Grapples, remotes and snow blowers...

[buyerjohn]

Ok - I've picked the machine I'm going to buy but not the dealer yet...narrowed it to 2 - my local dealer isn't interested in my business at competitive prices...

FYI, Wallace has been great with helping me on many pricing and newbie info items..

Here's where i stand:

CK30HST
Woods 1012 loader
Woods 80X hoe with thumb
Quick Attach
Canopy
Grill Guard
Woods 60" Brush Bull (clutch type)
Woods 72" Back Blade
Woods Landscape Rake 72 inch or 84 inch

So here are my dilemmas/questions...

Question #1

I like the Millonzi grapple and have a price of $1,749 for the 66 LD version. I don't know if that includes the diverter valve or not ( I should but I don't). Here's what I don't understand...when you add a second set of hydraulic outlets at the rear (called remotes??), you need to run hoses to the front to control the grapple open and close function...so far so good, but what do you use in your right hand to actually tell the grapple to open and close? a trigger on the loader stick?

Also, if you put a diverter valve in to control the grapple from the loader hydraulics - this disables the bucket curl function while the grapple opens and closes, correct?

So there seem to be 3 options to control the grapple:

a. unplug the hoe and run the new lines from the rear to the grapple. Control the grapple open/close via some sort of control by the loader joystick (cost is about $475)
b. add a second set of remotes at the rear and run the new lines to the grapple and control the grapple somehow at the loader joystick (cost is about $900)
c. add a diverter valve on the loader cross beam and alternate loader curl/grapple open/close (cost is $675)

I think that's right anyway! Which of the 3 options would you prefer and why??? Do these costs seem reasonable? Would they change substantially if i did it myself (i'm not interested in saving 30%!)...


Question #2.

I want to move snow this winter (which feels like it's arrived already) so I have 4 choices with the tractor that i can see:

a. plow (about $2,500?) on the front of the tractor but remove loader - this leaves the rear pto for a sand spreader
b. rear mounted blower ($2,300) and back up to blow...yuck...just how miserable is this for a one mile long road/driveway? Only bad when the wind blows?
c. rear mounted but front facing blower (Erskine)...don't know cost yet but looks like it could be a solution.
d. frount mounted Erskine ($5,100) powered off rear PTO...expensive but gets great reviews.

since all of the blower solutions use the rear pto, what could i do to run a sand spreader? i assume that they make a rear pto driven sand spreader but that goes out the window with a snow blower...ideas? JD and NH make front and mid pto blowers...but i don't know of any for the kioti frame...

Question #3

Should i get the 72 inch or 84 inch landscape rake...i'm more concerned with tight fit than covering large areas all at once ... anybody see any reason not to buy the 72 inch one? wheels needed???

any help is appreciated...thanks, John.

 

[Ductape]

John,
Yes, using a diverter from your curl function will cause you to lose the curl when using the grapple. However, with a few hours of practice, switching back and forth will be seamless. Like raising the bucket and curling at the same time going into a pile..... soon enough it will be a natuural reaction and you won't even have to think about it. This is the way i would go. Though you may want to think about an extra set of remotes in the rear anyway. you will always find a use for more of them, such as a hydraulically angled york rake or grader blade, dump wagon, etc.

As far as your snow removal...... putting a plow on the front would be a quick way to go. I personally like the blade mounted to the loader, so you can push piles up nice and high (better for snow forts !). I have a rear mounted blower myself. I'd say it'll be a pain looking over your shoulder for a mile, but on the other hand.... you can leave the loader on for pushing piles back or whatever. I too have heard great things about the Erskines.... but they are big cake, and you are correct.... they use up both ends of your tractor.

There are people who use fertilizer spreaders (pto type) to spread sand or chemicals, but obviously this wouldn't work for you if something else is already using the PTO, such as a snowblower. There are plenty of 12v spreaders out there though.... such as the ones designed to mount to the rear of an ATV. A simple switch and two prong plug so it can be unplugged when you remove it from the tractor. With a little creativity this could be used WITH another implement using the PTO.

