Help ordering hydraulic fittings (for rear remote)

[Sodo]

Hello,

Can anybody help me identify these fittings so I can order them online? This is the rear remote that came on my used Kubota B2710 (DINOIL brand). Currently its operating the top-n-Tilt on the 3-point hitch. and the middle spool is un-used.

I want to add another set of fittings and a lever to the 3rd spool, but I've never ordered hydraulic fittings before, don't know my way around the names (or threads). I was going to assume that if there's teflon sealant then it's 1/4" NPT but decided to ask first.

Don't know what "A" is, or H, J. B is possibly a 1/4" nipple. Bolt laying there is for size comparison, it's 5/16". E is an oops (have plenty of those).

I know I need these items:

C Qty: 2
D Qty: 2
F Qty: 2
G Qty: 2

Can anybody help me with what I need to order (to get this 3rd spool operational) and how to call out each part?

 

[Leejohn]

1st off take cap H off and see if that is JC fitting. You might have to change J just so you can use a short and a long 90 deg. to get you up and over the other fittings. The 2 long 90's could of been done with one fitting each.

 

[Tractor Seabee]

Also; I would download pages of a catalog like Surplus Center and compare the pictures. The QC should have a name and number on them usually the sliding locking sleeve. When you put it all back together "DO NOT USE TEFLON TAPE LIKE THE LAST GUY DID"; use a paste or liquid teflon pipe joint compound and only apply on the male pipe threads, leave the first thread bare. Invariably pieces of that tape break off inside and gum up the system.

Ron

 

[Leejohn]

I forgot to add and I was going to. The fitting all look to be 3/8" or #6.

 

[Sodo]

Yes probably 3/8". I could have measured them but thread does looks bigger than that 1/2" bolt head.
Thx for the note Ron, I always leave the 1st thread bare.

How do I tell if I have ISO 7241 or ISO 5675?

 

[Leejohn]

Go here http://www.discounthydraulichose.com/v/vspfiles/downloadables/qd_sizechart.pdf

 

[Sodo]

Thanks Lee, thats perfect. My tractor is 3 hours away so I can't look at the moment. Does anybody know whats standard for Kubota? I dont know if the rear hydraulics installed is "standard Kubota".

 

[rswyan]

I'm thinking that the pipe thread on the NPT fittings (and the quick couplers themselves) look more like 1/4" NPT.

Also looks like the fittings that go directly into the valve itself may be SAE Straight Thread O-Ring (aka "ORB" or O-Ring Boss) on the valve side.

Thanks Lee, thats perfect. My tractor is 3 hours away so I can't look at the moment. Does anybody know whats standard for Kubota? I dont know if the rear hydraulics installed is "standard Kubota".

In terms of your particular machine I' don't know that your questions above have any meaning, as I'm not sure your unit was ever offered with rear hydraulic remotes.

Kubota did offer a rear hydraulic block assembly as an option - which provided two ports (Out and In) to allow installation of a valve block (with Power Beyond), in series, just before the 3PH. If memory serves, the (female) ports on that hydraulic block were 1/4" NPT thread ... but I would have to check the instruction sheet or do a visual to make sure.

 

[Sodo]

I just assumed it was a Kubota kit, really have no idea. But I'm pretty sure it was installed by the Kubota dealer & ideally will have the same couplers as on the FEL.

When I get back to the tractor I will verify this. Got that pic of the ISO styles on my phone, will be easy to identify them. Also take off the covers I see whats under. Downloaded this "Hydraulic fittings thread guide" pdf to my phone.

Anyway thanks for the help to get going!

 

[BukitCase]

Sodo, if that mess you posted was done by your Kubota dealer, I would run away if they ever offered to do anything for you again :thumbdown:

1 - cobbled up fittings when there are single piece ones (cheaper and stronger too) to do the same job
2 - Teflon tape instead of NON-teflon, actual hydraulic joint sealer on pipe fittings https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HZKU4O/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'm kinda surprised they didn't use black iron, the rest of the job's so sub-standard.

