Rear Blade Got a rear blade.. Now what?

[jnjpream]

So I picked up a rear blade thinking I could use it to level and maintain the path that circles our property. Hooked up and tried it today and I think all I did was relocate the damage.

What's the trick to using a rear blade on uneven ground populated with ruts, ridges, and weeds?

Sometimes the blade just drags over the weeds, other times a corner will dig in and start pulling down a ridge provided the tractor wheel isn't on the ridge, and other times the entire blade will dig in until it stalls the tractor (usually in a place I don't need it to dig in).

It seems to work ok to level things if I dig the dirt up with the FEL first, but then why the heck should I even hook up to the blade at that point? I could just back drag with the bucket.

I haven't tried it on my gravel drive, or to move snow yet. But those tasks are minor compared to the path leveling.

Any help would be much appreciated..

Jeff

 

[jk96]

Use the rear blade for clearing snow and buy a box blade for leveling, filling ruts, etc. You'll be amazed how much better a box blade works for the type of work your trying to do.

jk

 

[KML]

A box blade would be good for this as jk96 said. But if you dont feel like running out and buying a new implement a set of gauge wheels will make that blade perform VERY well at leveling your path, working your driveway and removing snow from a gravel drive without pushing most of your gravel in the ditch for a lot less money.

The difference between a rear blade (or landscape rake) with and without gauge wheels is night and day!

As far as the blade digging and not, play with the top link length. Just try it in a few different positions (way in , middle, way out) as this will change how the blade bites.

What size and weight blade did you get BTW?

 

[jnjpream]

My tractor is small (BX22) so I went with a 6'. Not sure what the weight is though. The fact that I'm hooked to a BX22 also throws a wrench into playing with the top link.. As it is now, my top link is all the way in and it only allows me 6" clearance when at full lift. If I crank it out, I would run the risk of exceeding the 3pt upwards travel and suspend the tractor from the blade. Not sure what that would do to the tractor, but it's probably not good for it.


I really need to rig something up on the 3pt because it is a common problem with all my implements. I added new lift pins 5" lower that the original ones on my mower to get around the issue..

 

[Runner]

Not being the best operator in the world, I find that gauge wheels on the rear blade help keep it from digging in too much for me. When I re-gravelled my drive, I set the blade up about an inch and it worked perfectly.

 

[bigdad]

Like KML says, Gauge Wheels. I "sing" about them all the time. Also, just spending a little time getting used to your equipment helps too. It'll become second nature once you FEEL the weak and strong points.

Some RB's have the option for side wings that help pull the material you stir along with the blade. Kind of a poor man's box blade.

 

[jsboening]

I've found the only way to really smooth things out is to till first. Otherwise the dirt is just too clumpy. All the vegetation seems to hold the dirt together preventing it from being evenly distributed. Even when I use my box blade with the scarifers down it doesn't beak the turf up enough. I tried to smooth out part of my field that use to be a corn field. I went over it and over it with the box blade and it just seemed to make a bigger mess than it was. I put the tiller on and then box bladed it. Man what a difference.

 

[TDVT]

The top-link adjustment makes a big difference in cutting by changing the angle of the blade to the ground. A longer T-L tips the blade back so the cutting edge will dig in & vice-versa. Still, a box blade would be better.

 

[KML]

"I really need to rig something up on the 3pt because it is a common problem with all my implements. I added new lift pins 5" lower that the original ones on my mower to get around the issue.."

A had a JD 455 garden tractor with a Cat 0 3 point and had the same problem with all of the readily available attachments being too tall. My fix was to modify a Harbor Freight quick hitch to give more lift height. Kinda killed two birds with one stone- I got the ease of changing implements and didn't have to take the welder after every attachment. Worked pretty well..

I'll see if I have a picture around...

 

[LBrown59]

1*I've found the only way to really smooth things out is to till first.
2*Otherwise the dirt is just too clumpy.
All the vegetation seems to hold the dirt together preventing it from being evenly distributed. Even when I use my box blade with the scarifers down it doesn't beak the turf up enough. I tried to smooth out part of my field that use to be a corn field. I went over it and over it with the box blade and it just seemed to make a bigger mess than it was.
3* I put the tiller on and then box bladed it. Man what a difference.

