Got my Carry All today.

[CalG]

Well, If you are using this carry all on your sub-compact Mahindra 25, the front of the tractor will come off the ground before you over load any part of that carry all.

I've got that same carry all (same color any ways) and when it's fitted to my Kubota B7200, the tractor is a real wheelie machine. At least the steering could be termed "light".
I used 1 inch white cedar decking for bottom and front wall, with only a 6 inch "curb" for side walls as I often carry brush and limbs.

Fitted to the B2601 or the Hurlimann with a filled FEL bucket as ballast, Even a heaped up load of crusher run stone hasn't resulted in any bent parts.
I'm thinking of buying another one just like it!

eta

If you want to counter that buckle at the lift pins failure mode, two 1/2 meter lengths of 6 mm thickness "strapping" welded and match drilled would give a lot of added "strength". No need to go all the way to the top of the vertical members.

 

[Tifford]

Warning: I'm not a professional welder. No production welding shop (or any welding shop) is going to hire me.

Started welding today. Second time in a long time. Flux core wire welding outside. Had the Lincoln 135 turned up all the way with the wire speed slow.
It's hot/humid outside and the sweat was dripping off of me. More work to do on this side but taking a break for now. I will definitely drill and bolt the mild steel with grade 8 bolts. I figure before I'm done it should be stronger than the back end of the tractor. Bolting it will give me peace of mind against my questionable welds.

 

[Tifford]

Well, If you are using this carry all on your sub-compact Mahindra 25, the front of the tractor will come off the ground before you over load any part of that carry all.

I've got that same carry all (same color any ways) and when it's fitted to my Kubota B7200, the tractor is a real wheelie machine. At least the steering could be termed "light".
I used 1 inch white cedar decking for bottom and front wall, with only a 6 inch "curb" for side walls as I often carry brush and limbs.

Fitted to the B2601 or the Hurlimann with a filled FEL bucket as ballast, Even a heaped up load of crusher run stone hasn't resulted in any bent parts.
I'm thinking of buying another one just like it!

eta

If you want to counter that buckle at the lift pins failure mode, two 1/2 meter lengths of 6 mm thickness "strapping" welded and match drilled would give a lot of added "strength". No need to go all the way to the top of the vertical members.

I picked up 4 pallets that I'm going to modify for the carry all. I'm a long ways from that project. Saw a good Utube video on how to build it.

 

[rockinbbar]

Warning: I'm not a professional welder. No production welding shop (or any welding shop) is going to hire me.

Started welding today. Second time in a long time. Flux core wire welding outside. Had the Lincoln 135 turned up all the way with the wire speed slow.
It's hot/humid outside and the sweat was dripping off of me. More work to do on this side but taking a break for now. I will definitely drill and bolt the mild steel with grade 8 bolts. I figure before I'm done it should be stronger than the back end of the tractor. Bolting it will give me peace of mind against my questionable welds.

View attachment 3776781

Not to knock your welding, by any means, as I'm not the best welder in the world...

But there's really no need to make the long welds the entire length. Just 3-4 3 inch long welds that are strong enough to burn the brace material and frame together in a slower, beefier weld. Watch the metal as you are welding, you can see the metal blending, and put plenty of rod in with it.

I do structural repair work on my stuff, like this rotary cutter back axle that broke last summer. Added very thick angle iron after the repair weld, and braced it up. Stronger than new.

These welds are burnt deep, and have lots of metal in them. You just have to judge the thickness of you metal to weld, the rod, and amps on your machine.

You'll get better at it if you use it enough.

 

[Tifford]

Not to knock your welding, by any means, as I'm not the best welder in the world...

But there's really no need to make the long welds the entire length. Just 3-4 3 inch long welds that are strong enough to burn the brace material and frame together in a slower, beefier weld. Watch the metal as you are welding, you can see the metal blending, and put plenty of rod in with it.

I do structural repair work on my stuff, like this rotary cutter back axle that broke last summer. Added very thick angle iron after the repair weld, and braced it up. Stronger than new.

These welds are burnt deep, and have lots of metal in them. You just have to judge the thickness of you metal to weld, the rod, and amps on your machine.

You'll get better at it if you use it enough.

Your welds are better than mine by a long shot. Watch the Utube comments on just about any welding welding site and you'll get guys being super critical (sometimes rightfully so and sometimes not so much) of welds.

I am getting better, even in the short time I spent on this project.

 

[CalG]

Your welds are better than mine by a long shot. Watch the Utube comments on just about any welding welding site and you'll get guys being super critical (sometimes rightfully so and sometimes not so much) of welds.

I am getting better, even in the short time I spent on this project.

A secret to welding?.... Watch the puddle!

 

[rockinbbar]

Your welds are better than mine by a long shot. Watch the Utube comments on just about any welding welding site and you'll get guys being super critical (sometimes rightfully so and sometimes not so much) of welds.

I am getting better, even in the short time I spent on this project.

Yeah, I've seen lots of welding critique all over the place. One thing that I seem to notice is that the ones doing all the criticizing are not long out of welding school. You could throw them onto a pipeline or oilfield fabrication job, and they'd be run off in short order.
I just do ranch or farm welding on things I need welded. That's all I've endeavored to do with a welding machine. Just basic welds strong enough to last. Mostly they do, but sometimes they don't.

 

[CalG]

Warning: I'm not a professional welder. No production welding shop (or any welding shop) is going to hire me.

