, or rock and stop the tractor the tires will try to keep turning lifting the front end. This is what makes the tractor pulling hard with an already lightened front end go over backwards so quick. It is the drive to the tires not the load that flips the tractor. Don't assume you are safe because you are using the draw bar. Getting the log off the ground by lifting it with the lift arms requires less pull because it doesn't dig in and you are less likely to catch on something so I think it is better.

If you use a setup that also has a top link connection it gets more complicated. If you are interested look up Harry Ferguson the 3pt hitch inventer to see how his ingenious invention works.

 

[MESSMAKER]

Make a sled out of an old pallet(put runners on the bottom) or a car hood. Put the near end on the device and use the longest rigging you can without being cumbersome. You should take most of the danger out of the operation. Big logs with weight hanging off both sides of the tractor while navigating hills is too dangerous. Loss of traction and weight transfer could put you in a difficult situation in a nanosecond. Pull with the drawbar on the belly of the tractor. You could also chain the tractor at the top and winch them up the hills, but this will require purchase of a $300 winch.