1*That's exactly why I have a BX1500 with a tiller and a front blade .
2*Clumpy dirt just don't make for a smooth surface.
I level the tilled out dirt with the FEL on the BX23 and or the front blade on the BX1500.
I find with this combo I have no need for a Box Blade.

 

[djradz]

Better use of the blade will come with experience. You may find angling the blade and pushing to the center may help somewhat to eliminate the humps, as the dirt will fall off the inner edge rather than simply building up.

You will need to watch closely what you are doing. Yes, the blade may dig too deep if you let it. Sometimes, you can tell this is happening just by listening to the tractor engine or speed as the tractor will start to labor or slow down, and you'll hear this without even looking. Typically, in such a case you simply lift up a bit on the 3 pt. The secret is to not get into such a state very much or you'll simply have tons of hills and valleys and a much bigger job to deal with. You need to work gradually, digging and spreading a little at a time. Also, you may want to incorporate a little "back-blading" by pushing what you've dug up, especially if its big/too much, backward until spread out. Also, if the pile contains a bunch of trash (roots, clumps, etc) you may want to push some of it right off of the trail altogether.

Start by setting the three point position to something that will not allow too deep of a dig. Essentially, working by only dealing with a couple of inches at a time. Even at this, I think you'll be amazed at how much you move/redistribute in a short period of time.

 

[kthompson]

Better use of the blade will come with experience. You may find angling the blade and pushing to the center may help somewhat to eliminate the humps, as the dirt will fall off the inner edge rather than simply building up.

It can make a big difference angling the blade, it allows it to cut. With most blades you can angle the degree from 90 degree to the tractor and also set the blade out of level and cut a small ditch or round a road bed and such. The big road plows even angle their blades to cut and of course to move the dirt to direction they want it. I have used both box blade and rear blade, I can cut dirt much better with the rear blade only find box blade better to move dirt by pulling it. kt

 

[cowboy357]

I Found that if I Turn the cutting part of the Blade to the Rear, & Set it at the First Notch On Unlevel Ground & Using Reverse is a good Way to at Least Rough in as far as Leveling, This Allows The Humps or low spots to be worked Without The Tires causing even Worse leveling. Added weight to the blade also helps for certain things. Works Real good for Me , But Will Tend to cause a stiff Neck If Your doing a long stretch at a time .

I,ll do that in One Direction Then turn around & Slightly tilt the Fel. With a little down preasure & got the other direction. to Fill in lows, Once You get it Roughed in , Turn the Blade around with the cutting edge to the front , & You will find it much more easy to Level From that point. Also Do This at Slower Low Geared Speeds If You happen to hit a tough spot . For Safety reasons .

I Very Seldom Use the box Blade Unless I,m Cutting trenches , Ditches or Swells on an angle. But I have Auto tilt on the Rear . I,m not Familiar enough with Other Brands of Tractors to wether Thats on Most or not. But its on all 3 of My isekis . Biggest Thing is take Your time & dont Try to cut to much at a time & You will get the hang of it in No time IMO. Just be safe & best of Luck. Bob

 

[jnjpream]

Well I can't justify a box blade just yet (wife still hasn't unloaded since I pulled into the drive with the rotarty cutter and blade ). But it sounds like I may need to slow down a bit and do a small section at a time with the blade angled a bit to work the path.

Now I'm worried that the blade isn't going to do me much good for landscaping since I'll be dealing with contours. Though about a rake.. Would that be better than a blade? And if so, does anybody have a Kevlar vest I could borrow before I go to get one?

 

[djradz]

Now I'm worried that the blade isn't going to do me much good for landscaping since I'll be dealing with contours. Though about a rake.. Would that be better than a blade? And if so, does anybody have a Kevlar vest I could borrow before I go to get one?

I use my blade all the time for "landscaping" so I'm not sure exactly what you mean. Typically, you are using it to smooth things out, contours included. I guess if you ground is extremely irregular, and you want to leave it that way, then you'll have problems. Depending on what your are trying to do a rake can be better, or not as good as a blade.

