Hill Climbing Primer

   / Hill Climbing Primer #351  
Define complete. Look at the original question then define complete in the context of all the pissing. Pretty sure there is sufficient information for anyone wanting an answer to the original question to consider it "complete enough" to make an informed and safe decision. This isn't about an unwillingness to gloss over a physical reaction to which important distinctions apply....and if it is, look at the previous 35 pages and ask how beneficial that stance has become.
The original question has been dealt with in several ways. It is an evolving job and I dont think OP has settled on a method yet. He has had lots of good advice and will get more when asked for.

In the mean time there has been a dispute about the accuracy of a claim made about pull point. You see that as a problem. So do I. It is a problem to base bold conclusions on incomplete pertinent information. It can make one too cautious or not cautious enuf. All because of a ready acceptance of the quick answer or deduction that seems right. Im surprised you didnt make that connection with your example experience.
 
   / Hill Climbing Primer #352  
Larry, again I say, it must be extremely frustrating for you to deal with those of us that are obviously inadequate in our abilities to understand your position. You are truly a better person than I to continue to deal with our stupid opinions. I cannot comprehend why you continue to post on this site. I salute you. :)
 
   / Hill Climbing Primer
  • Thread Starter
#353  
The original question has been dealt with in several ways. It is an evolving job and I dont think OP has settled on a method yet.
I jumped on the PA300 welder deal in anticipation of building a log arch for the saw logs if the bids from logging outfits / timber buyers to come in and harvest don't appeal to me. I think the smaller logs will chain to the FEL okay. Experimenting with some good sized firewood logs from another area on a lesser grade has me convinced with 4WD engaged in a low gear the Ford will pull the hill fine IF it ever dries out. As I said, time isn't an issue.

He has had lots of good advice and will get more when asked for.

This is very true and a real attractive feature of TBYN. I can tell I'm going to be hanging around here for quite a while ;)
 
   / Hill Climbing Primer #354  
I jumped on the PA300 welder deal in anticipation of building a log arch for the saw logs if the bids from logging outfits / timber buyers to come in and harvest don't appeal to me. I think the smaller logs will chain to the FEL okay. Experimenting with some good sized firewood logs from another area on a lesser grade has me convinced with 4WD engaged in a low gear the Ford will pull the hill fine IF it ever dries out. As I said, time isn't an issue.
;)
Sounds like a good plan for the saw logs. Bout the only way to keep em whole and DIY w/o a big tractor.
 
   / Hill Climbing Primer
  • Thread Starter
#355  
The entrance into to low area from the top looking down on a 2nd pile of small logs. I'll start with these in small loads and gradually increase the number of logs per load to get a feel for the task.
004.jpg

Brought this pile out this morning chained to the FEL in one trip after making a dry run empty. Low range, 2nd gear, 2000 RPM, 4WD & diff lock engaged the whole way. This was maybe 600 -700 pounds and very close to the limit of what the tractor will haul up the hill using the FEL. Had power to spare, but the back end got pretty light. Definitely going to need that log arch for the big logs.

Bought this today

20140526_092857[1].jpg

weighs between 400 & 500 pounds, didn't hook it up today but it might help some with keeping the back end down.
 
   / Hill Climbing Primer #356  
This thread is a great example of why I keep coming back to TBN: I always learn something. In this case it was also quite timely: I've been pulling downed trees out of wood piles using a chain. Started off hooking up to the top of the box grader, but felt I was abusing the 3 pt. mechanism. So I went to the draw bar. I've been lucky so far with respect to wheel stands, especially as I had some pretty bad misconceptions of how the torques were working. This in spite of taking statics and dynamics almost 40 years ago. Worst one is that I could pull as hard as I wanted as long as the pull point was below the rear axle. Thanks to the explanations here, now I can envision the contact patch walking forward out from under the axle as the tractor tips up, just as long as the draw bar is above ground. So I'll be extending the draw bar and working slowly (no more backing up and ramming it forward to jerk something loose). You guys may have just saved a life!

square1: weight in back is a good thing. I stack a few lengths of steel rail on the box grader when I'm carrying heavy loads in the FEL. Learned that lesson when I had a bucket full of gravel going down a steep hill and a splined coupling let loose on the propeller shaft to the front drive. With no engine braking on the front wheels and no traction out back, I found the brakes didn't do squat. Fortunately dropping the bucket saved the day, but now I understand about weight transfer, too.
 
   / Hill Climbing Primer #357  
This thread is a great example of why I keep coming back to TBN: I always learn something. In this case it was also quite timely: I've been pulling downed trees out of wood piles using a chain. Started off hooking up to the top of the box grader, but felt I was abusing the 3 pt. mechanism. So I went to the draw bar. I've been lucky so far with respect to wheel stands, especially as I had some pretty bad misconceptions of how the torques were working. This in spite of taking statics and dynamics almost 40 years ago. Worst one is that I could pull as hard as I wanted as long as the pull point was below the rear axle. Thanks to the explanations here, now I can envision the contact patch walking forward out from under the axle as the tractor tips up, just as long as the draw bar is above ground. So I'll be extending the draw bar and working slowly (no more backing up and ramming it forward to jerk something loose). You guys may have just saved a life!

square1: weight in back is a good thing. I stack a few lengths of steel rail on the box grader when I'm carrying heavy loads in the FEL. Learned that lesson when I had a bucket full of gravel going down a steep hill and a splined coupling let loose on the propeller shaft to the front drive. With no engine braking on the front wheels and no traction out back, I found the brakes didn't do squat. Fortunately dropping the bucket saved the day, but now I understand about weight transfer, too.
 
   / Hill Climbing Primer #358  
sj

you can "ram forward" against the load if you like, just press the clutch as your momentum carries you!

You must brace against something, brace against the part that does the most benefit! ;-)

Hills, loads and traction are always tricky. I slid the Fordson about 20 feet down the path to the lower level of the barn this afternoon. With the snow blade out front, It needs ballast out back!

Ill be adding that this summer ;-)
 

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