Grande L30 configuration questions

Boondox · Dec 18, 2005

It's looking fairly certain that I'll be trading up from my L3010 to either an L4330 or L4630 soon. It'll be a hydrostat, as I live on a very steep hill and like the convenience of the HST. Besides, that's the only tranny my bride will use. But I have some questions

First, I can't live without a backhoe. But the frame on the Woods 7500 reduced my ground clearance so much that I was unable to get the L3010 into some places I needed to dig. On the new tractor I have a choice of the Woods 9000 or the Kubota BH90. Both have a 9 foot reach and similar other specs, so I consider them equal in that regard. But which has the better ground clearance? On my 7500 sometimes the frame scraped, but usually it was the tail end that got hung up as I drove over bumps or stumps. Between the 9000 and the BH90, which offers the driver more maneuverability?

I have aggie tires now and have been fairly happy with them. But there have been times when the ground is wet where I've created trenches in my field (though never got stuck). And other times driving over sapling stumps I've really wished for the extra plies of the R4s. Ditto when picking up large maple logs (12 foot long and up to 18" thick) with the FEL. Realizing that if the new tractor has R4s I'd have to keep the chains on half the year, is the durability worth it?

A plumbing question for the remotes. My L3010 has a separate manifold in the rear that feeds my remotes. One dealer says that's not necessary; he feeds the remotes directly from the FEL manifold and charges $650 less for the installation. Is that kosher? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

TIA, Pete

MadReferee · Dec 18, 2005

Regarding the remotes. You dealer's way works just fine for externally mounted control valves assuming he plumbs it correctly. However you end up with hoses everywhere and a big valve hanging off the fender or ROPS which may be an issue if you are going thru the woods alot (and also with a backhoe). The Kubota remotes will be nicely integrated under the fender (they bolt directly to the case) and hard line plumbed. The hydraulic connections for the backhoe will also be nicely integrated.

In my opinion, for the Grand L's, the factory remotes are the only way to go and well worth the extra money.

5030 · Dec 18, 2005

MadReferee:

Their not even "hard line plumbed".

There is a blanking plate on the side of the case that is removed and the first, secdond and third valves are bolted with through capscrews right over the orfices under the blanking plate. The subsequent valves receive oil through the primary valves through passages. That's why Kubota says the valves are "stackable". That's a literal statement. Same thing on my M9 and on our M105 though the valves are mounted "out back" rather than "on the side" of the case.

Either way (105-M9-Grand L) it's a neat, sanitary installation, much better than what Boondox's dealer suggests though his dealer does have a cheaper idea. Extra external plumbing means more hanging things to get caught on objects in your path.

One of the built in costs of the remotes on the Grand L is the install itself. They aren't easy to install (I know, I did mine myself). The tractor must be set on stands, tire removed and you have to be about a gnome to get in there to install the linkage. Once it's in though, it's good forever.

MadReferee · Dec 18, 2005

I guess I didn't make myself very clear on that. By hardlined plumbed I meant from the stackable valve block to the QD couplers is a hard line. In any event, it is a very clean setup.

kevincook · Dec 18, 2005

Pete,

It's only money. Go ahead and have the Kubota remotes installed. It is a very clean installation. You can always have the dealer install remotes off the loader valve for additional valves up front /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Kevin

Boondox · Dec 19, 2005

Okay, got most of my answers. Definitely aggies, not R4s, as much of my use will be in the woods and near streams: mud.

Definitely going with the Kubota remotes for the clean install.

The only question I still have is which backhoe has the best clearances under and behind the tractor: BH90 or the Woods 9000?

Pete

ronjhall · Dec 19, 2005

Looking at the spec's for the 2 BH's it hard tell which one has more clearance. If I remember when the BH90 came out ground clearance was one of it's strong point. I don't know what it was being compared to. Did you look at the place you bought your tractor from. They have a used BH90 for a good price.

5030 · Dec 19, 2005

Pete:

By the way, hows the coffee business?? We sure order it when we can.

I'd take a serious look at a Bradco over the Woods and for sure of the BH90. If I was going to get a hoe for my M9, it would be a Bradco.

One other thing though you are probably aware of it but I'll say it anyway and that is get the round back H.D. bucket, preferrably quick detach. The material bucket is weak in the corners where the scraper edge attaches to the side sheets and it breaks there. That is from my own experience and many weld and grind jobs.

_RaT_ · Dec 19, 2005

After checking out the Kubota factory valve location versus where my dealer put the optional dealer installed version, I much pefer the dealer version. The Kubota "neat" way may provide a little more beauty, but what I have offers function over form. Besides, my loader has all of its hoses exposed so the front and the back match /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif. I use my 1st and 3rd remote extensively and like having them where I have instant access to them.

Boondox · Dec 20, 2005

Daryl -- The coffee business is booming thanks to several new customers including McDonald's in New England! Woohoo!

Neither of my local dealers carry the Bradco hoe, which is a bummer as I'd really wanted to check them out. And I thought about the HD bucket, but after seriously abusing my FEL on Clementine and not doing any damage I figured the std bucket was good enough. Especially with the skidsteer style QR that would let me use pallet forks for some of the heavy work like moving logs.

Pete

daTeacha · Dec 25, 2005

I'm not sure this is doable or not, but hang with me a minute. When I was talking with a dealer about an L3400, the one they let me drive had been sold. The buyer wanted Ag tires, but the tractor had R4s on it. The dealer said he just ordered a set of wheels/tires with ags. I asked him what they were going to do with the R4s. He said they'd put them on the next tractor they ordered in. They can order a tractor without wheels/tires. They can also order wheels/tires. Now, here's where it gets interesting -- I saw a guy walking out with a new Kubota wheel from parts, so apparently you can also just order empty wheels. This means you could find your own ag tires at a tire store and have them mounted up for you. I mention this because when I was asking a Kioti dealer about the tires on the tractors they had, he looked at them and said they were 6 ply tires. I said you mean 6 ply rated, right. He replied that they were an actual 6 ply ag tire.