I'd say get the 72" rake if space is a concern. Just make sure that it is wide enough to cover your tracks when it is angled. Get the guage wheels..... they will make your life easier !

 

[MadReferee]

Question #1

I like the Millonzi grapple and have a price of $1,749 for the 66 LD version. I don't know if that includes the diverter valve or not ( I should but I don't). Here's what I don't understand...when you add a second set of hydraulic outlets at the rear (called remotes??), you need to run hoses to the front to control the grapple open and close function...so far so good, but what do you use in your right hand to actually tell the grapple to open and close? a trigger on the loader stick?

In the case of remotes you would use the fender mounted lever that controls the remotes. This means taking your hand off of the joystick to operate the grapple.

Also, if you put a diverter valve in to control the grapple from the loader hydraulics - this disables the bucket curl function while the grapple opens and closes, correct?

Yes

So there seem to be 3 options to control the grapple:

a. unplug the hoe and run the new lines from the rear to the grapple. Control the grapple open/close via some sort of control by the loader joystick (cost is about $475)
b. add a second set of remotes at the rear and run the new lines to the grapple and control the grapple somehow at the loader joystick (cost is about $900)
c. add a diverter valve on the loader cross beam and alternate loader curl/grapple open/close (cost is $675)

I think that's right anyway! Which of the 3 options would you prefer and why??? Do these costs seem reasonable? Would they change substantially if i did it myself (i'm not interested in saving 30%!)...

Does your backhoe run off of the first set of remotes or from a power beyond kit? It does make a difference in your grapple connection options. I am going to assume your backhoe is connected using a power beyond kit. This means you have NO rear remotes that are operated via a fender mounted lever.

This being the case, I would opt for either a diverter mounted on the loader arm (cost around $250-$300 installed by you) or an electric/hydraulic solenoid valve connected in series with the loader valve (like the WR Long setup. Cost is $550 installed by you). Both of these options would control the grapple using a joystick mounted switch. There have been several recent posts describing this. The difference between the diverter and e/h valve is that the e/h valve will allow you to use both loader functions while operating the grapple.

 

[LarryRB]

On my tractor type, I can't have any snowblowers, However, We have a 1600 ft gravel/rock driveway,. Being that you will have a third valve on the FEL anyway, I have a Diamond 7 1/2 power angle plow,, Costs in No. Brookfield MA is around 1800 for the plow with skid steer quick attach. The plow does an awesome job and is easy to stack out of the way...

 

[bearhawk]

I would swap the canopy for a sims cab. Sims Cab Depot but be sure it fits with the woods loader.

A mile driveway forward or back in the winter would not be fun. Might as well just get a used plow truck. Then use the tractor to push the banks back.

Good luck

Jim

 

[buyerjohn]

I'm still confused...Ductape said:

<<<you may want to think about an extra set of remotes in the rear anyway. you will always find a use for more of them, such as a hydraulically angled york rake or grader blade, dump wagon, etc.>>>

I'm assuming that the ck30 comes with no remotes in the rear, correct? If so, the backhoe is plumbed with either a power beyond kit or plugged into the first set of remotes that would be newly installed. If there is a set of remotes installed, then when the backhoe is removed, aren't those remotes available for another 3 point implement? Why would i need "an extra set of remotes" as ductape says? and not just use the set freed up by the backhoe?

Do all rear remotes have controls for them installed elsewhere? ie. on the fender? If so, how does the backhoe use those rear remotes yet still control the backhoe hydraulics with the backhoe controls? Do the "remote controls" simply remain as part of the circuit but are unused? That would seem a bit dangerous to me if they are accidentally moved while an operator is on the backhow .. i'm probably missing something though!

It sounds like the diverter valve is the best solution for the grapple ...this would also work well if i wanted to use a plow on the tractor. The solenoid valve option would be the best way to implement. I don't want to take my hand off the joystick to operate the grapple.

So really the only question left is whether i need a set of rear remotes and it sounds like i do..if the remotes are not factory standard, what does the control for them look like on the fender? Do you say remotes (plural) because there would be 2 lines to plug into meaning that you could not only angle a rear blade but also tilt it forward and back? Also, most of the rakes and blades i've seen (woods) appear to be manually adjusted...do you just remove pins and let the remote hydraulics hold the blade in position? or do i need to look at another manufacturer?

