Having trouble finding cylinder replacement

[BimmerRacer]

Looks like I need

2" bore
1" rod
6" stroke
3/4" clevis ends
12" retracted
18" extended

and I can't seem to find one that meets the specs. They all seem to be too long, starting at 16" with 1" clevis ends. Ideas?

 

[LD1]

Looks like I need

2" bore
1" rod
6" stroke
3/4" clevis ends
12" retracted
18" extended

and I can't seem to find one that meets the specs. They all seem to be too long, starting at 16" with 1" clevis ends. Ideas?

About every clevis cylinder I have seen it is ALWAYS stroke + 10.25 = retracted length.

That puts you at the 16.25". Much less than that and you dont have room for the clevis on each end, piston/packing, and cylinder end caps.

Can I ask what this cylinder is going on or came off of?? Do you have a cylinder that needs replaced??? If so, on what??

We need more details, but if you are trying to build something and want a cyl with those specs, I'd say they dont make one BUT if it cae off of something or a peice of equipment, have you tried the manufacture?? What about rebuilding?? and are you sure about the bore/stroke measurments??

Again, we need more info please.

 

[BimmerRacer]

Kubota BX2763 plow, its the angling cylinder, althouth up/down looks the same.

Dealer wants 300 bucks, hence looking for aftermarket

I am sure about the measurements

I am not sure about rebuilding...the piston end threads are gouged up pretty bad....I hit something and overextended the cylinder, ripping out the piston

 

[LD1]

Kubota BX2763 plow, its the angling cylinder, althouth up/down looks the same.

Dealer wants 300 bucks, hence looking for aftermarket

I am sure about the measurements

I am not sure about rebuilding...the piston end threads are gouged up pretty bad....I hit something and overextended the cylinder, ripping out the piston

Just a guess, but i'd say its metric. And I'm not sure where to even look for a metric cylinder, other than the dealer.

I know some places will custom make cylinders, but that would probabally be just as much $$$ as the kubota cylinder??

 

[BimmerRacer]

One of the dealer online sites spec'ed it as 2x5...Are there places you think can repair?

 

[Rocwin]

If you have damaged something on the cylinder and a replacement is only $300 there isn't much room to work there. To repair, a shop is probably going to charge 2 hours labour, parts plus costs to repair any damage done. It is often not economical to repair small cylinders.

 

[LD1]

well, I did a google images search for that plow to actually see what cylinder you are talking about.

As it turns out, it looks like a welded "crosstube" cylinder and NOT a clevis cylinder.

On a clevis cylinder, the retracted length is usually stroke + 10.25" which would put A 6" cylinder @ 16.25"

Crosstubes take up less length. They are stroke + 8". That still puts you at a 14" overall length. But it is a step in the right direction. It could still possibally be metric.
Could you post some pics of the measurments. ( cylinder laid out with the tame measure beside it). Cause it it is metric, there could be a slight difference in pin diameter too.

A 2x6 with a 1" rod and 3/4" pins would be close to metric 50mm x 150mm with a 25mm rod and 19mm pins. If they make such a cylinder. But it is something else to look for.

PS, is this a double acting cylinder??

 

[LD1]

I did stumble upon one that is close.

2x6 with the 3/4" pin holes. The only differences between it and your specs is the rod is 1.25" and it is 1" longer retracted than you speced. It is 13".

https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=9-7708-6&catname=hydraulic

Maybe it will work???

 

[kennyd]

Kubota BX2763 plow, its the angling cylinder, althouth up/down looks the same.

Dealer wants 300 bucks, hence looking for aftermarket

I am sure about the measurements

I am not sure about rebuilding...the piston end threads are gouged up pretty bad....I hit something and overextended the cylinder, ripping out the piston

Sounds like you need a "cushion" or "cross-over" relief valve!

 

[BimmerRacer]

Nope, it is definitely a clevis. I'll take a pic of what I have tonight and post it. And looks like its -6 ports.

 

[Gizmo2]

I just ran into an issue when replacing a JD lift cylinder for my homemade snow blade. I remember paying about $180.00 22 years ago and thinking WOW but bought it anyway (no internet to speak of back then). Well I replaced it with a cylinder of comparable specification a couple of weeks ago, so I thought. The first time I lifted the blade at 2600 RPMs (plowing RPMs here), while sitting on the tractor I thought the blade was going to fly right over my head. The speed of the up and down was incredibly fast to say the least. I am down to 1/16 inch orifice fittings in the lines now and it is still mighty fast at 2600 RPMs. So, I am assuming the cylinders that JD and others sell for these tractors, especially for blades, have built in flow control and that is where the higher cost comes in. I was talking with Kennyd about this very thing, the ports on the old cylinder look normal so the flow control has to be built in. You get what you pay for in most cases even if you don't know what you are really getting, as in my case 22 years ago.

 

[picker77]

The speed of the up and down was incredibly fast to say the least. I am down to 1/16 inch orifice fittings in the lines now and it is still mighty fast at 2600 RPMs.

I learned from recent experience that a 1/16" (.063) restrictor, which sounds pretty small, will still let a LOT of fluid through in a hurry. You might try Tractor Supply's .060 restrictor and add a .030 or so bent wire in the hole to take up at least half of the volume. I ended up home brewing a restrictor of about .025 to slow down the tilt cylinder on my TnT, worked great after that. But the flip side is restrictors generate a lot of fluid heat in a circuit that is frequently used. No big deal in my tilt function, which is only used intermittently. In a loader or other application where a lot of repeat strokes is required, heat might be a problem.

 

[J_J]

Why not restrict the lever movement.

Most valves have what is called a feather control, that lets a small amount of fluid flow to give precise control to the attachment.

Speed of cylinder operation is directly related to the GPM's available. The trick is to only let in enough fluid to operate the attachment to your satisfaction. Is the valve matched to the pump flow?

 

[wdchyd]

I am not sure about rebuilding...the piston end threads are gouged up pretty bad....I hit something and overextended the cylinder, ripping out the piston

Something to look out for when troubleshooting this problem is make sure when angled to one side all the way, make sure the collapsed cyl is bottoming out internally rather than the extended cyl being too short of stroke...

If your stroke is too short on the cyls then when angled, the opposing cyl gets mechanically (not hydraulicly) yanked out when you hit something on the opposite side.....Yes/No..?....did I explain this OK?......

Not talking about cushion valve relieving itself (which should be used anyways) but rather mechanically the frame should have stops welded on or the collapsed cyl should bottom out first internally....:thumbsup:

 

[BimmerRacer]

I agree, there should be be some of a stopper on the angling portion to preserve the cylinder in case of the operator error to preserve the cylinder.

I gave up on trying to find a replacement and sent my money to Messicks.

 

[mars1952]

Hi: Go to Surplus Hydraulics and buy a welded cylinder with the correct bore and stroke. You can
cut off the ends if they are not correct and weld on the correct type of end. I recently did this when I upgraded the cylinders on my JD 420 Loader. I posted a two part video of the project on YouTube.

Upgrading John Deere (FEL) Loader Cylinders Part 1

Upgrading John Deere loader cylinders Part 2

The link to the thread is in my signature.
Mars

 

[wdchyd]

I gave up on trying to find a replacement and sent my money to Messicks.

I'm sure you can't go wrong there..!!..:thumbsup: