Going to modify my chains, I think

[LouNY]

For an inexpensive option it looks good and it may be very effective for you,
good luck.

 

[CalG]

I run two sets of cheap ladder chains on the HT-23, A V-bar set over a regular twist set.

Rides OK for pushing or blowing snow. In summer, I take off the outer V-bar, but leave the lesser set on. Chains don't show in turf the way spinning rubber does.

 

[BackRoad]

Speaking of chains...with 4 wheel assist (4WD) does also adding chains on the front wheels provide meaningful improvement in traction over just doing the rears?

Is it worth the trade off in expense and change in ride to add them to the front also?

 

[LouNY]

I would say that every situation is different,
every tractor is different, then add in the style of chain being used.
I run the studded Euro type on the rear on a heavy tractor (10,000#),
I have chains for the front but I very seldom use them, only when heavy Ice storms are forecast.
On a couple of even larger tractors we run front chains because of rear tire clearances.
Then there is one with a single front wheel chained and an opposite rear wheel chained, again for clearance issues.
If you are using a front blade to plow and are running it angled you could likely find front chains beneficial.
The studded square or diamond pattern euro chains will provide a ride that is not much different then the rubber only ride,
but with an extreme traction difference.
Adding chains front and rear will effect your tire lead lag ratio, as will just front or rear chains.

 

[BackRoad]

Thanks Lou...makes sense. Plan is to get the Euro style, but was unsure if both front and back were needed.

Looks like it is best in the long run to get them.

Like a life jacket...no time to go find one when it is needed at a critical moment.

 

[Wyobuckaroo]

I run 2 link, V bar chains for a logging buncher on 14" turf tires.. This from a custom chain making shop..
I bought a set of ladder chains from John Deere that were the approved part number for my tire size that were a horrible fit and virtually totally un usable.. It got a full refund..

No chain is going to be a highway smooth ride, but reasonably smooth depending also on the base you run on.. Mine start out pretty smooth, then when the frost goes 2 meters deep it gets rough again, and smooths out again with spring..

I do not use chains on the front.. Running in 4x4 helps with getting around, but running chains on front is too harsh on the gearing and such to be worth it..

My 5 cents of opinion...

 

[PILOON]

Many if not most CUTs state that the front drive is an assist.
That being said I would not really feel comfortable chaining them as the strain might be detrimental to the more delicate drive line.
For that reason I only chain my rears, but I have studded crosses every 3 link so I don't 'slip and grab'.
Nice smooth ride with plenty of traction even on icy hills.

 

[wheelbuilder]

So I got to try out the chains in a spot I usually slip quite a bit. I usually plow the lawn's leaf pile into a small gully so they can compost. I normally need the diff lock to back from the edge, even with the chains in their old ladder config. Today, no problems, so it appears to help in that spot. I did figure out some of the roughness to the rider I missed the last diagonal where the chains link back together.
Got that in and I'm pretty content.

Snow is the next test, this last noreaster was too far east to give them a try. I'm ok with that, but I do like my seat time.

 

[LouNY]

:thumbsup:

 

[wheelbuilder]

So the first serious snow of the year and they worked fine. Nothing loosened up and the grip was far better. Not even a hang up going around the long to make a path for the dog. I think having the weight one the angled links helps keep the traction consistent. I may get longer chain in the spring so the link can tie in at the sides.