Quick Hitches harbor freight quick hitch

[escavader]

After reading all the old threads on this,i finally ordered one today.[early xmas present]Even if i have to tweek it a little 69.00 is alot cheaper than any other brands ive researched.FIGURED the shipping would be a bear for something that heavy,NOT SO dont have exact amount was something like 7 bucks
I will test this puppy out,gonna get a draw bar and haul wood with the log arch trailer im building.will post
Just wanted to notify you its on saleREGULAR 99.00
plus if you use coupon 271-372-758 you get a 10 dollar gift card.
ALAN

 

[SkunkWerX]

Escavador,

I got the HF model, and it works well. The one downfall was the top-hook.
My Cat 1 attachements have support pieces connecting the A frame, so the hook cannot rise up to catch the top link.

The bottom links work just fine.

For the money, it's hard to beat. I haven't removed it since attaching it.
On the BX machines it also helps with PTO shaft lengths, I didn't have to cut my Rotary cutter or Tiller shafts, since the Quick Hitch addes another approx. 3 " of length.

Good luck with yours, I think you will like it. Check your attachments at the top link, and see if they have any obstructions that will keep the Hook from rising up to grab the link.

 

[allen in texas]

I bought one after reading a very lengthy thread here about them.
I 'almost' wish I hadn't.
I had to modify it as other have had to do in order to make it work.
It was too narrow (26.5 inches) between the lower hooks. It is supposed to be 27 1/4.
After I spread it with a bottle jack, it works ok but it looks a little goofy.
All of the other brands I looked at had the correct spacing but I just gave $64 for mine so I guess I can't complain.

 

[JSharp]

I finally got around to measuring the HF quick hitch I got a couple of months ago. Mine is 26 1/2" across the inside. It fits all my implements with no problem. I have a 7' King Kutter PRB-84 rear blade, a KK carryall, and a 5' Howse mower.

The hitch doesn't just hook up with everything right out of the box and I don't think it can be expected to. I had to do these things -

I got rid of the bolts on the quick hitch top hook and replaced them with pins. I had to clean the hitch holes up with a Dremel first since they were too tight to let the pins through both sides and the hook.

All the implement Cat 1 bottom pins required bushings to take them up to Cat 2 diameter so they'll fit the lower quick hitch hooks properly.

The mower required the HF top link adapter because it's slotted to allow the mower to float.

The KK rear blade requires I hook into the top brace cross bolt instead of the normal top link pin. They must have designed this for quick hitch use since it has adequate clearance below it for the hook to get into the brace and hook the cross bolt. The KK installed bushing even makes the diameter right.

I had to add a bushing to the carryall top link pin to make the diameter larger so it didn't slop on the quick hitch hook.

Other than the Dremel work, I don't think any of these small issues are problems with the HF hitch in particular. I think they're just the issues you run into when converting equipment to use any quick hitch.

Overall I'm really happy with mine. For the $$ spent, it's a deal IMO.

 

[SkunkWerX]

I got rid of the bolts on the quick hitch top hook and replaced them with pins. I had to clean the hitch holes up with a Dremel first since they were too tight to let the pins through both sides and the hook.

JSharp,
I did similar. ditched the bolts, used 1/2" pins, and drilled-thru all holes to make sure the pins slid in and out with ease.

I ditched the top hook altogether. made my own swivelling toplink as seen in an another thread.

For the KK Tiller I had to cut a bit of metal off of the back side of the bottom hooks, since the lower pins on the KK tiller were pretty close to it's frame.

All-in-all it's still much better than fighting the bottom link hook-up.
I may have to change the height on the top link, from attachment to attachment, but at least it's easy to get to. No more horsing with the bottom links.
My hitch/unhitch time and aggravation factor is much lower with the QH.

Like JSharp said, at $64.99 I really can't complain, it's getting the job done.

 

[Northland]

I bought a Speeco quick hitch from TSC and had problems since neither the kingkutter rear blade or the farm force carry-all (which I bought from the same TSC store) where quick hitch compatible.