It really seems that a tractor isn't really the best (meaning most comfortable and/or flexible) way to move snow and that an old truck with a plow may be a better solution.

good tip on sims, i'll look at them...

 

[Dmace]

I have a CK20 with the Sims cab and a rear mount 60" snowblower. My driveway is about 400' long and a hill with large areas in front and side of my house. Looking back is not a problem at all. I can sit sideways in the seat comfortably which leads to barely turning your head to look back. Having the position control 3pt hitch makes for great small adjustments on the go if you are digging too deep or not deep enough. A plowed driveway looks messy and leaves huge banks all around. MY driveway always as a very nice straight cut edge and the snow is spread throughout the yard. This also makes for faster melting and water dispursement in the spring. Less mud and flooding. The cab with heat is great. In below 0 temps, I can be out in the tractor in just a sweatshirt and stay plenty warm. The window wipers come in handy, both front and rear.

One big factor is gas. At $3/ gallon you will waste a good $10-$15 or more of gas each storm plowing with a truck. $15 of diesel gets me through 4-5 large storms at about 2-2.5 hours each storm.

As far as sanding, I am going to take an electric hopper-type sander (as shown) and strap it to the front end loader that will be plugged into a 12v power supply from the tractor. This way I can sand as I snowblow. EarthWay ATV 12 Volt Broadcast Spreader &#151; 100-Lb. Capacity, Model# M30 | Salt Spreaders | Northern Tool + Equipment

Good Luck with the tractor purchase.

 

[shvl73]

The problem with an old plow truck is, something is always breaking. Rust is a concern on some thing that sets most of the year. If you plow with a newer truck that would mean increased wear on an expensive vehicle. I think a tractor is great for moving snow. On mine, I've got a 3pt mounted blower, works great. I don't need a cab, my drive way is only 600' but, every year I blow a path around our field to walk the dogs, many times the length of the driveway. The big difference is, I can choose when to do the field, the driveway is a priority. If I truly had over 5000' feet of driveway, I might feel differently.

 

[IslandTractor]

I'm still confused...Ductape said:

I'm assuming that the ck30 comes with no remotes in the rear, correct?
quote]

Correct.

If so, the backhoe is plumbed with either a power beyond kit or plugged into the first set of remotes that would be newly installed. If there is a set of remotes installed, then when the backhoe is removed, aren't those remotes available for another 3 point implement?
quote]

Yes

Why would i need "an extra set of remotes" as ductape says? and not just use the set freed up by the backhoe?
quote]

You don't unless you want to use the grapple while the backhoe is still active or just don't want to switch the lines over.

Do all rear remotes have controls for them installed elsewhere? ie. on the fender? If so, how does the backhoe use those rear remotes yet still control the backhoe hydraulics with the backhoe controls?
quote]

Yes, the rear remote lever on the fender is set in the forward position and left there when using the backhoe. When using the grapple you would leave the rear remote lever in the neutral position and move it either forward (open) or back (close) for the grapple. If you reverse the lines then the functions are reversed.

It sounds like the diverter valve is the best solution for the grapple ...
quote]

Not if you already have rear remotes. Cost of plumbing the hydraulic lines to from rear remotes to the grapple are trivial compared with adding a diverter valve.

So really the only question left is whether i need a set of rear remotes and it sounds like i do..if the remotes are not factory standard, what does the control for them look like on the fender?
quote]

Yellow lever on right fender inside of the position control lever. Easily reachable just by moving your hand off the FEL joystick and sliding to the right about 8 inches. No need to look after the first hour or so of use, you get quite used to it.

It sounds to me like you will need one set of rear remotes anyway so why don't you just try that option for controlling the grapple. You can always add a diverter valve but I don't think you'll find it necessary for grapple use. Grapples are generally open or closed. Not much finesse about that part of the operation so a simple lever should be fine. That is the set up I have and I am glad I did not waste time and money and hassle on a diverter valve.