Short non-QD - SAE 37° Flare (JIC) x O-Ring Boss (ORB) 90° Elbow
Long non-QD - SAE 37° Flare (JIC) x O-Ring Boss (ORB) 90° Extra Long Elbow
Short QD, ORB to pipe, screws right into Ag-style QD if there's enough clearance - O-Ring Boss (ORB) x Male Pipe (NPTF) 90° Elbow
Long (tall) QD - needs 1 high pressure nipple for female pipe input on Ag-style QD's - O-Ring Boss (ORB) x Male Pipe (NPTF) 90° Elbow

If the thread chart you dnl doesn't mention, NPTF stands for National Pipe Tapered Fuel - slightly different (better) thread shape than NPT, but compatible.

Also - if you need best flow on the new circuit, either upsize the QD's by one size or go for POPPET style instead of BALL style QD's.

Also, if you're ALWAYS gonna leave the TnT attached, I would probably remove the QD's entirely, and go with JIC fittings. Cleaner install and less leaks.

HTH... Steve (Oh, forgot to mention - in most cases, when using 90's don't even bother with the "long" versions - "short" and "long long" will clear each other, middle length usually NOT - )

 

[rswyan]

Kubota did offer a rear hydraulic block assembly as an option - which provided two ports (Out and In) to allow installation of a valve block (with Power Beyond), in series, just before the 3PH. If memory serves, the (female) ports on that hydraulic block were 1/4" NPT thread ... but I would have to check the instruction sheet or do a visual to make sure.

The threads on the rear hydraulic block (what is likely feeding your valve, assuming the dealer did it right) are 1/4" pipe ... looked earlier today on the B2910 to verify it. The flow rating on the rear hydraulic block is 4.5 or 4.7 gpm (from memory) .... which is somewhat less than the hydraulic block for the FEL is rated for (6+ gpm)

 

[Sodo]

Steve I know that rust just rubs you the wrong way.

Agreed the 6801LL long elbows would look better. But rather than tempting fate I'll just get same as whats there ( for $3.50 ) - don't want it to be a mix between ultra-pro and cobbled up. I'm too cheap & lazy to remove those other two anyway. Being only $30 in fittings away from "top notch" does give me comfort and the opportunity to clear it up when I retire. If I take this machine to the tractor show I'll change those fittings - gonna polish my FEL cylinders, throw a mexican blanket over the seat and kick Rswyan's B2910 butt with my rear hydraulics accessory!

I read NPTF as "Nat Pipe Thread Female", interesting that! Kubota QDs are not ball style AFAIK, I will check that too - to be sure.

RS you say its 1/4"pipe? OK I really need to see my tractor & measure fittings before ordering anything.

Thanks for the help!

 

[BukitCase]

Sodo, you really don't know me at all - YOUR rusty crud doesn't bother me one bit

'Sides, I'm too busy drawing up the plans for the new 40x60 shop to have any time left for polishing stuff... Steve

 

[rswyan]

... If I take this machine to the tractor show I'll change those fittings - gonna polish my FEL cylinders, throw a mexican blanket over the seat and kick Rswyan's B2910 butt with my rear hydraulics accessory!

LOL ... Prince SV vs. Dinoil Grudge Match ?

I read NPTF as "Nat Pipe Thread Female", interesting that!

Kubota QDs are not ball style AFAIK, I will check that too - to be sure.

The ones that came originally on my LA402 were 1/4" poppet style ... Snap-Tite brand specifically ...

RS you say its 1/4"pipe? OK I really need to see my tractor & measure fittings before ordering anything.

I say the rear auxiliary hydraulic block - which is the inlet/outlet on the rear axle case that's probably feeding your Dinoil valve - is 1/4" pipe (female)

Thanks for the help!

My pleasure ...

 

[Sodo]

Anybody know what's going on here? Why would there be a 1/4" NPT ftg (& swivel) in the 3/8" supply line. RS, you say that the aux hydr block is only 1/4" pipe?

Why does that bigger inlet elbow have a 1/4"pipe on it?

Forgot to look for the hydraulic block, see where this all comes from. Will report back.

 

[rswyan]

Anybody know what's going on here?

