Had my R4010 three weeks now.

   / Had my R4010 three weeks now.
  • Thread Starter
#41  
Too busy to snap even one picture?

I have come up with a work-around by emailing pics to myself from another computer. If you want to see my log forks and some other stuff, see the, "Show Us Homemade Splitter...," and the, "Log Forks" threads in "Build It Yourself."

BucknSplit_013.jpg


Sawdust stuck in the bar oil. It didn't stay clean for long.

BucknSplit_001.jpg
 
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   / Had my R4010 three weeks now.
  • Thread Starter
#42  
Coming up on 11 weeks on Saturday. I'm averaging over ten hours a week. A new issue has cropped up recently that is probably also due to how long this tractor sat on the lot. It's one I must solve soon, as it's potentially a hazard. The joystick on the loader is sticking in the "raise" position. It started doing that about a week or so back.

It was once in a while at first, but it's every time I raise it now. I mow with the bucket off, but I'm raising the loader over obstacles quite often. While I'm watching where I'm going, expecting to lower the loader after a turn is done, I'll look back and it's high and still going up. Not good!

It might have gotten rain water inside the boot and is sticking because of rust. There is some rust on the outside right around there. It has lived under cover for 10 weeks now, so I'm pretty surprised this has come up. I told the dealer mechanic about it yesterday when I was in town.

Another possibility is a sticking control valve. That would be something I wouldn't be readily able to deal with, and one for the warranty.

I'm going out now to take the boot off and see what I can see.
 
   / Had my R4010 three weeks now. #43  
Correct me if I'm wrong but doesn't LS have a 5 year warranty? Shouldn't this be covered on it?
 
   / Had my R4010 three weeks now.
  • Thread Starter
#44  
Correct me if I'm wrong but doesn't LS have a 5 year warranty? Shouldn't this be covered on it?

If I see it's in my realm of capabilities to look into the problem, I will likely fix something so I can get back to work. I have documented what I found under the joystick boot. I found the rust I suspected, and lots of various metal oxide crudations. I broke out a brand new parts cleaning brush and poured some WD-40 into a pan and scrubbed it out and blew it out with compressed air three times. I scraped some of the more serious rusty places. The lever stopped sticking almost immediately. I think that there was standing water inside the boot when I got it, and it didn't stick until it was almost dried out, beginning a new phase where the sticking became an issue.

I got on the horn with the dealer and told them what I found. I asked if they thought it was cool to just pack a bunch of AmsOil red synthetic grease on everything and put the boot back on. They could see no harm in that (nor could I). I don't expect it will ever be an issue again. If it is, it's documented at 10 weeks.

I got back out there and got my mowing done. Back after my firewood tomorrow.
 
   / Had my R4010 three weeks now. #45  
I appreciate your efforts and being mechanically inclined and I probably would do the same thing. The continuing problems would get me after awhile though especially on a new machine.

B.
 
   / Had my R4010 three weeks now.
  • Thread Starter
#46  
I figure it's the economy's fault that this machine sat on a lot in sea air for a long time in a very rainy year, creating a couple minor problems so far. I got a good deal on it because it was last year's model, so I can't complain too much. I am so happy to have it, as my life here pretty much depends on it. It's doing what I need it to do.
 
   / Had my R4010 three weeks now.
  • Thread Starter
#47  
Here is what I found behind the joystick boot:

Before opening:

joystick_rust_005.jpg


Inside the boot:

joystick_rust_010.jpg


joystick_rust_011.jpg


joystick_rust_012.jpg


joystick_rust_020.jpg


Time to clean it up:

joystick_rust_021.jpg


After three cleanings:

joystick_rust_022.jpg


joystick_rust_024.jpg


After this, I coated/packed it all with top quality grease and put the boot back on. Operation is totally smooth with no sticking. It's still not pretty, but I'll leave it to the dealer's discretion whether they feel good about it or not. I'm not too worried, as the tractor now lives under cover. When the starter was found to be rusty inside, I wanted it replaced, even though I had gotten it working again, as the brush springs were seriously pitted and the potential for failure was high in my opinion. I don't foresee any fatal problems here, but if it dies as a result of this rust, I have it documented.

=============

BTW, is there an quick way to post the thumbnail images that are enlargeable by a click?
 
