Box Scraper hauling logs

   / hauling logs #1  

monheganview

New member
Joined
Mar 16, 2010
Messages
7
I know I should just try this out, but the tractor is 300 miles away.
Comments welcome.

I need to cut some Eastern White Pine logs this winter.
A 16 ft log 24 inches in diameter will weigh about 1850 pounds.
I have a Kubota B3030HSDC with a box blade.

Option #1
Back up to the log and chain the end of the log tight to the face of the blade, then lift the log with the 3ph. The other end of the log will be on the ground.
I can put stone in the bucket for counterweight.
If I drive slowly, what do you see as safety issues I should look out for?

When you look at Farmi Winches they have a blade set just aft of the 3ph, maybe 10 inches is my guess. The box blade is probably 16 inches wide so the log will have a bit more leverage, thus taking a bit more weight off the front tires.

I have read many many posts and know pulling from the tow bar is better, but getting the log off the ground is critically important to safety.

Option #2
I suppose a log arch may be the best option, but they cost bucks or I need to borrow one and I try not to borrow tools, as things can break.

Option #3
Chain log to draw bar and lift... folks I have spoken to so far say this is possible but most are not encouraging.

Option #4
Buy a Log Hauler from Union Farm made by Earth and Turf for $325. +/-
Log is closer to 3ph so geometry is better than box blade.

Option #5
Win the lottery and buy a Farmi Winch.

Option #6
Win the lottery and hire the wood cutting and hauling.
 
   / hauling logs #2  
Can always get an old car hood, and strap the front of the log on it and pull from your drawbar. The hood sort of acts like a sled and you are pulling from the safest point.
Good luck
 
   / hauling logs #3  
I'd go with options #5 or #6 they are the most appealing. However if you want the logs this winter you can buy the following items at Union Farm and be out of there after plucking down about $50. It works just fine. Draw bar goes into the lower links of your 3ph and the hook attaches to that. Buy a length of 5/16 or 3/8 chain with a slip hook at the end. Your total investment may be around $70 if you don't have the chain yet.

ps: with the box blade attached you may not be able to raise the end of the log off the ground.
 

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   / hauling logs #4  
I have an older JD855, 24hp, hydro, turfs, and only weighs about a ton.
When I skidded a bunch of timber the last two falls, I used the trailer moving receiver hitch I built to bolt to a 3pt draw bar. I moved timber the size you mentioned with no problem.

I backed up tight to the log, and picked up the end with the chain hooked to the top of the arm the top link hooked to. Once off the ground, I chained the log up close to the draw bar. That is the chain on the top link arm only lifted, and the chain on the draw bar pulled.

There was enough slack in the pulling chain that the log rode a few inches behind the draw bar so turning wasn't a problem. And yes, it was a little more time consuming to do hook ups and unhooks..........

A factory receiver hitch adapter cost something like $200 and up. I think I have less than $40 in my attachment, including paint........

Good luck with that lottery
 
   / hauling logs #5  
Option #6 - cut the log into smaller pieces before moving it.

(Or do you need to keep the whole 16' length?)

That seems to be a lot of weight for a B3030. Don't forget to add in the weight of the box blade.

Ken
 
   / hauling logs #6  
If you lived closer I would let you use my log trailer. I would Chane it tight to the box ,If needed put weight in the bucket.The first few feet will tell you how it will go. KEEP YOUR HAND ON THE 3PT. LEVER! AT FIRST SIGN OF problems DROP IT! Go slow youll do fine. Skidding tears up the place also gets dirt in the bark . So your saw will suffer.
Army Grunt
 

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   / hauling logs #7  
What is the wood going to be used for? Can it be cut smaller? What type of terrain are you working on?
 
   / hauling logs #8  
I would go with option #3 as shown by easygo. The pic below is a way to get more height if you need it using the cross draw bar but it reduces your lift. This is on a L3300 taking out big logs.

Your success is going to depend alot on the terrain you have to negotiate in as 20 20 alluded to. Your tractor is very small and light for those big logs. You will have to be smart and very careful to get it done safely.

It is dangerous work. Be careful and think.
 

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   / hauling logs #9  
I also vote the drawbar on the 3PH in lieu of the boxblade.

The boxblade weighs alot. And lifting 1/2 of the logs weight on top of that and I dont think it will lift at all.

Hooked to a 3PH drawbar I think is going to be the only way you will be able to lift it and move it.
 