Well ... not to put too fine a point on it, but I think BukItCase kinda nailed it earlier ...

Why would there be a 1/4" NPT ftg (& swivel) in the 3/8" supply line.

The more interesting question is why in the world would someone place a quick disconnect in the supply, return or PBYD lines for a valve that is permanently mounted on the tractor ...

You'd think they would have been plumbed permanently ...

RS, you say that the aux hydr block is only 1/4" pipe?

Based on my visual inspection of the hydraulic block on my B2910, yes - it appears that the threaded inlet and outlet (both female) of the hydraulic block are 1/4 NPT.

I have the actual installation instructions for it up in the shop in the folder for the tractor ... I'll verify it in a little bit, when I go up there.

Why does that bigger inlet elbow have a 1/4"pipe on it?

Hard to say ... whoever did the install had that particular fitting in stock and wanted to get rid of it, etc., etc.

Probably no real legitimate reason for it ...

Based on the stated flow in and out of the hydraulic block, it does bottleneck it slightly.

Forgot to look for the hydraulic block, see where this all comes from. Will report back.

Looking at the tractor from the rear, it's on the right side, behind and north of the rear axle.

Look for a plate that is bolted to the rear case and has a pair of tubes welded to it, and a square/rectangular block of metal welded onto the tubes (which is where the threaded holes - which face rearward - are ...)

 

[BukitCase]

Other than standing by my previous observations (and Rswyan's) I'm wondering if your 'bota ever had a backhoe on it - if so, it probably would have had QD's on both inlet and outlet to/from the remotes -

My ancient 580B was one of the last Case TLB's where you could remove the hoe and replace it with a (very herky) 3-point with TnT AND an extra remote - and it has (large) QD's in and out of the hoe. The 3ph gets plugged into those same QD's.

IMNSHO, if you don't plan on a hoe for your 'bota (and who would, with a mini-ex available) those particular QD's would hit the trash bin along with the other "it's what I had left in the bucket" fittings... Steve

 

[Sodo]

I can't even guess why there would be a QD on the supply (no backhoe frame). All workin' good though, so I'm not likely to change fittings. If I had a need for more flow it's possible something could be gained. Got plenty of other stuff to do that I'm fastidious about (like my burn piles).

I followed the hoses and they go to the FEL block.

 

[rswyan]

I can't even guess why there would be a QD on the supply (no backhoe frame).

And if it was the Kubota 'hoe, it likely would have been supplied with a PTO pump ... at least for the BH4672B or BH4690B ... the later ones (BH 76 or BH 77 ?) maybe have been intended to run directly off the tractor's hydraulics, without a PTO pump.

Are there QD's on the PBYD and the return ?

All workin' good though, so I'm not likely to change fittings. If I had a need for more flow it's possible something could be gained. Got plenty of other stuff to do that I'm fastidious about (like my burn piles).

Well, hey ... a fella has to have his priorities I guess ...

But keep in mind that the FEL hydraulic block is rated for almost 50% more flow (6+ gpm) than the rear hydraulic block is (4.5 gpm)

I followed the hoses and they go to the FEL block.

Seriously ?

... the FEL hydraulic block ... not the FEL valve itself ?

How is the FEL valve being fed ... off the PBYD on the rear valve ?

:confused2:

 

[Sodo]

I've got a million little projects going on. Sawmilling wood, carpentry, fixit projects, maintenance. Its been raining and had burnpiles going too, and I can always find more stuff to clean up. So nice to be out in the woods - right now everything's green, vibrant, wildflowers out in force and you can almost hear the trees getting thicker. And my burnpiles, they seem to command respect, and gifts, incessant gifts. All I can say is it's really great exercise, and I can huck a stick farther than anybody and get it to land exactly in the intended location on the pile.

Thanks for that pic RS. My hoses go forward to this little rectangular unit, which I did not investigate (yet). Your incredulity piques my interest and I will look further, what that square block is. What would I use 6 gpm (vs 4.5) for that will benefit me? I don't recall tapping my foot waiting for the TnT.

What gpm do I "need" for a splitter for example?