Hard start

[sdcarter00]

Have a Cub cadet RZT that refuses turn over, have to remove air filter and spray starting fluid, then it fires right up! What adjustment do I need to make? Thanks

 

[sdcarter00]

Have a Cub cadet RZT that refuses turn over, have to remove air filter and spray starting fluid, then it fires right up! What adjustment do I need to make? Thanks

It has a Kohler Courage 23cc

 

[Dave M7040]

Have a Cub cadet RZT that refuses turn over, have to remove air filter and spray starting fluid, then it fires right up! What adjustment do I need to make? Thanks

Sounds like you have a battery with insufficient CCA, cold cranking amps. Look at labels on battery and post spec's.

The starter is not getting enough power to turn the engine over on the compression stroke. The ether fires faster and pushes the engine past the compression stroke.

Lawn and garden tractor batteries have short lives compared to automotive ones.

If you connect larger battery temporarily (do not use jumper cables) see if it starts.

Newer tractors have flyback diodes everywhere and they are very easy to blow using jumper cables.

Dave M7040

 

[sdcarter00]

Sounds like you have a battery with insufficient CCA, cold cranking amps. Look at labels on battery and post spec's.

The starter is not getting enough power to turn the engine over on the compression stroke. The ether fires faster and pushes the engine past the compression stroke.

Lawn and garden tractor batteries have short lives compared to automotive ones.

If you connect larger battery temporarily (do not use jumper cables) see if it starts.

Newer tractors have flyback diodes everywhere and they are very easy to blow using jumper cables.

Dave M7040

Thanks!

 

[sdcarter00]

Thanks!

CCA 340

 

[sdcarter00]

Sounds like you have a battery with insufficient CCA, cold cranking amps. Look at labels on battery and post spec's.

The starter is not getting enough power to turn the engine over on the compression stroke. The ether fires faster and pushes the engine past the compression stroke.

Lawn and garden tractor batteries have short lives compared to automotive ones.

If you connect larger battery temporarily (do not use jumper cables) see if it starts.

Newer tractors have flyback diodes everywhere and they are very easy to blow using jumper cables.

Dave M7040

340 CCA, battery is about 3 years old

 

[Bob_Bainbridge]

When you say it doesn't turn over, do you mean that the starter won't crank the engine or that it doesn't fire? If it doesn't crank, you have a battery, cable, starter etc. problem. If it cranks but doesn't fire until you spray starting fluid, you have a fuel problem. Perhaps the choke isn't closing, the float level is low in the carb, kinked fuel hose etc.

Bob B.

 

[sdcarter00]

When you say it doesn't turn over, do you mean that the starter won't crank the engine or that it doesn't fire? If it doesn't crank, you have a battery, cable, starter etc. problem. If it cranks but doesn't fire until you spray starting fluid, you have a fuel problem. Perhaps the choke isn't closing, the float level is low in the carb, kinked fuel hose etc.

Bob B.

It cranks, but will not start

 

[andylill515]

It cranks, but will not start

I had the same problem with my RZT50. Took it to my local cub dealer 2 weeks before warranty ran out and they fixed it. Apparently there's one to many holes in the choke plate. (Pollution crap) I believe they brazed it shut and it starts perfect now. They will not fix it if it's under warranty.

 

[Richard001]

If you have this model: Cub Cadet RZT 50 KH

Then here is a link to the engine shop manual:
http://www.kohlerengines.com/engines/onlinecatalog/pdf/32_690_01_EN.pdf

Lots of good info there.

This engine uses a pulse type fuel pump. To check operation, remove the fuel line from the carb, point the line away from the engine and then crank the engine. If pump is working, fuel will come out of the hose end.

sdcarter00 - Welcome to TBN

Richard

 

[esox07]

I know this is old, but I went through this with my Cub Cadet LT1045. I had to crank it for about a minute total, on and off before it would pop off and when it did, it ran great. But on cold start, it always took wayyyy too much cranking. I replaced the battery, fuel filter, fuel pump, and other things trying to figure it out. If I sprayed a bit of gas into the carb and then started it, it would pop right off.
The problem was the fuel cut off solenoid on the bottom of the carburetor bowl. It was toast and block flow to the carb when I turned the key on. I replaced it this morning and after two years of this problem, I have my old lawn tractor back.

The part was $10.50 on amazon.com for aftermarket.

 

[sdcarter00]

Was it hard to replace this part?

 

[esox07]

very easy. Just disconnect red lead wire, then unscrew it from the carb with (I think) 1/2" open end wrench. Put the new one in, reconnect the wires and you are done. The original had just a red 12V+ wire that has an in line connection and the solenoid grounded through the body. The new ones have a 12v+ and 12V- wire. The red 12V+ goes to the same in line connection and the 12V- goes to a ground source. There was one right next to the carb that I used. That's it. Done. Once you get the shroud off so you can access the carb, it is as simple as replacing a spark plug really.

 

[esox07]

Here is the part that I replaced the old solenoid with: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076QBGS9Q/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[sdcarter00]

Now I am having trouble finding the part! Lol

 

[esox07]

sdcarter: Do you mean the new part or the old part still on the mower?

 

[sdcarter00]

The new replacement solenoid, it's a Kohler Courage SV720

 

[esox07]

Chances are good that it would be the same solenoid as I used. I think that one is used on many of the Walbro Carbs.