Loader HELP with 4320 SCV not re-centering

[gbw]

Put the fel on my 5 year old 4320 this spring, and the SCV control stick does not try to re-center from left (roll bucket up) position. The other 3 positions work fine and re-center, and the bucket roll up works, it just will not try to return the stick to center.

Is there a spring on this that may be broken, or what?

Thanks for any help,

gbw

 

[arlen4720]

There are springs in the SCV. I suppose one could be broken, but I would try lubing up the linkage good before I ripped into the SCV. Is it a cab or an open station? The cab has a cable, and the open station has a mechanical linkage.

 

[gbw]

It's open station and thanks, I'll take your advice. Do you know the best way to get to the linkage? It looks like the fiber cover panel has to come off, but there is an adjusting knob in the way. Thank you again,

 

[Rick Gent]

To get access to the SCV linkage to lube it, you will need to remove the seat first...only 4 bolts. You may be able to reach the linkage without removing the cover below the seat. The panel is a pain to remove with all the levers coming up through it. I had it off on my 4320 when I installed the 3rd SCV control lever. If the problem is in the SCV you will have to remove it anyway. Hopefully a good lubing will take care of it. Fluid Film will work great for this!

 

[gbw]

I removed the seat and checked everything, cleaning/lubing no help. I can see the linkage moving the piston / shaft moving into and out of the spool valve, moves freely but just is not pushed back to center from the left (roll bucket up) position. Return from the right (bucket down) works fine as does the other piston for up/down of the FEL itself.

It looks like the spring that re-centers the stick from the the left (roll bucket up) position isn't working -broken, stuck, whatever, and that the spring is in the spool valve itself? If so it's probably beyond what I'm comfortable tearing into. Someone else said the spring is in the 'can' attached to the bottom of the valve but I see no such 'can' on this model.

It may not be worth pursuing for now - the bucket does work I just have to be careful to manually re-center the stick and hold it there. Luckily I don't use the FEL much.

Thanks for the help!

 

[arlen4720]

This should get you started. I can get you the pages out of the repair manual for tearing the valve down, but it was too big (1.33MB) to post.PM me if you want me to email it.

The "cans" that the other guy was referring to is on the opposite end from the valve operating linkages. Sometimes, especially if you don't use the loader much, water can get in through the operator, and gum things up, and maybe cause a little corrosion. Don't be surprised if it's not a spring causing the sticking. As you can see, there is one spring per spool, so it's the same spring for both curl directions.

 

[gbw]

Thank you so much!

The second schematic is what I was looking for but couldn't find, and I think you're also right about the cause. It doesn't make sense that the spring actually broke. I would like to go ahead and repair the valve it while the tractor is apart, I've sent a pm for the pages to tear it down you so nicely offered.

Is there a rebuild kit for the valve? Looks like several seals etc. may need replaced.

Again, thank you for your generous help! pm sent

 

[pmsmechanic]

I've had very good results with just spraying a corroded valve with WD-40 while moving the sticky valve back and forth. Don't be scared to use lots of WD as it washes away the corrosion loosened by the back and forth motion of the valve. You should be able to feel the difference right away and after a minute or so the valve should be free.

 

[RG1]

I've had very good results with just spraying a corroded valve with WD-40 while moving the sticky valve back and forth. Don't be scared to use lots of WD as it washes away the corrosion loosened by the back and forth motion of the valve. You should be able to feel the difference right away and after a minute or so the valve should be free.

JD Super Lube works even better, and it doesn't turn all gummy later on like WD does.

 

[gbw]

Thanks. The problem isn't corrosion or debris or dirt or anything on the outside - the spool (the shaft itself) and the linkage both move freely in both directions for full travel.

Problem is the spring to push the spool back to center from the stick-left (spool out or curl bucket up) position isn't pushing the spool. Schematic shows a dual action spring in the 3-column housing on the side of the valve. The very end of the spool is attached to the far end of the spring.

The spring isn't broken or it wouldn't work in either direction. So without looking inside yet it's either the retainer at the end of the spring&spool or the the plug what holds the retainer that captures the spring to the end of the spool. Just a guess so far, we'll see.

Mr. Arlen generously sent me information on how to tear down the valve but I doubt I'll go that far. I am going to remove the spring housing to see if I can see why the end of the spool isn't being pulled back in to center.