 

[buyerjohn]

thanks island for all the answers but i'm not quite there yet...

my understanding is that a "set" of remotes means 2 connection outlets for the backhoe hydraulics, right? What is the difference between "remotes" and a "power beyond" kit?

Also, the two sets of hydro lines that control backhoe extension and bucket curl take either 2 controls (bidirectional) to control those lines or one control that can move in four directions (like the loader joystick), correct?

If the above is true, and you add a set of remotes to control a backhoe, why is there only one bi-directional lever on the fender when there are two lines to control? Is one line just left "uncontrolled"?

Why wouldn't there be two controls or at least one control that moves in four directions to control both hydraulic lines? Also, if there is only one bi-directional control on the fender, how would you control a rear blade with both tilt and left/right movement? See my prior question on which blades operate that way, do woods RB-72 for example?

Given all that, I agree that a fender bi-directional control is probably fine for the grapple open/close function.

thanks, John.

 

[MadReferee]

my understanding is that a "set" of remotes means 2 connection outlets for the backhoe hydraulics, right? What is the difference between "remotes" and a "power beyond" kit?

A set of remotes is a pair of work ports from an aux valve that is controlled by a fender mounted lever. A power beyond kit adds two connections that break the hydraulic circuit so that you can connect another aux valve(s) in series with the circuit. When not in use the pb connectors usually must be connected together to complete the series circuit.

Also, the two sets of hydro lines that control backhoe extension and bucket curl take either 2 controls (bidirectional) to control those lines or one control that can move in four directions (like the loader joystick), correct?

It really depends on how the linkage is setup. You have one spool for each function. A joystick usually controls two spools so that means instead of 2 levers, one for each spool/function, you have a joystick that controls 2 functions.

If the above is true, and you add a set of remotes to control a backhoe, why is there only one bi-directional lever on the fender when there are two lines to control? Is one line just left "uncontrolled"?

A set of remotes controls only one function. Depending on the setting of the lever, one connection is the inlet and the other is the outlet.

Why wouldn't there be two controls or at least one control that moves in four directions to control both hydraulic lines? Also, if there is only one bi-directional control on the fender, how would you control a rear blade with both tilt and left/right movement? See my prior question on which blades operate that way, do woods RB-72 for example?

You can't control two functions with a single set of remotes. Two distinct functions requires 2 spools from a valve, thus 2 sets of remotes. Your scenerio requires 2 remotes whether you have a joystick to control them or not. Depending on the direction of the control lever, one connector is the inlet and the other is the outlet.

Given all that, I agree that a fender bi-directional control is probably fine for the grapple open/close function.

I think you will find that operation of the grapple from a fender mounted remote will be difficult and cumbersome to operate. You will not be able to operate the loader joystick and the grapple together since you have to remove you hand from the loader joystick to use the grapple.

The 2 least expensive and easiest to use routes for a grapple are a diverter, followed by the electric/hydraulic solenoid valve, even if you have remotes. You can always use the remotes for things like a hydraulic top link or to control a cylinder on an implement. Using remotes to control a grapple with hoses running from the rear of the tractor to the front of the loader is, in my opinion, the Rube Goldberg way. Not a very clean installation.

Finally, I think you are still a little bit confused as to what a remote really is and how it works. I hoped the above clears it up.

 

[buyerjohn]

thanks ref for the input and clarity...let's see if i have it now!

A hydraulic loop can power one function unless that loop is tapped into with a valve which will create a second loop off the original loop. A lever controls one loop, a joystick can control two.

A set of remotes (a pair) provides the connection points for one inlet and one outlet of a single hydro loop therefore controlling one function.

So, how is a hoe typically plumbed? Does the hoe take it's hydro power off one loop and then split that into two loops (by adding a valve?) so that it can power the hoes' 2 different functions? Why wouldn't a hoe always be plumbed via a pair of remotes so that when it's disconnected, the available loop can be used by another implement? cost?

