grading a long lane

   / grading a long lane #41  
I've done 1300 feet of drive with a rear blade for the last 20 years. It'll crown, smooth, and fill holes if you have time, patience, and aren't particular about perfect smoothness. Just after a rain seems to be the best time, and you can only fix so much rut etc. at a time or it makes a mess. I backdrag with a bucket when done for the final smoothing. Kids pick rocks as rocks and organic trash as those make it impossible to get a good result. There are definitely better implements out there but if $$ is a problem you can do a lot with a blade.
 
   / grading a long lane #42  
I just have two pins that act as stops for the bottom of the tailgate swing. Look at the middle picture on post #16 in this thread and you can see one of them.
If I hang the tailgate behind the pins it acts as a heavy drag going forward and tends to collect and hold light stuff like sod. If I want to get rid of the sod I can leave a pile of it in the road and then back into it and the tailgate acts as a push blade because it hits the stop pins. I just push it off the road. So yes, it is like a box blade with a hinged rear blade.
If I roll the tailgate up and flip it over so it hangs down inside the pins the tailgate can't swing backwards and the box will collect material just like a box blade. So with my hydraulic top link I can control the collection, moving, and releasing of material like you would a box blade. It's not the same as a box blade because of the long box and skids but if I have a really rough area to level or I want to move material from a washout deposit back where it belongs being able to hold alot of material in the box rather than letting all pass through really is useful. It is real easy to control the whole thing with the hydraulic top link.

Nice :thumbsup:
 
   / grading a long lane
  • Thread Starter
#43  
Thanks for all the good information.
 
   / grading a long lane #44  
I just have two pins that act as stops for the bottom of the tailgate swing. Look at the middle picture on post #16 in this thread and you can see one of them.
If I hang the tailgate behind the pins it acts as a heavy drag going forward and tends to collect and hold light stuff like sod. If I want to get rid of the sod I can leave a pile of it in the road and then back into it and the tailgate acts as a push blade because it hits the stop pins. I just push it off the road. So yes, it is like a box blade with a hinged rear blade.
If I roll the tailgate up and flip it over so it hangs down inside the pins the tailgate can't swing backwards and the box will collect material just like a box blade. So with my hydraulic top link I can control the collection, moving, and releasing of material like you would a box blade. It's not the same as a box blade because of the long box and skids but if I have a really rough area to level or I want to move material from a washout deposit back where it belongs being able to hold alot of material in the box rather than letting all pass through really is useful. It is real easy to control the whole thing with the hydraulic top link.

Sounds like a worthwhile addition. I will have to gather some parts so I can add to mine. Thanks.

Still need to get a HTL setup for at least one of my tractors. I'd like it to be on the TC25 but that
does not have any remotes and I think the kit from NH is about $900 which makes it an expensive
option when you add the HTL parts required on top of that.
 
   / grading a long lane #45  
Sounds like a worthwhile addition. I will have to gather some parts so I can add to mine. Thanks.

Still need to get a HTL setup for at least one of my tractors. I'd like it to be on the TC25 but that
does not have any remotes and I think the kit from NH is about $900 which makes it an expensive
option when you add the HTL parts required on top of that.

Just use your loader control valve if your TC25 has a loader. Diverter, control grip and top link kit for about $800. ;)
 
   / grading a long lane #46  
Just use your loader control valve if your TC25 has a loader. Diverter, control grip and top link kit for about $800. ;)

That's the problem, no loader, no hydraulics to tap into.

The loader is on the old Ford 2600. I believe I would need another valve plate under this one to get another remote..correct. I don't want to side track this thread so I will take this elsewhere.

IMAG1347 1.jpg
 
 
 
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