Got a sticking situation....REALLY !!!

[madmax12]

IMHO ... metal and brick have different rates of expansion. Trying to stick one to the other is just asking for trouble. Chimney flashing is even a worse case. The building roof moves in relation to the chimney. It is better to allow the movement with step flashing covered with counter flashing. Cut a groove and bed the counter flashing to the brick.

That explanation is very helpful to me. So after I patch leaks around my chimney, the various expansion rates weaken my patch...which is why I continually repatch. So, even if I patch ok, it will only be expected to last for so long.

My last patch job seems to have held for a few years... I used "GreatStuff" expanding foam...from underneath the roof, in the attic... In addition to pitch on the top.

 

[jmurray01]

Would it be silly to suggest a tube of super glue ? :confused3:

 

[Domush]

I think the original idea of setting four anchors and screwing it in place sounds the best, especially if it ever needs to come off without taking the mortar with it.

Also, I think you may just move the problem down a few feet with that flashing, as it really needs to run all the way down to the base of the roof, otherwise you are just moving the water problem onto the seam below it. My hypothesis, at least, from to few roofs I've shingled.

Sent from my SCH-I500 using TractorByNet

 

[Danno1]

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How about 3M 5200. Very sticky, flexible , and waterproof.

I would also use something other than galvy. Al, Cu, or Pb as was mentioned in a previous post.

Would a kick out diverter help you any?



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[JDgreen227]

Thanks guys...the pics do not show it very well but the side of the chimney is well flashed ABOVE the rain gutter and when I did leak testing using a hose, the only water that entered the house came from BELOW gutter level...meaning the leak was below the gutter. Last night I put that galvanized patch into place and tacked it onto the vertical sheathing after tucking it under the shingles an inch or so, put the hose overhead and not one drop of water entered the house. I am going to use a grinding wheel to cut a groove in the bricks horizontally just below the soffit, then duplicate the galvanized patch using aluminum, then attach that to the chimney using masonry screws and roofing cement in the groove. Danno1, thanks for the idea of the diverter...that would be an easy addition especially now that I have some shingles to replace.

 

[JDgreen227]

Would it be silly to suggest a tube of super glue ? :confused3:

REALLY SILLY....you should know that stuff does not stick to metal nor brick.

 

[RobertBrown]

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How about 3M 5200. Very sticky, flexible , and waterproof.

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That's the shizzle right there. That caulk is impervious to everyting that matters, or everything I know of. It might not be cheap but I've never had to replace it. It's been on some of my boats for 20 years and still acts like it did the day it cured.
Amazing stuff!

 

[etcallhome]

If you can find Solar Seal caulking , comes in different colors . I seen this caulking get on a piece of metal roofing and another piece just lays on top of the first piece over night and it is a bear to ge the two pieces of metal seperated the next day. Cost about $5.50 a tube Lowes around here does not sell go to a siding company. Put it on chimney behind the metal and then to seal any possible places for water to just go in and possible rot out wood in years to come and where you cut your grove. Also like someone else said try and bend the outer corner to go behind the outer piece of metal. . I would put at least one maybe two tapcons in the brick , or if metal is long enough fasten to soffit and down at roof and on right side next to plywood.

 

[JDgreen227]

If you can find Solar Seal caulking , comes in different colors . I seen this caulking get on a piece of metal roofing and another piece just lays on top of the first piece over night and it is a bear to ge the two pieces of metal seperated the next day. Cost about $5.50 a tube Lowes around here does not sell go to a siding company. Put it on chimney behind the metal and then to seal any possible places for water to just go in and possible rot out wood in years to come and where you cut your grove. Also like someone else said try and bend the outer corner to go behind the outer piece of metal. . I would put at least one maybe two tapcons in the brick , or if metal is long enough fasten to soffit and down at roof and on right side next to plywood.

Solar Seal...hmmm, never heard of it....is the stuff anything like that product called Kool Seal that is used on RV roofs...a white caulk/sealant?

 

[Danno1]

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Actually, you know what else I like to use up on roofs and siding, is Henry 212. It sticks great, stays flexible, takes roof heat, lasts forever, AND is cheaper than 3M 5200. Oh, also readily avail at Lowes/HD.


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