I think a big part of my confusion was (assuming that I now understand!) created by the use of the term "remotes" ...so what are the remotes (as in plural)? The 2 physical connections, one for inlet and one for outlet in the same loop? Are these similar to air hose connections on a compressor except they are fluid filled?

 

[IslandTractor]

my understanding is that a "set" of remotes means 2 connection outlets for the backhoe hydraulics, right? What is the difference between "remotes" and a "power beyond" kit? .

BuyerJohn, I understand your confusion. I had no idea I even had rear remotes until someone (?highbeam) pointed out that's what my little yellow lever was controlling. Remotes are separate controlable hydraulic outlets (always a pair so if someone says two remotes they mean 4 connections/line for two separate functions). A Power beyond connection is simply tapping into the hydraulic system and it is always either on or off. The powerbeyond on a ck30 is somewhere under the tractor and difficult to get at without being on the ground. Rear remotes are generally right next to the top link or other convenient spot. For purposes of a BH there is zero functional difference between power beyond and rear remotes....the rear remotes shine in other ways, like operating a grapple or blade or box blade...things you cannot do with power beyond. A backhoe can use either because power to the backhoe is always "on"...you control the backhoe with controls on the backhoe but hydraulic power is always on and you don't control any backhoe function from the regular tractor controls. With powerbeyond you simply set the powerbeyond to on. With rear remotes you take the switch out of neutral and put it into either the A or B position. (A or B may sound confusing but really you would always put it into the A position...if you put it in the B position the BH will work fine but the controls will be reversed). While you could in theory give the BH partial power by feathering the rear remote lever in practice you just put it into the on position. Thus once you connect the BH to the rear remote (both hoses) you set the remote control lever to engaged A position and that's it...all other controls are on the BH itself and you don't touch the rear remote lever again.

Also, the two sets of hydro lines that control backhoe extension and bucket curl take either 2 controls (bidirectional) to control those lines or one control that can move in four directions (like the loader joystick), correct?

If the above is true, and you add a set of remotes to control a backhoe, why is there only one bi-directional lever on the fender when there are two lines to control? Is one line just left "uncontrolled"? .

As noted above, the two lines from the rear remotes simply provide power to the BH. All BH controls are actually on the BH itself. You simply move the "bidirectional lever" to either the A or B position. So long as it is not in the neutral (off) position the BH is getting juice. Of course in practice you'd always put it in the A position as if you put the lever in the B position the BH controls would work but would be reversed.

Why wouldn't there be two controls or at least one control that moves in four directions to control both hydraulic lines? Also, if there is only one bi-directional control on the fender, how would you control a rear blade with both tilt and left/right movement? See my prior question on which blades operate that way, do woods RB-72 for example?

I think most of this should be clear from the other answers above but you are correct that to control TWO sets of rear remotes you would need two levers. One to control tilt and one for the other for left/right movement. Each rear remote has its own control lever with bidirectional and neutral positions.

Photo #1 shows yellow rear remote control lever on fender inboard of black position control lever. Photo #2 shows rear remotes with two hydraulic lines attached that are looping up and then down below the tractor...these are the lines that control the grapple on my tractor. BH lines would attach to this same set of connectors.

 

[IslandTractor]

I think you will find that operation of the grapple from a fender mounted remote will be difficult and cumbersome to operate. You will not be able to operate the loader joystick and the grapple together since you have to remove you hand from the loader joystick to use the grapple.

I will disagree with this one statement. With a grapple you really don't have a reason to lift/drop or curl/dump at the same time as you open or close the grapple. Therefore there is no penalty to the half a second it takes to let go of the FEL control joystick and reach back for the rear remote control. In practice you have the grapple open when you are intending to grab something and you can open the grapple well in advance. You then use the motion of the tractor and up/down+curl functions of the FEL to get into position and load the grapple. You then stop, take your hand off the FEL control, and close the grapple. At no time is is really necessary to have your hand on the FEL control while you are opening/closing the grapple. Once you get used to it there is only a tiny delay and you don't bother looking for the grapple control lever your hand just finds it.