I returned the Speeco and am currently using a TSC provided quick hitch that looks like this -
TRACTOR QUICK HITCH ALL CAT 1 EZ FORD DEERE KUBOTA - (eBay item 220161251181 end time Oct-26-07 14:22:08 PDT)

it's not very good-even for $30

I am probably going to buy one of these
Welcome to CARTER AND SON'S TOOL AND DIE

 

[Old School]

I bought the ones on ebay that Northland listed and they work OK for a sub compact tractor. I'm going to drill four holes in each, thread the holes and uses bolts to keep them straight will I'm hooking up. The problem I have is my 3 point attachments are different widths.

 

[Northland]

Old School-let me know how that works as not having the hitches straight seems to be my main problem as well. All my implements have different widths as well

 

[Erik_in_Hoyt]

I didn't have any problems with my HFQH being too narrow, but rather too wide. My BB was 28" to the outside flange, so I had to cut those and move them outboard, then weld back on. Then made a couple of longer 7/8" pins.
Next I had to trim the metal in front of the top pin so it would clear the bolts.
Need to find a couple of those HF adapters next for my middle buster and RC mower.
I think it's worth what I gave for it (was on sale for $64, then added my 15% coupon to the deal) especially if it cuts down on the 45 minutes i was spending every time I had swap the BB and mower!

 

[Old School]

Old School-let me know how that works as not having the hitches straight seems to be my main problem as well. All my implements have different widths as well

Here's the issue: when I go to a narrow implement the side bolts need to be readjusted to be able to hook up, undermining the purpose. One bolt from the bottom to keep them straight up and down and let them swivel left to right to accommodate the different widths. The bolt from the bottom also provides enough tension to keep the quick hitch aligned.

Hope that helps.

 

[Tact]

Here's the issue: when I go to a narrow implement the side bolts need to be readjusted to be able to hook up, undermining the purpose. One bolt from the bottom to keep them straight up and down and let them swivel left to right to accommodate the different widths. The bolt from the bottom also provides enough tension to keep the quick hitch aligned.

Hope that helps.

I guess I'm somewhat confused, which is not surprising. Are you saying that the hooks fall forward and down on the arms. Also can you explain more about adjusting for narrower implements? I assume you're referring to keeping the spread on your lift arms to hook up? If that's the issue you can get or make an adjustable rod to keep a certain spread on the arms.
I too was thinking of getting these types of hooks as I have similar problems with my QH.

 

[Northland]

I guess I'm somewhat confused, which is not surprising. Are you saying that the hooks fall forward and down on the arms. Also can you explain more about adjusting for narrower implements? I assume you're referring to keeping the spread on your lift arms to hook up? If that's the issue you can get or make an adjustable rod to keep a certain spread on the arms.
I too was thinking of getting these types of hooks as I have similar problems with my QH.

I need some further help with that too please

 

[okie350]

Can someone post a picture of the "modified top link set-up? I am having a hard time visualizing it. I have the HF hitch and can not use it on any of my impliments because of the top link, and my local HF does not have this adapter nor even a picture of one so I can make one.

Any help would be appreciated.

 

[Old School]

I guess I'm somewhat confused, which is not surprising. Are you saying that the hooks fall forward and down on the arms. Also can you explain more about adjusting for narrower implements? I assume you're referring to keeping the spread on your lift arms to hook up? If that's the issue you can get or make an adjustable rod to keep a certain spread on the arms.
I too was thinking of getting these types of hooks as I have similar problems with my QH.

When you slide the quick hitch on, the quick hitch will tilt down away from the tractor and towards the implement, about 10 degrees. Drill one hole for a bolt in the bottom of the quick hitch, closes to the tractor, to keep the quick hitch from tilting.

Next, the quick hitch needs to swivel left and right, on the end of the 3 point arm, to accommodate the different width of implements. If you install the bolts on the sides toward the back of the quick hitch, like the Pat's system, you will need to adjust the bolts on each quick hitch to adjust for the different width implements. Otherwise the hook on the quick hitch will not want to pick up the implement as can be seen in the pictures.

A simple adjustable tube to hold the lower arms apart at the right distance is all you need to control the spread until your hooked up.