Started welding today. Second time in a long time. Flux core wire welding outside. Had the Lincoln 135 turned up all the way with the wire speed slow.
It's hot/humid outside and the sweat was dripping off of me. More work to do on this side but taking a break for now. I will definitely drill and bolt the mild steel with grade 8 bolts. I figure before I'm done it should be stronger than the back end of the tractor. Bolting it will give me peace of mind against my questionable welds.

View attachment 3776781

You are right, Those welds suck! ;-)

Grade 8 is a waste. Grade 5 (three strikes) are far too good, even if only 1/4 inch.

https://site.alliedbolt.com/files/ShearStrength2.pdf

 

[wolc123]

Two things I did to make the carryall a lot handier on my dad’s little JD 770: 1) bolt a short loop of chain to a pt 4x4 across the back. I use that to attach a chain to, for dragging out logs to be cut up for firewood.
2) bolt a 200 lb steel plate onto the front grill guard for ballast. That allows me to carry a lot more weight on the carryall.

 

[Santa Craig Cringle]

I've got neither a carry-all or rear pallet forks, but I've wondered for some time now why would you ever want a carry-all versus rear pallet forks?

It seems like the pallet forks would be way more useful. You could literally design a custom pallet for anything you might ever want to carry using the carry-all, and instead just switch between the custom pallets at ease. If stability is an issue, just strap or chain the pallet to the pallet fork frame. What am I missing?

 

[Runner]

I've got neither a carry-all or rear pallet forks, but I've wondered for some time now why would you ever want a carry-all versus rear pallet forks?

It seems like the pallet forks would be way more useful. You could literally design a custom pallet for anything you might ever want to carry using the carry-all, and instead just switch between the custom pallets at ease. If stability is an issue, just strap or chain the pallet to the pallet fork frame. What am I missing?

The answer is elementary - you need BOTH.

 

[Alan46]

 

[Gordon Gould]

I've got neither a carry-all or rear pallet forks, but I've wondered for some time now why would you ever want a carry-all versus rear pallet forks?

It seems like the pallet forks would be way more useful. You could literally design a custom pallet for anything you might ever want to carry using the carry-all, and instead just switch between the custom pallets at ease. If stability is an issue, just strap or chain the pallet to the pallet fork frame. What am I missing?

You’re not really missing anything - it depends on what you do. For me I routinely carry a lot of weight and would rather carry it on the rear which is designed to handle it. Also maneuvering around in the woods is a lot harder with a set of forks sticking out up front than a rear carry all. Different strokes for different folks - but both are handy.

 

[Tifford]

Update:
After a few errands I was able to get started.
Went to a big boxy store to get a series of drills bits that are recommended by a certain utube channel for their price and durability. Then I went to a local store to pick up nuts bolts etc.
I prefer nylon nuts but they only had two so I had with those spring type washers. They didn't have many grade 8 bolts so I went with 1/2" grade 5.
Slow going. Drilling smaller pilot holes, twice. Then larger holes until I got to 1/2 inch.
5 done and 15 more to go. I also got two rattle cans of spray paint today (online) that's suppose to match up pretty well with my tractor.

 

[Tifford]

I got 4 more bolts in today. It was slow going and I reversed the previous 5 bolts I put in. So 9 bolts in and 11 more to go.
Slow on the drill with oil on the bits.

 

[JDW 1]

Pallet forks are one of my most used attachments. Add the frontier pallet fork grapple for the complete package. I fabricated mine to also be used on the draft arms for heavy loads, would not be without them

 

[JDW 1]

Also as far as a carry all goes you can find these totes laying around for near nothing, they also make a good safe working platform while elevated.

 

[Tifford]

Also as far as a carry all goes you can find these totes laying around for near nothing, they also make a good safe working platform while elevated.

I might use that idea of a tote later on. I definitely want my forks on my carry all to be able to carry different items. I picked up four pallets (for free) and saw a good use for them on a utube channel. I also got two 55 gallon steel drums (10 bucks a piece) to carry water with for the main purpose of filling my plastic septic tank back up when it gets pumped. I know first hand that those plastic tanks will rise, when empty, with a heavy rain. I'm taking no chances. I drained my well filling up a very recent tank install. Had to use my truck, the steel drums, a cheap pump, an inverter/generator to get water from a lake to finish filling the tank back up. I can always use the 55 gallon drums as burning barrels as they age and either get new barrels or use your tote idea.
I also live at the end of a 1/2 mile single lane dirt road that is not maintained by the state of NY. Add to that a 200 foot driveway in Central NY where we get snow, ice etc. I burn coal as much as I can and will use garbage cans to reuse the burnt coal for traction. Burnt anthracite (fancy name for coal) is excellent for traction as it is sharp and about the size of a pea. I'll spread the Burnt coal on the areas of the road that need it. I've got a snow blower attachment for the front of my tractor (runs off my mid pto) in the winter combined with 4 wheel drive and chains on the rear tires so I should be good to go. Extra weight on the rear tires could help.

 

[Tifford]

Pic of my snow blower attachment in reference to previous post. One pass up the road and a pass back to the house and the road is clear.

 

[Tifford]

Also, not to beat a dead horse, but if I could run a cable from blue dot to blue dot connected with a turn buckle, that would really add strength. Probably increase the capacity way beyond my tractor's capability.