Hardie Board Siding?

   / Hardie Board Siding? #1  

ultrarunner

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Acceptable to go right over wood siding with Hardie Board?

Is a adding a vapor barrier or felt recommended?

60 year old wood siding just doesn’t take paint well in deep snow country and looking for a solution if even just for the weather side.

I’ve never worked with cement fiber boards… only stucco, wood, brick and non asbestos tile siding.
D63EE473-95BB-4B89-A9F5-6A2FED185F66.jpeg
 
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   / Hardie Board Siding? #2  
Hmmm, excellent question, i have never put it directly over old wooden lap siding. The main issue I could see with that is inconsistent surface to nail to. I feel like the angle of the existing lap siding would throw off the lapping of the new hardie. Furring strips might be a good idea in this case. I am sure someone that has done this will be along shortly to chime in. Good luck.
 
   / Hardie Board Siding? #3  
I've done it a few times on older houses with wood lap siding that is similar to what's in the picture.

Hardie's biggest issue is that it's brittle. It needs a wood backing. OSB or plywood is the most common because it's the cheapest, fastest and easiest to install on new construction. Having thicker wood is a plus.

I've read that you should never double your vapor barrier with something between it. Most of that deals with insulation. In my opinion, if there is a vapor barrier under the wood already, it's not significant enough to not install house wrap over the wood siding.

I clean up the existing siding and smooth out any areas that might be sticking out. I want the Hardie to be flat against the wood. I go ever every board to make sure it's tight. A lot of them are installed with finish nails, and they like to work their way out. I remove loose nails and install screws.

I haven't checked the Hardie website lately, so it's something you should do before installing it. They have instructions on how to do it. I use a coil roofing gun with 1 3/4 inch nails that I put in every foot or so. I think Hardie want's them on every stud, but that's almost impossible to do, so I try to hit a stud where I can, but I'm not too worried if I just hit OSB.

The big issue is the nail head must not damage the Hardie. They want it snug, or even almost loose. Setting the depth on the nail gun means it's strong enough for a stud, but then it damages the Hardie if you only hit OSB. In your case, it will be a lot easier to set the depth on the nail gun since it's all solid wood.

Home Depot sells Hardie blades. They have a small one that's cheaper, and a 7 1/4 inch blade that's a lot more money. The big blade lasts forever, but it's impossible to cut straight with. I don't get it, but it's the biggest waste of money ever. I just buy the small blades now. I can do an entire house with a small bade if there isn't a lot of trim. I just use my 18volt Makita cordless saw to cut everything.

Smart Siding looks similar to Hardie when installed. It has a lot of good qualities, and it's a lot easier to install. I use a sealer primer on everything I cut before I install it. For my house, I use Hardie. For clients, I let them decide, or if I'm matching what's already on the house, then that's what I use. The finish look is always the most important for the client, and I'm comfortable with both products being good enough to last and make my clients happy.
 
   / Hardie Board Siding? #4  
Well, we would need more info. Is that old lap siding nailed to a plywood/osb sheathing, or was it nailed to studs? If no sheathing, I would be concerned about just the siding holding the hardi. Hardi is heavy; and generally installed with short nails, although longer are used on the trim.
 
   / Hardie Board Siding? #5  
I use three inch deck screws for Hardie Trim. I tried a framing nail gun, but they never went in all the way and I hated beating them in with a hammer right next to a window.
 
   / Hardie Board Siding?
  • Thread Starter
#6  
The wood siding is nailed direct to studs. No house wrap or foil face insulation.

The 2x4 stud cavity has standard craft faced insulation with the paper side on the interior.

Summer cabin built 1961 and not unusual for snow to be roof height in heavy snow years.

I will need to check for cupping but easy to replace any cupped boards… this is how I know what’s behind the siding.

I’ve done several small additions in the Bay Area where home had cement asbestos siding… the cement asbestos no longer available but used same appearing without asbestos and it nailed directly over the old wood siding… 40 years and my one double coat of paint still excellent.

I’m hoping not to pull off all the old siding and trigger the entire permit process…

A few cabins have aluminum siding but it always appears dented from snow/ice that rolls up against it…

If I scrape, prime and paint after replacing damage boards it will look ok for 3 or 4 years maybe.
 
   / Hardie Board Siding?
  • Thread Starter
#7  
Another view
D6673AF0-4CBB-469A-824B-2E67CC4BD7A5.jpeg
 
   / Hardie Board Siding?
  • Thread Starter
#8  
12x12x24 cement fiber might be my easiest route.

79CC2E71-4E13-408B-93CA-A1ECD459E7D0.jpeg
 
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   / Hardie Board Siding? #9  
12x12x24 cement fiber might be my easiest route.

View attachment 3651622
About 3x more expensive. Paint may last longer, but still intended to be painted, too.

If the siding is dry and in good condition, why wouldnt you install tar paper over it, and then nail on Hardie? The tar paper is to protect the substrate from water penetration.
 
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   / Hardie Board Siding?
  • Thread Starter
#10  
I’ve had really good service from the 12x12x24 tiles I painted once in 1985…

Only downside is replacing 4 at a rent house due to bicycle and garbage can impact but easily done.

They are also lighter in weight…
 

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