The cost of diverters and other systems are upwards of $400-500. If you have rear remotes the cost is only the extension hoses and fittings to bring the hydraulics up to the grapple. You'd need the same number of fittings if you were using a diverter so the real cost of a grapple is only the cost of the hose itself. Peanuts.

 

[MadReferee]

I will disagree with this one statement. With a grapple you really don't have a reason to lift/drop or curl/dump at the same time as you open or close the grapple. Therefore there is no penalty to the half a second it takes to let go of the FEL control joystick and reach back for the rear remote control. In practice you have the grapple open when you are intending to grab something and you can open the grapple well in advance. You then use the motion of the tractor and up/down+curl functions of the FEL to get into position and load the grapple. You then stop, take your hand off the FEL control, and close the grapple. At no time is is really necessary to have your hand on the FEL control while you are opening/closing the grapple. Once you get used to it there is only a tiny delay and you don't bother looking for the grapple control lever your hand just finds it.

The cost of diverters and other systems are upwards of $400-500. If you have rear remotes the cost is only the extension hoses and fittings to bring the hydraulics up to the grapple. You'd need the same number of fittings if you were using a diverter so the real cost of a grapple is only the cost of the hose itself. Peanuts.

I believe that the majority of people who have grapples and those that don't will disagree with you. It is sooo much easier to operate a grapple using a swtich on the joystick than it is to stop loader motion, remove hand, place hand on fendser lever, operate grapple, remove hand, place on loader, and do more loader movement. It may take some time to get used to but it is clearly not a very efficient way to get work done. Plus, you tie up a remote, that could be used for something else, with long hoses going up to the loader bucket. Not a very clean installation.

 

[MadReferee]

A hydraulic loop can power one function unless that loop is tapped into with a valve which will create a second loop off the original loop. A lever controls one loop, a joystick can control two.

A set of remotes (a pair) provides the connection points for one inlet and one outlet of a single hydro loop therefore controlling one function.

The hydraulic circuit on your tractor is an open center series circuit that starts with the tank, to the pump, to the 2-spool loader valve, optionally to a single or multi spool aux valve for remotes, then on to the 3pt valve and back to the tank. Valve spools are what controls the functions, one function per spool and each spool has two connections or work ports. A valve block may have one to many spools. Activating a valve's spool via a single lever or joysick will cause fluid to flow into one of that spools ports then to an implement cylinder and back out thru the other port back into the valve and into the series circuit. Aux valve spools are typically called remotes, each having a pair of work port connections plumbed to the rear of the tractor. One port is the inlet and the other is the outlet depending on the position o the spool lever.

So, how is a hoe typically plumbed? Does the hoe take it's hydro power off one loop and then split that into two loops (by adding a valve?) so that it can power the hoes' 2 different functions? Why wouldn't a hoe always be plumbed via a pair of remotes so that when it's disconnected, the available loop can be used by another implement? cost?

Hoes can be plumbed one of two ways. First the hoe's valve spool block can be connected using a set of remotes (one spool from an aux valve). In order to get flow to the hoe the lever for the remote must be activated in the correct direction. Usually people tie the lever open using a bungie cord. The second way to connect a hoe is to use a power beyond kit. The PB kit typically breaks the main open center series circuit with 2 connections. The hoe's valve block is then plumbed into these connections thus putting the hoe valve block in series with loader valve, any aux remote valves and the 3pt. When the how is disconnected the two PB connections must be jumpered together with a hose to allow the series circuit to complete. There are several ways that manufacturers do this and some ways will disable the 3pt. Your dealer should be able to explain all these options to you. If he can't then find another knowledgable dealer.

I think a big part of my confusion was (assuming that I now understand!) created by the use of the term "remotes" ...so what are the remotes (as in plural)? The 2 physical connections, one for inlet and one for outlet in the same loop? Are these similar to air hose connections on a compressor except they are fluid filled?

Simply put, a "set of remotes" is the term used to describe the two work port connectors from an aux valve spool that are plumbed to the rear of the tractor that allow a "remote" double acting cylinder on an implement to be activated.

 

[buyerjohn]

thanks island and ref - excellent education! this thread should by marked for all newbies to learn ...

