Got my Carry All today.

[CalG]

Well, If you are using this carry all on your sub-compact Mahindra 25, the front of the tractor will come off the ground before you over load any part of that carry all.

I've got that same carry all (same color any ways) and when it's fitted to my Kubota B7200, the tractor is a real wheelie machine. At least the steering could be termed "light".
I used 1 inch white cedar decking for bottom and front wall, with only a 6 inch "curb" for side walls as I often carry brush and limbs.

Fitted to the B2601 or the Hurlimann with a filled FEL bucket as ballast, Even a heaped up load of crusher run stone hasn't resulted in any bent parts.
I'm thinking of buying another one just like it!

eta

If you want to counter that buckle at the lift pins failure mode, two 1/2 meter lengths of 6 mm thickness "strapping" welded and match drilled would give a lot of added "strength". No need to go all the way to the top of the vertical members.

 

[Tifford]

Warning: I'm not a professional welder. No production welding shop (or any welding shop) is going to hire me.

Started welding today. Second time in a long time. Flux core wire welding outside. Had the Lincoln 135 turned up all the way with the wire speed slow.
It's hot/humid outside and the sweat was dripping off of me. More work to do on this side but taking a break for now. I will definitely drill and bolt the mild steel with grade 8 bolts. I figure before I'm done it should be stronger than the back end of the tractor. Bolting it will give me peace of mind against my questionable welds.

 

[Tifford]

Well, If you are using this carry all on your sub-compact Mahindra 25, the front of the tractor will come off the ground before you over load any part of that carry all.

I've got that same carry all (same color any ways) and when it's fitted to my Kubota B7200, the tractor is a real wheelie machine. At least the steering could be termed "light".
I used 1 inch white cedar decking for bottom and front wall, with only a 6 inch "curb" for side walls as I often carry brush and limbs.

Fitted to the B2601 or the Hurlimann with a filled FEL bucket as ballast, Even a heaped up load of crusher run stone hasn't resulted in any bent parts.
I'm thinking of buying another one just like it!

eta

If you want to counter that buckle at the lift pins failure mode, two 1/2 meter lengths of 6 mm thickness "strapping" welded and match drilled would give a lot of added "strength". No need to go all the way to the top of the vertical members.

I picked up 4 pallets that I'm going to modify for the carry all. I'm a long ways from that project. Saw a good Utube video on how to build it.

 

[rockinbbar]

Warning: I'm not a professional welder. No production welding shop (or any welding shop) is going to hire me.

Started welding today. Second time in a long time. Flux core wire welding outside. Had the Lincoln 135 turned up all the way with the wire speed slow.
It's hot/humid outside and the sweat was dripping off of me. More work to do on this side but taking a break for now. I will definitely drill and bolt the mild steel with grade 8 bolts. I figure before I'm done it should be stronger than the back end of the tractor. Bolting it will give me peace of mind against my questionable welds.

View attachment 3776781

Not to knock your welding, by any means, as I'm not the best welder in the world...

But there's really no need to make the long welds the entire length. Just 3-4 3 inch long welds that are strong enough to burn the brace material and frame together in a slower, beefier weld. Watch the metal as you are welding, you can see the metal blending, and put plenty of rod in with it.

I do structural repair work on my stuff, like this rotary cutter back axle that broke last summer. Added very thick angle iron after the repair weld, and braced it up. Stronger than new.

These welds are burnt deep, and have lots of metal in them. You just have to judge the thickness of you metal to weld, the rod, and amps on your machine.

You'll get better at it if you use it enough.

 

[Tifford]

Not to knock your welding, by any means, as I'm not the best welder in the world...

But there's really no need to make the long welds the entire length. Just 3-4 3 inch long welds that are strong enough to burn the brace material and frame together in a slower, beefier weld. Watch the metal as you are welding, you can see the metal blending, and put plenty of rod in with it.

I do structural repair work on my stuff, like this rotary cutter back axle that broke last summer. Added very thick angle iron after the repair weld, and braced it up. Stronger than new.

These welds are burnt deep, and have lots of metal in them. You just have to judge the thickness of you metal to weld, the rod, and amps on your machine.

You'll get better at it if you use it enough.

Your welds are better than mine by a long shot. Watch the Utube comments on just about any welding welding site and you'll get guys being super critical (sometimes rightfully so and sometimes not so much) of welds.

I am getting better, even in the short time I spent on this project.

 

[CalG]

Your welds are better than mine by a long shot. Watch the Utube comments on just about any welding welding site and you'll get guys being super critical (sometimes rightfully so and sometimes not so much) of welds.

I am getting better, even in the short time I spent on this project.

A secret to welding?.... Watch the puddle!

 

[rockinbbar]

Your welds are better than mine by a long shot. Watch the Utube comments on just about any welding welding site and you'll get guys being super critical (sometimes rightfully so and sometimes not so much) of welds.

I am getting better, even in the short time I spent on this project.

Yeah, I've seen lots of welding critique all over the place. One thing that I seem to notice is that the ones doing all the criticizing are not long out of welding school. You could throw them onto a pipeline or oilfield fabrication job, and they'd be run off in short order.
I just do ranch or farm welding on things I need welded. That's all I've endeavored to do with a welding machine. Just basic welds strong enough to last. Mostly they do, but sometimes they don't.

 

[CalG]

Warning: I'm not a professional welder. No production welding shop (or any welding shop) is going to hire me.

Started welding today. Second time in a long time. Flux core wire welding outside. Had the Lincoln 135 turned up all the way with the wire speed slow.
It's hot/humid outside and the sweat was dripping off of me. More work to do on this side but taking a break for now. I will definitely drill and bolt the mild steel with grade 8 bolts. I figure before I'm done it should be stronger than the back end of the tractor. Bolting it will give me peace of mind against my questionable welds.

View attachment 3776781

You are right, Those welds suck! ;-)

Grade 8 is a waste. Grade 5 (three strikes) are far too good, even if only 1/4 inch.

https://site.alliedbolt.com/files/ShearStrength2.pdf

 

[wolc123]

Two things I did to make the carryall a lot handier on my dad’s little JD 770: 1) bolt a short loop of chain to a pt 4x4 across the back. I use that to attach a chain to, for dragging out logs to be cut up for firewood.
2) bolt a 200 lb steel plate onto the front grill guard for ballast. That allows me to carry a lot more weight on the carryall.

 

[Santa Craig Cringle]

I've got neither a carry-all or rear pallet forks, but I've wondered for some time now why would you ever want a carry-all versus rear pallet forks?

It seems like the pallet forks would be way more useful. You could literally design a custom pallet for anything you might ever want to carry using the carry-all, and instead just switch between the custom pallets at ease. If stability is an issue, just strap or chain the pallet to the pallet fork frame. What am I missing?