   / hauling logs #10  
Can you cut it on the tip to a. Point and drag it with the drawbar. The hood is also a good idea just play dumb when the wife asks where her hood went.
 
   / hauling logs #11  
What is the wood going to be used for? Can it be cut smaller? What type of terrain are you working on?
*********************************************************

Let's hope it's going to be milled into some fine pine lumber.:thumbsup:
 
   / hauling logs #12  
I've had good success scooping and curling up some good sized oak logs with my bucket and toothbar. I can usually push them against another or stump to get under them and curl the bucket enough for them to stay on. If that doesn't work I use a peavy to roll them on to the bucket. The safety caveat is stay low and go slow when moving them. I like this method because I later cut them up for firewood or lumber and I hate dragging them through the dirt if I'm going to use the chainsaw on them later.
 
   / hauling logs #13  
I've had good success scooping and curling up some good sized oak logs with my bucket and toothbar. I can usually push them against another or stump to get under them and curl the bucket enough for them to stay on. If that doesn't work I use a peavy to roll them on to the bucket. The safety caveat is stay low and go slow when moving them. I like this method because I later cut them up for firewood or lumber and I hate dragging them through the dirt if I'm going to use the chainsaw on them later.

I really dont think his B3030 is capable of lifting a 1850lb log with the FEL:confused2:
 
   / hauling logs #14  
Me either; the question was asked earlier if he could buck them into smaller lengths. He stated the weight for a 16'/24" log. He didn't state whether they were all 24" or if they had to stay 16'.
 
   / hauling logs
  • Thread Starter
#15  
thanks all for the suggestions, images and comments...
I will re-read the posts... but here are a few notes.
I have "surveyed" the trees as best I could and at about 5' off the ground level the largest trees are 22 inches... so my initial 24" was for the butt end +/-.
Comments that the B3030 is a smaller tractor are obviously correct, I go to the dealer and look at some of the bigger machines and they do have more weight and steel than what I have, but I am fortunate to have what I have and so am attempting to not trash the machine.... that's why I posted.
The specs say the 3ph will lift 2139 pounds at the lift point and 1300 pounds 24 inches behind the lift point... so these logs at 16 ft. would be very close to maxing out the lift arms with the box blade option... there is better geometry with the log closer to the lift arm pivot points. I have an "old farm" with virtually no buildings left, just old foundations and 15 acres of field and 70 of woods. The pine will be cut to build a shop-barn of a modest size....mostly for sheathing... so YES I can cut the logs shorter... and likely it will be a necessity with my machine... maybe go to a 9 - 11ft log if it is needed.
I guess I am a bit concerned about chaining directly to the 3ph, with the likely shifting of the log pressure. Am I being penny wise and pound foolish with wear and tear on the hydraulics... hauling logs... or are these rear hydraulics VERY strong... seals etc. I am new to tractors with only about 100 hours in the seat since I bought the used tractor, and that was mostly bush hogging....
I hear you all when you say take it slow and you will know in the first 2-3 ft of hauling. Within limits it is reasonably powerful tractor, but beyond limits things happen fast. I will keep my hand on the pto lever for sure.
I will try to haul when the ground is frozen.
 
   / hauling logs #16  
One thing to keep in mind if you're going to skid a log without the box blade on your tractor, please be sure the pulling point is below your rear axle. The factory drawbar is below the axle and is the best place to attach when pulling a heavy load. I know someone that attached the chain higher than the axle and died when the tractor flipped back over. When something like this starts, it happens very quickly, so just a word of caution. Good luck and be safe.
 
   / hauling logs #17  
You are going to run out of traction LONG before you will hurt anything. I have a B-7800 that is the same size as your 3030 and I pulled some pretty large stuff with it while cutting firewood. The problem is not lifting the logs but to have enough traction to pull it.
 
   / hauling logs #18  
Make yourself a log arch! You'll want it a little bigger than mine, but they work great. ~~ grnspot
 

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   / hauling logs #19  
Also be real careful if you are near any slopes or hills, if one starts rolling it could take you with it.
If you cut everything ahead of time and have it all lined up another option would be rent a larger machine for the day and get everything out if the longer lengths with out any concerns on the weight
 
   / hauling logs #20  
Bucket filled with rocks, chain short to the three point drawbar and lift a little. Start out easy and be ready to stop the tractor and lower three point. Chains will really help in the traction department.:thumbsup:
 
 

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