   / Had my R4010 three weeks now. #48  
And you have the time stamp from this forum to document when you discovered and did the clean-up.
 
   / Had my R4010 three weeks now. #49  
Short Game does you loader lift more and tilt better with the forks than with the bucket forks. I think your tilt problem was due to leverage and the weight being to far out in front of the pivot point of the loader arms. What I found out about mine was that the hydraulic pump only has a 8 gallon per minate flow rate. I was used to my old ford 641 with a external mounted front pump and the flow rate is way more (not sure how much) and the loader on the new tractor isn't as fast as the old one. The new tractor lifts heavy loads but it does have its limits the same as the old ford. Did you old tractor have a hydraulic pump that was shared with the 3pth or did it have an external pump mounted on the front of the engine that was only for the loader? Even if the pump was shared between the two a higher flow rate could be the reason you can't do the same thing. Just some thoughts!
 
   / Had my R4010 three weeks now.
  • Thread Starter
#50  
I had my first opportunity the other day to dig some dirt. I needed only one bucket load of subsoil from a mound of it that I'd placed a few years ago with the Cub Cadet. What I found was far less breakout force with this loader than with my little Cub Cadet. It was pretty discouraging. The only way I was able to fill the bucket was to repeatedly ram the mound until the dirt was broken up and softened enough that the loader could get through it. This is dirt I'd originally dug from the ground, with much less effort. Pretty discouraging indeed.

Yes, for dealing with logs, with four times the leverage over the bucket forks, the log forks are now about equivalent to the bucket forks when they were on the little Cub Cadet. The loader is my biggest disappointment with this otherwise satisfactory tractor. While the physical size of the pumps, steering and loader/3PH, is about double that of the CC, and the relief pressure a few hundred pounds more, what it can do is notably less (with a slightly narrower bucket, a third more weight, and a third more horsepower).

Maybe it's about time I heard from the the big boys at LS (do you suppose this thread would catch their attention?). I admit I'm pretty ignorant, as this is only my second tractor. All I have for a reference is what I got used to. Were the Cub Cadet's loader and hydraulics so much better, or is this one that much worse? It's obviously built strong enough to take more force, but where is that force? Or maybe, as one with limited experience as an operator, it's me. I could be doing it wrong and/or expecting too much. If this had been my first tractor, I would have figured it was normal.

If I could, I would refit this loader with bigger, longer, bucket cylinders and change the roll-back geometry by raising the upper pins a few inches. I'm never in so much of a hurry that I couldn't wait a few seconds longer for the power I'm needing.
 
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   / Had my R4010 three weeks now. #51  
Well mabe you do need to go to LS to get some satisfaction. I have never had any problem with power from my Montana which is the same tractor with green paint. The only problem I have had in 112 hours of use is a seal for the front drive shaft started leaking and was fixed under warrenty, it turned out it was in backwards thats pretty stupid. I have one friend that has problems with his Kabota not being able to lift as much as he thinks it should with the forks but he has less HP and the arms on his FEL have totally different pivot points. Another friend has a Bobcat with the same problem less HP also heck he can't even spin the tires going into a pile of dirt, I can spin all four. Maybe I just haven't tried to lift as much but I dought it I have lifted some real heavy wet clay soil with the buck so full it was pack clay like twice the size of the bucket and no problems at all. Yea somethings got to be wrong contact LS. Is the tractor still under warrenty probable is huna.
 
   / Had my R4010 three weeks now.
  • Thread Starter
#52  
I called the dealer mechanic the other day when I had moved that one bucket of dirt. He recommended using higher revs. Even though I'm in a mowing cycle today, I put the bucket back on and went back to the same dirt pile. I set the RPM at 2,000 and scraped off the tall grass and sod next to where I dug the other day and set it aside for another go at the packed subsoil. It did handle it better at the increased revs, almost as well in fact as the Cub Cadet did at 1.000 RPM.

The bucket's all washed clean and I'm going back to my mowing.
 
   / Had my R4010 three weeks now. #53  
I'm glad that it worked at the higher RPM for you. I'd bet the cub had a higher GPM pump on it than the LS. It would make sence if it did, that LS would work better at a higher RPM with a lower GPM pump to.

Just for reference you should look up the model of the cub and see if there is a GPM rating for the pump, and let us know. Now I am currious!
 
