grading a long lane

   / grading a long lane #31  
I don't ever get spillage over the side that I can remember. But if I am recuttiing a road edge along a sod line to make it wider or just to clean it up or doing a road with lots of leaves and/or sod in it then the box fills up with this junk and the clearance under the top cross members could be higher to get better flow thru. If the loose stuff builds up and hits the cross member it gets damed up. You can avoid this by just lifting the 3ph a little or changing your top link length a little but it takes more passes to get the job done. Make sure you don't put an upper cross member over a blade or you will really have a pinch point that will catch stuff.
edit: It is just an ocassional thing and never a problem with clean gravel only when sod and leaves are mixed in. I thought making it heavier and higher would be two good things that would not hurt anything.

Help your self to any thing you see - I don't mind a bit. Square tube idea is great.

I like the hinged blade you have on the rear. Do you have a way to restrain it so you can control the release of material?

I may consider adding that to mine. Is it set like a hinged rear blade on a Box Blade.
 
   / grading a long lane #32  
Big rectangular tubing is not stocked were I live:thumbdown: I have a few other ideas though.

Roger, forget about tubing. (bunch of wimps anyway. :rolleyes: ) Use 1" thick material and be done with it. Build the runners out of 2" X 1" material with 45 degree cut on each side of the top for no pebble holding. Then you can use some other solid stock to get it all together and you should have a nice unit that weighs about 4000lbs. :eek: WAIT, maybe this isn't such a good idea. :confused2: Better go back to your other ideas. ;)
 
   / grading a long lane #33  
I like the hinged blade you have on the rear. Do you have a way to restrain it so you can control the release of material?

I may consider adding that to mine. Is it set like a hinged rear blade on a Box Blade.

Add a hydraulic to the tail gate and a person would be all set. :cool:
 
   / grading a long lane #34  
Roger, forget about tubing. (bunch of wimps anyway. :rolleyes: ) Use 1" thick material and be done with it. Build the runners out of 2" X 1" material with 45 degree cut on each side of the top for no pebble holding. Then you can use some other solid stock to get it all together and you should have a nice unit that weighs about 4000lbs. :eek: WAIT, maybe this isn't such a good idea. :confused2: Better go back to your other ideas. ;)

Is this design for the BX?
 
   / grading a long lane #36  
   / grading a long lane #37  
Power brush and chain drag does it for our mile long gravel drive. Brush angled toward center then 2 passes with the drag.
larry
 
   / grading a long lane #38  
defying gravity is an art...!

That's the advantage of the angle blades. The gravel will travel along the blade towards the right side of the GS even if it's a little higher as you drive along.
 
   / grading a long lane #39  
I was going to make one but by the time I added up the parts it didn't save me enough. But I wanted ripping shanks and really didn't have any scrap steel hanging around. If you look around you may find a pair of cutting edges for a snow plow (that's what I was going to use) that are hardened. The factory blades are tapered on the ends so they cut into the ground a little easier but I think when I priced replacements they were over $100 each.
 
   / grading a long lane #40  
I like the hinged blade you have on the rear. Do you have a way to restrain it so you can control the release of material?

I may consider adding that to mine. Is it set like a hinged rear blade on a Box Blade.

I just have two pins that act as stops for the bottom of the tailgate swing. Look at the middle picture on post #16 in this thread and you can see one of them.
If I hang the tailgate behind the pins it acts as a heavy drag going forward and tends to collect and hold light stuff like sod. If I want to get rid of the sod I can leave a pile of it in the road and then back into it and the tailgate acts as a push blade because it hits the stop pins. I just push it off the road. So yes, it is like a box blade with a hinged rear blade.
If I roll the tailgate up and flip it over so it hangs down inside the pins the tailgate can't swing backwards and the box will collect material just like a box blade. So with my hydraulic top link I can control the collection, moving, and releasing of material like you would a box blade. It's not the same as a box blade because of the long box and skids but if I have a really rough area to level or I want to move material from a washout deposit back where it belongs being able to hold alot of material in the box rather than letting all pass through really is useful. It is real easy to control the whole thing with the hydraulic top link.
 
 
 
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