Harbor Freight Tools that don't suck

   / Harbor Freight Tools that don't suck #7,911  
I've got the Stihl Kombi KM130R with the pole saw attachment and an extension. It works fantastic, but with the extension on it is wickedly heavy. Without the extension it will give you a workout, but is not too heavy. The extension just makes it unwieldy.

One of the great things about the Kombi or the Echo PAS system, is that it breaks down into two pieces (head and attachment), or three pieces with the extension, so you can haul the pieces in the FEL bucket.

I have the same Stihl setup with the graphite extension. Even with the graphite it is unwieldy but manageable.
 
   / Harbor Freight Tools that don't suck #7,912  
I have the same Stihl setup with the graphite extension. Even with the graphite it is unwieldy but manageable.
I have the stihl setup and find it quite heavy...even contemplated mounting it to the FEL...lol
 
   / Harbor Freight Tools that don't suck #7,913  
And dragon - can you run an inverter off your tractor? Leave the generator behind?

I think the tractor would struggle to keep up with the demand. The battery on a tractor is pretty small as well as the alternator. What's the power draw of a corded pole saw? I'm guessing at least 5amps @120v. Rough math says that's 50 amps at 12v. I guess it would depend on tractor size and if you were just cutting an occasional branch or if you had to do lots of trimming. Most likely would require you to have the tractor running at high RPM to get the most out of the alternator so you didn't drain the battery.
Newberry, ya know I didn't think of that and I do have an inverter that might work but... as crazy mentioned, I don't think I really want to tax my tractor battery. Plus, it gives me another good reason to exercise my Honda 3000is generator that I absolutely love.
 
   / Harbor Freight Tools that don't suck #7,914  
With taps and dies lubricant sure helps.
But with taps the proper sized drill bit is a must.
Generally a number size drill bit is what is needed as per the charts and I bet very few that snapped a tap was using the proper bit.

Using a good cutting oil and proper size bit will let U tap the toughest steel with ease.

AND different metals want different lubricants.
 
   / Harbor Freight Tools that don't suck #7,915  
That's 600 watts. I see HF's inverter rated 750 watts continuous/1500 intermittent should be sufficient and is only $40. I think a corded pole chainsaw is practical if you can drive to the trees to be trimmed.

I did the math using the Portland pole saw, 7amp draw. That's 7amps x 120 VAC = 840watts. So you would want a 1000 watt inverter for a little cushion.

You need more than a little cushion if you want the inverter to last. Try double or triple your actual draw.
 
   / Harbor Freight Tools that don't suck #7,916  
I've had the same Craftsman tap and die set for decades and never snapped a tap. This is one sure area where cheap tools can make your life a misery.

Most tap drill charts give a "one size fits all" drill size. I use charts like the two that are attached, that allow you to make a more informed choice about what size hole to drill. The Thredfloer chart shows different drill sizes for different amounts of thread engagement, and the Starrett chart shows continuous drill sizes in relation to fastener sizes.

The other thing is type of tap. In recent years I have shifted to spiral point and spiral flute taps. Both kinds eject the chips out of the hole rather than pack them into the flutes like a common hand tap. These types of tap are made for machine use but work fine by hand as well. The attachment on Types of Tap gives a complete discussion of options to the ordinary hand tap.
 

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   / Harbor Freight Tools that don't suck #7,918  
Related - I just paid $10 for a similar but no longer sold Remington battery pole chainsaw lacking its battery and charger, which I see are NLA. It tested fine off the tractor 12v battery. I'm trying to devise a way to feed it the 18v it wants, probably by hacking an 18v cable out of the flashlight I never use that came with my Ryobi 18 volt kit. This Remington has the same 10 inch Oregon bar and chain as my Ryobi 18v chainsaw, so if I can feed it battery power it should work as well as that chainsaw.[/QUOTE]

18V Remington chainsaw pack on Ebay right now. Interstate Batteries will rebuild it also.
 
   / Harbor Freight Tools that don't suck #7,919  
I just paid $10 for a similar but no longer sold Remington battery pole chainsaw lacking its battery and charger, which I see are NLA. It tested fine off the tractor 12v battery. I'm trying to devise a way to feed it the 18v it wants, probably by hacking an 18v cable out of the flashlight I never use that came with my Ryobi 18 volt kit. This Remington has the same 10 inch Oregon bar and chain as my Ryobi 18v chainsaw, so if I can feed it battery power it should work as well as that chainsaw.
18V Remington chainsaw pack on Ebay right now. Interstate Batteries will rebuild it also.
Thanks. That chainsaw is the same thing I have. He doesn't realize it separates into two pieces to put the extension pole (that I have) between the handgrip and the motor/bar. The silver semicircle on the side is the button to disengage the two components.

The 'chargers' advertised are only wall transformers to feed the battery charger but I don't see a Remington charger listed, so I would still need to locate that. I expect it wouldn't be cheap. $50 for the new Remington NiCad battery listed would duplicate the several Ryobi Li-Ion 18 volt batteries I already have, and I don't have a Remington core for Interstate to rebuild.

In summary I think I'll play with this $10 toy some more before spending any money on it. Likely, put some wires coming out of my Ryobi flashlight to feed the simple battery connectors inside the Remington's handle and run it that way. Maybe carry that battery/flashlight in a fannypack with 2 ft of 8 gauge SOO cable (that I have) feeding the tool.

Doing it right using a NOS NiCad Remington battery and the proper charger would be somewhere north of $80 and I still would have only one NoCad for it instead of the several Li-Ion Ryobi 18v batteries I have on hand. It's a toy, I'm going to tinker with it some more.

Thanks for pointing out the Ebay Remington items. When I looked a month ago I found nothing aside from those wall transformers.
 
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   / Harbor Freight Tools that don't suck #7,920  
Re HF Tap & Die sets:

I see a $10 set 'not for steel or automotive use'. Ok.... .


Then SAE and Metric 40 piece sets for $15. Carbon Steel.
I have HF's older 40 pc equivalent sets and I thought I paid $29 each. My Metric set looks identical to the present version, box and all, but claims only 'alloy steel'. My SAE set is in a blue metal case like the Taiwan imports of a generation ago and the grade of Chinesium isn't specified.

At any rate my HF sets have worked fine for occasional light use. I haven't broken anything. Nearly all use has been chasing rusted nuts or bolts to thread together smoothly and these sets seem adequate for that. I don't think I would try to cut new threads in anything harder than mild steel.

Next step up are HF's $37 and then $85 sets.
 

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