Gooseneck trailer build...

[doug42190]

Thank all of you immensely for your input and thoughts about this question. 1stDeuce. thank you for those actual measurements and your confirming what I suspected -- not being an engineer I wasn't sure but sometimes if it doesn't look like what others have done, I find it is best to ask. LD1, than you for the pictures, they helped, too. I have some decisions to make but unless someone has a good suggestion on how to make a framework that is safe -- and will fit under the "50 inch" problem and allow me to use the 80 inch spring perch axles, I will eliminate the 80 inch axles from my choices.
I have greatly appreciated the level of candor, explanation knowledge, and wisdom that has been shared with me.
I will keep watching if anyone else cares to add to the discussion.
Doug

 

[doug42190]

Hello again. I am just ready to start reworking my gooseneck trailer and for the 1,000th time I was rereading and studying this build (among others) and I saw something that I had not paid attention to before. It appear that the builder "doubled up" the 3" channel in 4 spots best I can tell. I am at a loss as to what their purpose is. Can anyone shed some light on the reason for them and their placement? For butting the boards?
Also, I can't find a picture of the completed trailer. It's kind of like hearing a joke but not the punch-line.

Thank you,
Doug

 

[1stDeuce]

I'll get a few pics for you tomorrow. The two places where the deck supports are fairly close are indeed where the boards meet. I did that so I had a channel to screw the ends of both boards to. Trying to but them up and screw both to one brace wasn't going to work well.

I need to check the model too... I think my fenders are half an inch too low... The tires can rub them when all the weight is on one axle... Doesn't happen often but I'll put a taller center hanger on it some day...

 

[travis1250]

1stduece do you know roughly the weight rating on the trailer to handle and have a materials list completely? I'm going to have to make my own trailer and I've bought blueprints before but it will not work for the tractor I'm am applying for to get. Thanks for any information you can give

 

[1stDeuce]

Doug, I ended up using the trailer and leaving it about an hour and a half away right after I said I'd get pics... It's back now, so l can get any pics you might want.
Here's one from my recent haul, right out of a Titan XD commercial... 51 sheets of 2" foam insulation and 10 8x20' sheets of 10ga remesh...
Putting a slab in my pole barn.


Travis, I have it tagged for 16k lbs GVWR. I rough calculated that the I-beam I used for the frame is good to more than triple this with a distributed load, so it should be fine. I used two 7k axles instead of the 8k axles under most goosenecks, but I figure I can count the tongue weight into the equation, so another 2k over the 14k the axles will handle... That is not the traditional method to set trailer GVWR, but I'm not the usual trailer manufacturer.

Off the top of my head, the I-beam I used is W12x14#, and the C-channel cross bars are 3"x4.1#. (Does it say earlier in this thread??) I ran the C-channel a little closer where I thought the weight from a vehicle would sit, and a little farther apart where I thought a more distributed load would ride. I think spacing varies between 16" and 20" or so...

I don't have "plans", but I do have the whole thing modeled in Solidworks. I can get some drawings made up if you want to duplicate it.
As they say, the devil is in the details... Getting the basic trailer welded up was quick, but finishing all the bracing, ramp mounts, rub rails, tie downs, jacks, etc took a LOT of time...

And my idea to use the deck stain didn't really work out. It's OK on the bottom, but the top is already dried out and coming apart. Next go round is going to be Glidden Porch and Floor with a packet of grit dumped in... I think that'll hold up much better...

 

[doug42190]

1stDeuce,
Thank you. I have been collecting more information as I prepare my undertaking. I sort of thought the doubled cross members were for attachment points. I had to go back to the drawing board on my project as I lucked into a tri-axle generator trailer is excellent shape -- minus the generator. It came with 3- 7,000# Dexter 12T torsion axles (5 nearly new tires and brakes) and an excellent condition 359 gallon aluminum diesel fuel tank -- no gouges and only very minor scratches -- for $900.00. The prices I have seen for an aluminum fuel tank are $7.50-$9.00 per gallon. I should be able to sell this for enough to get my money back from the cost of the trailer and then some. But I will wind up with a tri-axle trailer that rides very nice and another well built frame that the axles came under. I have found in several places where it is recommended to allow 3 inches between the top of your tire to the underside of the fender. How much was yours? I do have some other questions but back to work for now.

 

[1stDeuce]

I'm on the wrong computer at the moment, but I believe I designed it with 3.5" of clearance... I'm running spring axles, so articulation can use up about 2" of that, and I figured spring deflection might be close to 1.5" when loaded. I'm pretty sure I actually built it closer to 3" originally, and with some settling of the springs, I'm not a bit less than that even...

I have 12k enclosed gooseneck with torsion axles... I do not care for it at all. It is really bouncy unless it's loaded super heavy, and I don't like how the axles won't equalize. If you go over a bump, all the weight goes to one tire, while the other lifts off the ground... On the flip side, I've never seen it squat, even loaded near 12k capacity. I should think you will need much less tire to fender clearance than on a spring axle trailer...

<edit> I just went and checked. Though I'm pretty sure I had around 3" when I first assembled it, the static clearance is around 2-1/2" now, which is not enough for spring/equalizer axles. It's fine going down the road, but the tires do rub going in/out of driveways, through ditches, etc. I'm planning to put a taller middle hanger in it when I get a chance, but that may be a few years...

 

[Terrick down Under]

Hi, love your detail descriptions and pics. How is the trailer now that it has seen some use. Would you change anything. TIA.

 

[dullpain]

PRETTY WORK. You can be proud !

 

[Renze]

I'm pretty sure I actually built it closer to 3" originally, and with some settling of the springs, I'm not a bit less than that even...

I did a project at a spring manufacturer. They also made heavy duty 10 ton springs for dumptrucks. The new springs were put on a bench and pressed two or three times to their max deflection, so that they would set on the bench, and not at the first few loads of the customer...

The half inch sag could be because you measured unloaded springs, butnow the unloaded weight of the trailer remains on them, or because they have set after the first test load.