So, it seems that cost being no issue, one pair of remotes for the hoe and one diverter for the grapple would be the best solution. The prices I have are $675 for a diverter installation and $325 for one pair of remotes installation (no hoses to front). Are these reasonable numbers? I think the $675 is but am not sure about the remotes cost. What part of the remotes already exist on a standard tractor? Do you have to run those 2 outlets to the rear of the tractor off a valve somewhere and also install the control lever on the fender? Or is part of that loop already set up by Kioti?

Island, do you have a hoe? If so, are there times when you wish you had a hoe on the back with the grapple or is the rotary cutter the better implement of choice when using the grapple?

The pictures helped...the yellow remote lever I find interesting because it's mounted in an already existing "slot"...do manufacturers leave slots open on the fender for exactly this purpose?

Thanks again for all the help. John.

 

[MadReferee]

So, it seems that cost being no issue, one pair of remotes for the hoe and one diverter for the grapple would be the best solution. The prices I have are $675 for a diverter installation and $325 for one pair of remotes installation (no hoses to front). Are these reasonable numbers? I think the $675 is but am not sure about the remotes cost. What part of the remotes already exist on a standard tractor? Do you have to run those 2 outlets to the rear of the tractor off a valve somewhere and also install the control lever on the fender? Or is part of that loop already set up by Kioti?

That $675 for a diverter installation seems a way bit high since the diverter itself is only $200. See PineRidge's post showing how he installed it himself. It's not hard.

No part of the remotes comes standard. The Kioti kit includes everything needed including to install them, the valve, the lever, the plumbing and the connectors. It is not a very difficult thing to install but you might have to remove the rear wheel and fender to get better access.

...the yellow remote lever I find interesting because it's mounted in an already existing "slot"...do manufacturers leave slots open on the fender for exactly this purpose?

Those that offer integral rear remotes most often have the fender slots already there. Kubota, New Holland and Kioti all do depending on the tractor model.

 

[CBB]

We have been using the rear mount snowblower for years with chains on the agricultural tires. I like ag tires. Anyhow, with a cab,it is not really a problem as described below. Without a cab, the blowing mist from the snow can freeze your face and eyes. I actually got my contacts frozen into my eyes one day using the rear snow blower and had to stop wearing them for several years. Lasik surgery has given me 20/20 since but the cab is a great investment with heater...so are tire chains. Be aware that tire chains don't fit with the woods backhoe mount on a CK20. I don't know about the CK 30. No perfect solutions available yet from tractor manufacturers.
My .02...get the rear mount snowblower with a cab and either a sander or chains..either will work.

I have a CK20 with the Sims cab and a rear mount 60" snowblower. My driveway is about 400' long and a hill with large areas in front and side of my house. Looking back is not a problem at all. I can sit sideways in the seat comfortably which leads to barely turning your head to look back. Having the position control 3pt hitch makes for great small adjustments on the go if you are digging too deep or not deep enough. A plowed driveway looks messy and leaves huge banks all around. MY driveway always as a very nice straight cut edge and the snow is spread throughout the yard. This also makes for faster melting and water dispursement in the spring. Less mud and flooding. The cab with heat is great. In below 0 temps, I can be out in the tractor in just a sweatshirt and stay plenty warm. The window wipers come in handy, both front and rear.

One big factor is gas. At $3/ gallon you will waste a good $10-$15 or more of gas each storm plowing with a truck. $15 of diesel gets me through 4-5 large storms at about 2-2.5 hours each storm.

As far as sanding, I am going to take an electric hopper-type sander (as shown) and strap it to the front end loader that will be plugged into a 12v power supply from the tractor. This way I can sand as I snowblow. EarthWay ATV 12 Volt Broadcast Spreader — 100-Lb. Capacity, Model# M30 | Salt Spreaders | Northern Tool + Equipment

Good Luck with the tractor purchase.

 

[Dmace]

I have loaded Industrials, and have yet to find the need for tire chains. My driveway is about a 8% slope. It makes sense though, that the AG tires would have less traction on snow, since there is so little rubber touching the ground.

Food for thought.