GT2550 Minor Mods / Toolbox

[GRB]

Evening Gents,
In an earlier post I mentioned I had added a Drainzit oil drain valve to alleviate the PITA factory oil drain valve. Someone asked for a pic so I thought I would post a couple of pics of my 2005 GT2550 with some minor add-ons. They are; a tube bumper I found at my dealer in his "barn" in the back of the store, a drainzit oil drain valve, a switch for the lights, and a toolbox I picked up at TSC. Last pic is my college student son.

 

[Northstar]

Really like that Drainzit setup, I'll have to look into adding one. I have only changed oil once but my fingers are to big to deal with the present setup. Nice Job.

 

[TractorLarry]

I like the toolkit.

Interestingly, that drain kit is what my 1864 came with from the factory back in 1995.

-Larry

 

[JSharp]

I like that Drainzit setup too. I think I need one...

I notice you added an oil cooler to the Kohler. Given what some of us have seen lately for temperatures, I think that was a good idea...

 

[GRB]

Thanks guys. The drainzit is slick as grass through a goose. No more oil spills when changing the oil. Best $20 I have spent. The toolbox, some angle iron and nuts / bolts were about $25 all in.

JSharp, actually the oil cooler was factory installed. The placement is pretty slick. They cut a place out of the shroud so the flywheel forces air through it. You have to pull it once in a while to clean the back side where the air forces grass debris to get stuck.

 

[Rocko]

Nice mods.

 

[JSharp]

Thanks guys. The drainzit is slick as grass through a goose. No more oil spills when changing the oil. Best $20 I have spent. The toolbox, some angle iron and nuts / bolts were about $25 all in.

JSharp, actually the oil cooler was factory installed. The placement is pretty slick. They cut a place out of the shroud so the flywheel forces air through it. You have to pull it once in a while to clean the back side where the air forces grass debris to get stuck.

I"m farmiliar with the cooler. I bought a Kohler kit and put the same cooler on my 2554. It's a nice clean setup. Seems like the Cub cost savings program that gave us the new deforming plastic hoods also eliminated the IMO necessary oil cooler...

 

[GRB]

Wow, so the new models do not have the oil cooler? Why would they do that? No, don't answer that, I know why. That is what happens when the bean counters get to run the company. The oil cooler was a selling point that helped sell me the tractor when I bought it. As hot as these engines run (as shown in another thread) I am surprised that Cub would eliminate the oil cooler. Glad mine has it.

 

[jay25rs]

Here's an alternative to making oil easy to drain.

Fumoto valve. I have one on my car too. Fantastically easy to change the oil. Now I need to order an oil cooler kit. I like that idea.

 

[pearlmanz]

Hey GRB, where did you get that kit, I have an 2006 GT2542 and it comes with a clear plastic hose which I am thinking is used for helping with the oil change? Not sure if that is what it is for? Please advise and thank you, The PMZ

 

[pearlmanz]

How much is it for that oil cooler kit and will it fit my 20hp Kolher GT2542. Thank you, The PMZ

 

[GRB]

Pearlmanz, here is the link.

Amazon.com: Hose, 3/8IN Port Oil Drain: Automotive

It is the 3/8" size. I also used a brass 3" nipple and a brass elbow (both 3/8" and bought at the local hardware). It should fit your 2542tractor. It is a bit of a pain to install. You will have to loosen the four bolts that hold the engine to the frame rails then pry or wedge the engine up off of the frame to get enough clearance to get the old valve off and put the drainzit valve on.

 

[JSharp]

pearlmanz you're right, that clear plastic hose that came with your tractor is for changing the oil. It slips over the end of the Kohler oil valve. I added a plastic tee to mine so I don't have to bend it around. The Kohler valve still sucks though. The drainzit setup looks much nicer.

Here's the link to the oil cooler you can see on the side of the engine in one of the photos -

KOHLER ENGINE PART 24 755 120-S - KIT, OIL COOLER - KH-24755120-S - KOHLER_ENGINE

An item Cub deleted on the later models but really shouldn't have...

 

[Morkai]

I will be adding that Drainzit setup on the next oil change myself.

GRB, looks great man, like the toolbox idea. My next project for the rear is an electric 3-pt hitch.

JSharp, how hard was the install for the oil cooler? Did you have to modify anything, such as cutting a vent hole in the bulkhead? I definitely want to add one to my 2005 GT2544, I guess if I'd shelled out the extra cash for the 2550 like I wanted, I would have one.

I looked at the parts diagram for the 2550 online and compared to mine and the only difference I can find is the oil cooler kit, the bulkhead and everything appear the same part.