 

[PATG]

Pat's Easy Change has the bolts, shims, and u-bolt to line your quick hitches up to the lift arms. They don't need to be adjusted after the initial installation. They don't move. The receiver that slides over the lift arm is wide enough to accomadate the bend and still aline with the pin. This system is patented because it is unique to Pat's just like the spring loaded latch. We sell the adjustable stabilizer bar for those that don't have built in stabilizers on their lift arms, but if you do all you have to do is back, hook, and click. No loose parts to keep up with. Also, they are US made with US parts and US steel. Just MHOP.

Pat of Pat's Easy Change

 

[Northland]

When you slide the quick hitch on, the quick hitch will tilt down away from the tractor and towards the implement, about 10 degrees. Drill one hole for a bolt in the bottom of the quick hitch, closes to the tractor, to keep the quick hitch from tilting.

Next, the quick hitch needs to swivel left and right, on the end of the 3 point arm, to accommodate the different width of implements. If you install the bolts on the sides toward the back of the quick hitch, like the Pat's system, you will need to adjust the bolts on each quick hitch to adjust for the different width implements. Otherwise the hook on the quick hitch will not want to pick up the implement as can be seen in the pictures.

A simple adjustable tube to hold the lower arms apart at the right distance is all you need to control the spread until your hooked up.

Thanks for the pictures and info. I goofed around with my QH (like yours) last night and attached/detached my rear blade.

On my tractor this QH is of nominal benefit. I may try drilling the holes as you suggested but I think I will give it to my BIL and buy the Pat's or the Carter QH.

 

[Old School]

Thanks for the pictures and info. I goofed around with my QH (like yours) last night and attached/detached my rear blade.

On my tractor this QH is of nominal benefit. I may try drilling the holes as you suggested but I think I will give it to my BIL and buy the Pat's or the Carter QH.

I don't blame you for making the change. The bolt I added at the bottom basically keeps the QH from flopping around when trying to hook up.

PATG said the Pat's system is American made. I don't know if anyone else is noticing but a lot of the "knock off" stuff being imported might cost less but the tolerances aren't as tight, the quality of the nuts, bolts and sheet metal isn't as good, and quite often they aren't designed as well. So really were getting less for less.

 

[ndnparts]

The Carter system comes with a plate that goes inside and keeps the fixture from rotating side to side, which the cheaper cast unit doesn't have. They also sit above the pin rather than behind like the cast units do. The only issue I have had with the Carter system is keeping the lift arms from flopping too close together because of the OEM adjusting links, which isn't a problem in the Carter QH, but rather the adjusting link design. I will be switching to solid adjustable arms instead of the shackle system Kubota supplies, and this should completely resolve the problem. Now I just need to set all of my attachments to the same width......... Stan

I bought a Speeco quick hitch from TSC and had problems since neither the kingkutter rear blade or the farm force carry-all (which I bought from the same TSC store) where quick hitch compatible.

I returned the Speeco and am currently using a TSC provided quick hitch that looks like this -
TRACTOR QUICK HITCH ALL CAT 1 EZ FORD DEERE KUBOTA - (eBay item 220161251181 end time Oct-26-07 14:22:08 PDT)

it's not very good-even for $30

I am probably going to buy one of these
Welcome to CARTER AND SON'S TOOL AND DIE

 

[escavader]

FYI ,I got some pics of a harbor freight quick hitch in my front loader bucket in the BUILD IT YOURSELF section.ENJOY
ALAN

 

[Northland]

The Carter system comes with a plate that goes inside and keeps the fixture from rotating side to side, which the cheaper cast unit doesn't have. They also sit above the pin rather than behind like the cast units do. The only issue I have had with the Carter system is keeping the lift arms from flopping too close together because of the OEM adjusting links, which isn't a problem in the Carter QH, but rather the adjusting link design. I will be switching to solid adjustable arms instead of the shackle system Kubota supplies, and this should completely resolve the problem. Now I just need to set all of my attachments to the same width......... Stan

Stan-thanks for the good review on the Carter QH. I e-mailed Jerome Carter a few times and I like supporting people like him so I am going to buy his unit. That and it's only $105 shipped.

That's a handsome black Dane you got there-I love her big white crest and socks