Although I don't know of anyone who has done it or seen any around these parts, I have heard others talk about fitting the blade with gage wheels (casters). On a landscape rake, I believe they are almost indespensible to keep the rake from grabbing too much, but have always felt they weren't much benefit on a blade and would kind of limit it if you wanted to do much "back-blading". Maybe in your case such could be of benefit however as the wheels will follow contours much better than you could hope to do by constantly adjusting the 3-pt position. Good luck!

 

[john_bud]

My tractor is small (BX22) so I went with a 6'. Not sure what the weight is though. The fact that I'm hooked to a BX22 also throws a wrench into playing with the top link.. As it is now, my top link is all the way in and it only allows me 6" clearance when at full lift. If I crank it out, I would run the risk of exceeding the 3pt upwards travel and suspend the tractor from the blade. Not sure what that would do to the tractor, but it's probably not good for it.


I really need to rig something up on the 3pt because it is a common problem with all my implements. I added new lift pins 5" lower that the original ones on my mower to get around the issue..

YIKES! 6' back blade on a BX22?? what were you thinking? When set up correctly, it will stall the tractor dead unless you are pulling loose dry soil on top of smooth hardpack. I would think that a 4' blade would be optimum and a 5' would be pushing it.

You also are probably not in the correct geometry with top link -- and there is a good chance that you can't get there from here with the BX22 and that blade. You change the attack angle of the blade by changing the top link length. You may not be able to get to where the blade needs to be, given your statement on the top link being all the way in and only having 6" of clearance at full lift.

Maybe a BX'er can give you some more cheerful help, my advice would be to trade on a 4' or 5' blade.

(sorry)

jb

 

[jnjpream]

Well the BX doesn't stall until I'm into 6" or more (slightly less if the blade is already full) of the hard pack so it doesn't seem too big, at least for what I'm using it for. And the dealer said that he has never sold one with to a BX'er tha was less than 5' and the majority leave with a 6' (note that I didn't buy it from this dealer and he knew it up front).

I think I have found a way around the problem with the low drag links. I just need a welder to get it done.. But I'm going to wait until the wife unloads before I hit her with that one .

 

[john_bud]

Well, if it works in your soil, that's a good deal!

Have you tried to smear dirt and grease on your new toy er tools and convince the boss you saved money by buying used? (didn't work for me, either.)

 

[wmgeorge]

Well I can't justify a box blade just yet (wife still hasn't unloaded since I pulled into the drive with the rotarty cutter and blade ). But it sounds like I may need to slow down a bit and do a small section at a time with the blade angled a bit to work the path.

Now I'm worried that the blade isn't going to do me much good for landscaping since I'll be dealing with contours. Though about a rake.. Would that be better than a blade? And if so, does anybody have a Kevlar vest I could borrow before I go to get one?

I had the exact same problem today down at our lake lot. I had a landscape timbered area filled with white rock and I used my bucket to spread. Not level.
So I went back today and after I got good and tired cutting down a few trees and moving machinery around I went to do my "fun" job of grading. After a few minutes of work with my three point blade I gave up and called it a day.
I could not hold the height adjustment, and my conclusion was the the blade was not heavy enough to bring down the 3 point to its setting, at least not right away. When I go back in two weeks I'm going to toss a couple of 70 lb sandbags on top of the blade and then try to re-set the top link so it angles back a ways.

My other thought is turn the blade backwards, and then go forwards, kind of dragging the blade to level.
Just wondering if I'm on track, or not???

 

[LBrown59]

YIKES! 6' back blade on a BX22?? what were you thinking? When set up correctly, it will stall the tractor dead unless you are pulling loose dry soil on top of smooth hardpack. I would think that a 4' blade would be optimum and a 5' would be pushing it.

You also are probably not in the correct geometry with top link -- and there is a good chance that you can't get there from here with the BX22 and that blade. You change the attack angle of the blade by changing the top link length. You may not be able to get to where the blade needs to be, given your statement on the top link being all the way in and only having 6" of clearance at full lift.

Maybe a BX'er can give you some more cheerful help, my advice would be to trade on a 4' or 5' blade.

(sorry)

jb

A 5' should be about right.
A 5' blade on the front of my BX1500 works great.