HELP ! rotary mower drags when loading

[Beavis]

I have an 18ft. trailer with a 2ft. dove tail. When loading my tractor and rotary mower, the mower drags on the ground. I have the 3pt. raised as high as it will go, but I'm looking for suggestions. THANKS

 

[SnowRidge]

Tighten the top link as much as you can while the cutter is sitting on the ground, before you try and load it. That should allow you to raise the mower higher. I have to do mine twice, once on the ground, and once with it sitting on the dovetail. But then, I back onto my trailer and need to get the mower high enough to sit up on a raised 4x4 up at the front.

 

[MrJimi]

I think you need to shorten your top link or get a shorter one and make sure your not on a hill, be flat, is your trailer level? If it is try and raise the front a little with hitch or what ever you have, my coupler on my trailer is adjustable

 

[Beavis]

Thanks, I will try to adjust the top link as short as it will go tomorrow morning before loading.

 

[john_bud]

There may also be different holes in the lower 3pt arms. Using the ones closer to the tractor will raise the attachment up higher.

jb

 

[Beavis]

Thanks guys, I've got it loaded and it went on extremely smooth. Also by lifting up the rear of the mower, it makes the trailer lights (low on the dovetail) more visible.

I'm off to mow; first duty with the new tractor.

 

[Highbeam]

Thanks guys, I've got it loaded and it went on extremely smooth. Also by lifting up the rear of the mower, it makes the trailer lights (low on the dovetail) more visible.

I'm off to mow; first duty with the new tractor.

That's odd. The mower should set flat on the trailer deck and not be doing any funny business supported by the top link. It sounds almost like you previously set the mower on the dovetail section of the trailer deck which could cause issues. Maybe now your trailer/mower combo is farther forward?

 

[Slacker]

I had this same problem. I removed the toplink and replaced it with a short chain and D-rings.

 

[john_bud]

I've had the mower sit up on the trailer deck then slide down slowly during transport. Finally dawned on me that the trailer deck was wood and friction was keeping the mower from sliding, so it would hang up. When it happens now, I either jump up and down on the mower like a monkey until it drops, or put a 6' long 1/4" steel rod across the trailer deck. The mower skids roll out flat, slicker than deer guts on a door knob that way!

 

[Highbeam]

One good way to keep your mower in place on the road. Also note flipping of tailwheel to reduce overhang. And yes, I can easily access the blades in this position to sharpen them. Plenty of room for a 4.5" grinder under there.

 

[Beavis]

One good way to keep your mower in place on the road. Also note flipping of tailwheel to reduce overhang. And yes, I can easily access the blades in this position to sharpen them. Plenty of room for a 4.5" grinder under there.

Looks exactly like my P+J trailer; I also fold up the tail wheel. The problem that I ran into was: if my mower was level like yours, when the front of the tractor started up the ramps, the rear-most part of the mower would hit the ground/pavement; even with it raised. By shortening top link, it lifted the rear of the mower about 9" higher than the front. When I raise the 3-pt, the rear of the mower is more than 9" higher. Now, as the tractor drives up the ramps, it doesn't drop the rear into the ground. VISUAL: take a look at your picture. Leave the front of the mower touching the trailer, and raise the remost part of the mower about 9" by shortening the top link. This really helps with the visibility of the trailer lights also.

Have a good weekend.

 

[gkh7890]

Try taking off the top link to load and unload. I'm using my Father-n-law's JD 5103 w/ a Woods Brush Bull 72 and I have an 18ft. (2ft. dovetail w/ hinged ramps & wood decking) trailer . I've bent the wheel spindle on the bush hog twice due to the sharp angle of going on and off the trailer. So after putting the 2nd new spindle on, I unhooked the top link and let the BH pivot on the 2 hitch arms. This worked really well. The only snafoo was that the back shield plate on the BH was bent up a little and it caught on the metal framing as I tried to back off the first time. Once I figured that out, it was easy on and off, re-attach the top link and go mow.

Have fun!

 

[Beavis]

PHOTO !!

 

[Rowski]

Another use for hydrauilc top link!

 

[SnowRidge]

Another use for hydrauilc top link!

No kidding. I have been doing a lot of trailering lately, and while I have always wanted to add hydraulic top-n-tilt, the PITA of adjusting the top link twice for each load and unload has convinced me sooner rather than later.

Now, if someone would just come up with hydraulic tail wheel fold....

 

[Beavis]

Photos that show the top link adjusted to "trailering mode"

 

[daBear]

Looks like an awfully big tractor for that yard.

 

[kennyd]

What are you towing with?
That setup looks very tail heavy to me on the trailer. I think you need more weight on the tongue to avoid fishtailing at higher speeds.

 

[SnowRidge]

It may be just the angle, but there looks to be more daylight between the front wheel and the fender than the rear wheel and the fender. If so, that is not a good sign.

If in doubt, unload and measure the hitch to ground distance with the ramps up, then reload and measure it again, also with the ramps up. The distance should have noticeably decreased.

 

[Beavis]

It is just the angle in the photo. When I picked it up from the dealer, I had it loaded about 6" to 1' too far forward and the tounge weight was too much. I've got it all leveled out now and it tows great.