So, at least in theory, you could order your tractor without wheels, order a set of wheels through parts, and get the tires of your choice locally instead of taking what Kubota puts on the rims. Check into it and maybe you can get your ag tire traction along with R4 toughness.

5030 · Dec 25, 2005

Pete:

I don't think the abuse you gave your bucket was the same abuse I gave mine on the 3710 or the 5030. Being cheap, I drilled a hole in the center of the bucket about 8" back from the cutting lip and welded a Cat I lift pin in so I could attach my front mount bale spear. Lifting 4x4 and 4x5 bales puts a lot of downward flex on the bucket causing the side sheets to bow and breaks the corner welds. I started out with a material bucket on the 5030 and broke it right away. I traded the mat'l bucket (after a grind/weld and paint job) for a HD round back and no broblems. The HD has a double layer of metal between the cutting lip and the apron so it don't flex.

The M9 has the HD bucket, but I'll never attach the spear. If I do I'll buy a blank QD plate and weld the spear to that. So far, I just stick one fork of the pallet forks through the bale. The M9 has so much power I just ram it through.

Hope you are toasting your feet in front of the fire this evening like I am about to do with a good book of course.

LeRoi · Dec 26, 2005

It is doable, but it may cost more in the long run. I investigated this option when I ordered my tractor and ordering the wheels thru the parts dept, and the tires from the local michelin ag dealer would cost about twice as much as the package deal. I wanted XM27 michelins for my L4330.
If you want to pursue this option, on a Grand L, you need the back wheels for the R-4's(3830-4630) and the front wheels for the R-1 Ags on an L5030, but I believe you will have interference between the front tires and the FEL frame on the 3cylinder Grand L's, the 4 cylinders are longer so the tires may not hit.
Hope this answers some of your questions.
Leroy

daTeacha · Dec 27, 2005

What kind of problems with gearing will come up when running the taller R1 profile on the front and the R4s on the back? I've been told that the front wheels spin at a higher ground speed than the rears when any tractor is in 4wd, but I'm not sure of the amount or the truth of the statement for that matter.

5030 · Dec 28, 2005

( I've been told that the front wheels spin at a higher ground speed than the rears when any tractor is in 4wd, but I'm not sure of the amount or the truth of the statement for that matter. )

They do, or vice-versa depending on the rim and tire size. That's called lead-lag. The wrong lead-lag ratio can cause premature tire wear, poor handling and damage to the drivetrain in 4wd mode. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

_RaT_ · Dec 28, 2005

"If haying was easy, everyone would do it. It isn't."


No Daryl, I don't think I would do haying even if it was really easy. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

LeRoi · Dec 28, 2005

Teach,
I hope you realize I was only talking about the wheels, not the wheel tire combo.
If you look at micheling agricultural tire rim sizing, they specify the rim width and if you get rims from the kubota dealer that's the closest fit.
To round out the package for correct lead/lag ratio, you need 11LR 16's on the front and 17.5R-24TL's for the rear.
Hope this helps explain things
Leroy

5030 · Dec 28, 2005

( No Daryl, I don't think I would do haying even if it was really easy. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif )

Raterman:

It's NOT easy. You need to have a really good relationship with Farm Credit, steel hinges on your wallet, a one-on-one relationship with Mother Nature, an inordinate amount of good luck, lots of equipment and mucho patience and then and only then you might break even. Buying lottery tickets might give you a better return. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

It's FUN though.

OrangeTractor · Jan 14, 2006

Rat, I have a L2800 and wish to add rear remotes to it,in order to run a log splitter. Do you have pictures or a link for pic's on you installed version? Did he install it on your loader valve or power beyond outlet. I need ideas. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
Steve

sflranchok · Jan 14, 2006

( It's looking fairly certain that I'll be trading up from my L3010 to either an L4330 or L4630 soon. It'll be a hydrostat, as I live on a very steep hill and like the convenience of the HST. Besides, that's the only tranny my bride will use. But I have some questions

First, I can't live without a backhoe. But the frame on the Woods 7500 reduced my ground clearance so much that I was unable to get the L3010 into some places I needed to dig. On the new tractor I have a choice of the Woods 9000 or the Kubota BH90. Both have a 9 foot reach and similar other specs, so I consider them equal in that regard. But which has the better ground clearance? On my 7500 sometimes the frame scraped, but usually it was the tail end that got hung up as I drove over bumps or stumps. Between the 9000 and the BH90, which offers the driver more maneuverability?

I have aggie tires now and have been fairly happy with them. But there have been times when the ground is wet where I've created trenches in my field (though never got stuck). And other times driving over sapling stumps I've really wished for the extra plies of the R4s. Ditto when picking up large maple logs (12 foot long and up to 18" thick) with the FEL. Realizing that if the new tractor has R4s I'd have to keep the chains on half the year, is the durability worth it?

A plumbing question for the remotes. My L3010 has a separate manifold in the rear that feeds my remotes. One dealer says that's not necessary; he feeds the remotes directly from the FEL manifold and charges $650 less for the installation. Is that kosher? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

TIA, Pete )

Ok, I am sorry to be getting in this thread so late...it seems to start out about a backhoe. Have you considered a KX71 mini excavator? I believe it can handle much more that what you are looking at. I have been very pleased with mine so far.

Any thoughts?