Ok, that sounds pretty easy. The fuel tank sits under the seat so I'm assuming that when I pull the fender/body panel off the tank will either be bolted down to the frame or just balanced there? Just hoping they didn't design it to be attached to the body from the bottom since it seems to be a 3.5 gallon tank and I don't know how much fuel was left in it. I suppose I could always pump the fuel out with that transfer pump though!
Help identify Craftsman lawn tractor
- Thread starter bkenobi
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I just dump them out through a MR Funnel into a supply can. Yep, the tank has a bracket around it that supports the seat too. Watch the direction or mark it. Easy to flip it around and then the body bolts won't line up. Great time to replace the fuel line. Also when these tanks leak, it is at the seam- so a good time to check that too.
RandyT
Elite Member
The hydrogear 166768 is not a serial number it is a model part number whereas the 314-0510 is also a part number. When I put the hydrogear 314-0510 into my dealer system it auto converts to the 166768 number.
Ok great. I detached the seat wire so it should be ok so long as it doesn't catch on the body when removing.
Interesting. All of the manuals list the transaxle by the 314-0510 even though both show up on the sticker. I assumed one was the part number and the other some kind of a year nomenclature.
Interesting. All of the manuals list the transaxle by the 314-0510 even though both show up on the sticker. I assumed one was the part number and the other some kind of a year nomenclature.
I pulled the body and the tank (no leak so doesnt look like cracking is an issue). There are 2 potential access points to the transaxle (red and blue circle). Blue is a rubber plug I believe. Red is a hex socket bolt. Assuming its blue is it just a recessed grove so hank it out and access? No manual so dont want to try to find a replacement without part number.
Tinhack
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The fill plug is at the top of the bull gear housing.
Here's the Hydro-Gear manual.
Edit: Also check that the bypass lever is free and it's fully in "drive" mode. The bypass valve allows the mower to be pushed when not running. When not being pushed, the lever must be fully in drive mode.
Here's the Hydro-Gear manual.
Edit: Also check that the bypass lever is free and it's fully in "drive" mode. The bypass valve allows the mower to be pushed when not running. When not being pushed, the lever must be fully in drive mode.
Thanks for the manual. I found that one but wasn't sure that it was correct since it shows 310 not 314. I did see 166768 in there so was hoping it was right and you've confirmed that.
I sprayed some penetrating oil on the plug last night even though it looked clean so that I would hopefully not have an issue when I break it loose this weekend. You are saying that when I drain the existing oil the bypass should be disengaged (in the driving position) when I top things off. I'll check the depth before but I'm pretty confident it has to be low since on a downhill angle it was way worse meaning (I hope) that the fluid was running away from the components. Topping it off would probably be sufficient but it seems like new lubricant every 23 years is reasonable. Also gives me a chance to see if there's any crud I should be concerned with.
I sprayed some penetrating oil on the plug last night even though it looked clean so that I would hopefully not have an issue when I break it loose this weekend. You are saying that when I drain the existing oil the bypass should be disengaged (in the driving position) when I top things off. I'll check the depth before but I'm pretty confident it has to be low since on a downhill angle it was way worse meaning (I hope) that the fluid was running away from the components. Topping it off would probably be sufficient but it seems like new lubricant every 23 years is reasonable. Also gives me a chance to see if there's any crud I should be concerned with.
Does the axle need to turn when doing the purge operation? I would assume so or else things wouldn't be moved around. If so, then that means that I either need to have a way to sit on the tractor to drive it forward/back to purge or jack it up and level. I don't have a lift so if the axle must rotate I'll have to get more jack stands out and lift it up. I suppose since nobody would be under it I could just use a jacks rather than stands.
Farmer495
Veteran Member
I've had several AYP/Craftsman lawn tractors with 42" decks since the early 90s. The spindles are all the same. Main difference has been later ones were "12 gauge" and the mounting brackets on the top and PTO engagement rod versus cable. Yours looks to have electric clutch.
I've had my 1st AYP for 12 years and despite typical issues (head gasket, grenaded spindles) it keeps plugging along. This new one was intended as a project to replace that one bit if it doesn't work out I'll sell after fixed.
My old one has a linkage but it looks near identical to the electric clutch model. Is it possible that if i had the right length belt i could use the old deck on the new mower?
My old one has a linkage but it looks near identical to the electric clutch model. Is it possible that if i had the right length belt i could use the old deck on the new mower?
I removed the fill plug which was no issue. The fluid was basically at the top of the plug and although it's warmer than usual it certainly isn't hot weather (maybe 70F in the shop) and I haven't run the tractor in over a week. I pumped the fluid out and a little less than half a gallon in my gallon milk jug. The manual says it takes around 2.5 quarts so it seems there must be some residual that won't pump. The fluid was pretty thick and black though I didn't see any particulate, that doesn't surprise me. I'll try to find a filter cloth of some kind to see if there's any metal in the fluid. I also pulled the expansion tank since that's recommended by the service manual. Very little fluid in there though.
I ran into a little issue with the tiny torx screw on the expansion tank fastener. As expected of an 23 year old self tapping screw, it snapped off at the head. Guess I get to drill and tap it and put a real bolt in instead.
I ran into a little issue with the tiny torx screw on the expansion tank fastener. As expected of an 23 year old self tapping screw, it snapped off at the head. Guess I get to drill and tap it and put a real bolt in instead.
You did pretty good actually with your evac. I don't remember how the tank is sealed into the housing. A normal o-ring? But yes full to the top and a good layer in the plastic tank. 1/2" or whatever keeps the housing full and provides room for expansion.
Your deck is the same between the e clutch and manual , sans the brake arms. You could in theory use the same belt on an e clutch model if you removed the brakes. Electric decks used a heavier belt 174883. Tension is from a spring from the idler cam bolt to the cable holder. Mandrels on 42" inch stamped decks have only two styles, a 3 or 4 hole mount.
Your deck is the same between the e clutch and manual , sans the brake arms. You could in theory use the same belt on an e clutch model if you removed the brakes. Electric decks used a heavier belt 174883. Tension is from a spring from the idler cam bolt to the cable holder. Mandrels on 42" inch stamped decks have only two styles, a 3 or 4 hole mount.
scaredychicken
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my guess is this one ... 2012 model
www.tractordata.com
CTX 9000 Series
TractorData.com Craftsman 107.25004 tractor information
www.tractordata.com
That's a nice tractor but much newer than what I have. It looks nearly identical to the 917.272201. The local shop/bone yard has 2 on their lot that I believe are being worked on. The primary difference appears to be that one has the 25HP V-twin Kohler and a 46" deck where mine is the 20HP opposing twin Briggs and 42" deck. Mine could have a swapped deck making it the same with a different motor. Seems like that should make it easier to identify but model numbers don't seem to work that way.
FWIW, the two at the shop had mfg dates (based on S/N) of 13 June 2000 and 31 July 2000 whereas mine appears to be 21 August 2000. Not that it really matters (I don't think) but mine has a single bar code at the bottom which matches one of these two. The second one at the shop has two rows of bar codes. I have no idea what that means, just an observation.
FWIW, the two at the shop had mfg dates (based on S/N) of 13 June 2000 and 31 July 2000 whereas mine appears to be 21 August 2000. Not that it really matters (I don't think) but mine has a single bar code at the bottom which matches one of these two. The second one at the shop has two rows of bar codes. I have no idea what that means, just an observation.