I can't complain much though, the only problem I've had with mine has been the steering. Other than the fact it's had a lot of play since new, the steering shaft bushing is worn out. I finished it off the other day playing with my custom made loader. (POP! POP! the sound of pinion gears slipping) So I'm waiting on the final parts to rebuild that now.

 

[JSharp]

The oil cooler isn't a difficult install but for 2 things. You need to cut a rectangle out of the plastic shroud. Not a big deal really if you have a Dremel tool. But you also need to make square holes for the cooler mounting fasteners in the shroud and in the metal shroud mounting bulkhead. They give you a new metal bulkhead with the kit but it requires flywheel removal to install. So I just drilled the holes for the fasteners then made them square with a small file.

The rest is easy. Remove the oil filter and filter mounting stud, mount the sandwich adapter and cooler, then reinstall the oil filter. You also have to replace another small metal shroud part around the left cylinder but they give you that part in the kit.

Looking at these oil temps as some of us have, the cooler is a worthwhile investment IMO. And there's only one reason Cub deleted it on the later 2500 models. $$$ of course...

 

[Morkai]

Oh, ok. The hole is in the blower housing. I looked it back up on the parts lookup online and see the difference in parts for the 2544 and 2550 blower housings. Too bad I can't just buy the housing for the 2550. The hole doesn't go right where the engine label is does it?

Well, all the parts are in to rebuild my steering housing. Too bad it's been 100F today. I also found out for sure what yellow paint matches, 759-3940 spray can at your dealer.

 

[JSharp]

You can get the shroud from Kohler, but you'd need to pull the driveshaft to install it. The cooler does mount where the label is on some engines but it wasn't there on mine. And, they even give you a new label in the kit that you can fill out and put on the shroud where needed.

If you download the service manual from Kohler you can see an engine with it installed.

On the 3 point hitch you mentioned earlier, I'm thinking of buying one of these and making some brackets to mount it on my tractor -

Kolpin Powersports

A cat 0 3 point would be much more useful than a sleeve hitch IMO.

I tried to get a real paint code today from the dealer so I could buy some real automotive paint for a blade. No dice, all they have is the Cub part number...

 

[JSharp]

Morkai - Thanks for the paint part number. The part number listed on Cub's site is wrong. If you want the paint in bulk, 759-3945 is the part number for the same yellow in a quart can.

 

[Morkai]

NP, I know for sure that is the right paint for my 05, I messaged CS at cub. On the spray it has yellow-99, which I'm pretty sure means 1999 and up models now. I wanted to paint my homemade bumper/brushguard to match.

Yeah, looks like it'll go right where my label is, I guess I could cut that out and save it as well. The service manual and the owners manual from Kohler both show it, in addition to the side mount cooler. That looks easier to install but less efficient to me. It would be neat to install an oil temp gauge to see just how much difference it makes. I noticed that Kohler makes a tiny tach you can buy for about $40 too.

That hitch probably wouldn't be difficult to adapt, but seems pricey. I think for that money I'd rather build my own. That's pretty much what I did with the loader. I saw the JB online and thought that was pretty darn neat, but couldn't afford the price tag, so I figured I could build my own for less and have fun doing it. Plus it was a good first project for my new MIG at the time. I also built mine a LOT more heavy duty, hopefully it'll be able to dig.

That possibly helped add to the strain on my steering, having a couple hundred extra pounds on the front end. I think there was a design flaw in the pre-06 steering though. I noticed when putting a bind on it that the whole plate that the housing is mounted to was flexing near the engine side. There appears to be no bolts or welds holding it fixed to the frame on the bottom. I also just noticed a 1" stress crack in the housing after cleaning it last night, right in front of the steering shaft bearing. I'm going to try welding that and either riveting or welding the plate that it mounts to, to firm it up. We'll see...

 

[JSharp]

I agree the Kolpin hitch is pricey but it looks first rate and I have seen them for $675 on the net. They also make a cheaper model with more stamped parts that can be had for around $500. Those numbers aren't out of line when you compare them to the Johnny products sleeve hitch for over $500 or the almost $900 Cub factory sleeve hitch.

I can fabricate here too, have assorted welders, a drill press, a cutoff saw, etc. My problem is always locating small quantities of steel in the shapes and sizes I want to use. Things often send up looking like I made them out of scrap because I can't get the steel I really want without buying way too much of it.

IMO the front end on the 2500 looks a little light for any kind of FEL. Not so much the axle and hubs but the steering mechanism. I know they changed the mechanism on the '06 models. You might try comparing yours to a later model to see if the parts are any more heavy duty. If so maybe they could be adapted to solve some of your problems...