   / Had my R4010 three weeks now. #54  
I am curious as to what your cub pump rating is as well.. I know my LS 5020 doesnt have as many GPM as my old front mount pump ford tractor did but the LS still digs fairly good. My issue with the ford wasnt with hydrolic power but that it was 2wd and without a mac truck on the 3pt hitch it would just spin..I do keep my LS at roughly 1800 RPM and use the foot throttle as i am scraping/entering dirt pile..My ground is fairly sandy which probably makes a huge difference in how well it seems to dig..
 
   / Had my R4010 three weeks now.
  • Thread Starter
#55  
2010 LS R4010 gear -- 41HP 4WD

Implement pump -- 8.2 GPM
Steering pump -- 4.1 GPM
Maximum system pressure -- 2422 psi

==========================

1996 Cub Cadet 7274 gear -- 27HP 4WD (Everything except the loader is 100% Mitsubishi -- same tractor as 1991 Case IH 1140 -- also the same as the 2010 Mahindra 2816 which has a newer 28HP engine design)


Implement pump 7.3 GPM
Steering pump 3.3 GPM
Maximum system pressure -- 2133 psi

==========================

I checked your Montana and the GPM is the same as my R4010 for both pumps and your max pressure only slightly higher.

==========================

I measured cylinders and such on the CC's loader and found the measurements were in inches, not metric like the LS. I'm pretty sure it was built in the US. It's looking like the Cub Cadet 417 loader is the same as the Woods 165.
 
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   / Had my R4010 three weeks now.
  • Thread Starter
#56  
Twelve weeks in and started the day at 150.4 hours. Grease gun day again already. Just finished this week's 40 mile mow and will be going out to put the log splitter back on after lunch. Another three or four cords in the sheds and I can start chipping the brush between mows. It's a little late to still be doing firewood, but that's where I'm at this year. Our annual disc golf tournament, The FernBurner, is coming up in three weeks, and that usually means lots of my time will be diverted. This has been a busy year.
 
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   / Had my R4010 three weeks now.
  • Thread Starter
#57  
Just finishing up my own woodshed yesterday when all the work caught up with me. With only a little wood left to stack, I lost the grip in my right hand. I got extreme pain in my right wrist when trying to hold a split piece of wood. I'm guessing it's repeated motion syndrome or carpel tunnel syndrome. I've had something like this before in my left wrist from pulling a motorcycle clutch on a long trip. I still have two of my neighbors' sheds to finish and I need to work on them. Does anyone know anything about how to get over this fast?
 
   / Had my R4010 three weeks now.
  • Thread Starter
#58  
Darned if I don't hate to bring it up, but yesterday I found another shortcoming of my loader, compared to my old Cub Cadet's, that is. (Looks like all I do is *****.) I brought home my first keg of IPA since I getting the R4010 and I went to set it up on my deck so I could hand truck it to the fridge. The loader doesn't go high enough to set the keg up there. With the CC's loader, I had to be careful of going too high, as I slip the keg in under a table that doubles as the deck railing. I had to bend over under the table and horse the keg up the last two inches from a tipped back bucket. The CC's bucket would be flat on the deck and I'd just slide the keg straight onto the hand truck. With the LS's bucket flat, level, and fully raised, it is 10 inches below the top of the deck. This was a shock to me with this bigger, taller, tractor. Looking at the loader, I see it could have been made to raise the booms higher with only longer boom cylinders. This, for my needs, is coming up short yet again.

I want to have two tractors, so I truly hope I can eventually get the Cub going again. I would like to have it for all my low HP and RPM needs, like the buzz saw, cement mixer, and splitter. For these, the low fuel consumption of the 27 HP K3M Mitsubishi is missed. For mowing, the LS is great, with the bigger wheels and suspension seat. Worth every drop of fuel for the better ride. I know it's going to be great for running the chipper. With my log forks, it's the thing for moving and bucking logs. It's not all bad. I'm just used to a different loader and didn't expect these issues.
 
   / Had my R4010 three weeks now.
  • Thread Starter
#59  
In less than a year, it's that time. 300 hours. Had the oil and filter already. Some nice synth and a NAPA Gold. Will have to grab the hyd and fuel filters next trip to town.

300_hour_service_001.jpg


300_hour_service_002.jpg
 
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