Generac LP generator didn't start up when needed today

[coobie]

Battery is maintained off the units built in system. If the power Co. is providing juice, the generator battery is being kept charge.

The regular exercise seems like a great tool, and I've asked the gal to pay attention to when the weekly session is heard. But if she doesn't hear anything, what's to notice? I can't expect her to hang around all afternoon on the day the session is supposed to take place. And I'm not going to run over there once a week to check it for her. I can't imagine the weekly cycle timer being that repeatable. the time likely drifts, and the entire process is done in less than 15 minutes.

Please note, the gal is trying to recover from a cancer, she has cateracts and is getting that surgery, and she lives some distance from me (10 min drive) .

When is the last time the water level was checked in the battery?Had the same happen with my 17 kw genrac lp.The auto charge boils the water out of the battery.My battery lasted 2 years.Bought new battery since then I check my battery water level 3-6 months.No issues after that.

 

[grsthegreat]

I've been told by an electrician I know, he believes that the Kohler units are of better quality. Do you have any opinion on that?

ive installed both brands. i dont see any difference except that the kohler have hydraulic valves. Generac has started using hydraulic valves in the 13 and 16 kw units just last month. the 20 & 22 kw units will get hydraulic valves next year i hear. Generac is product testing the new engines for the 22kw right now.

after installing both brands, i just like the ease of install of the generac over the kohler. i hear praises and deniers of both brands. lets face it, if they could make a 1800 rpm air cooled generator, they would corner the market. but a 4 pole generator is too large and heavy for an air cooled to handle. i really wanted to install the liquid cooled 22kw on my own house, but i could not justify the price. heck, even the maint sucks on the liquid cooled compared to the air cooled. i have less issues with the air cooled over all compared to the liquid cooled. The Generac tech support that I get as a generac trained tech is second to none. they always get me the answers i need fast and courteous. i hear that the tech support for the consumer has much to be desired. Parts are always in stock, and i can opt for overnight or standard 5-7 day shipping. i very rarely find that the part isnt in stock ..even on 20 year old units. For units under warranty, i have never had any issues getting reimbursed. most of the units i install come with either 5,7 and sometimes 10 year parts,labor and travel time warranty depending on the promotion.

i have never dealt with kohler warranty so i have no opinions.

 

[Industrial Toys]

So is the lady still without power?

 

[ray66v]

ive installed both brands. i dont see any difference except that the kohler have hydraulic valves. Generac has started using hydraulic valves in the 13 and 16 kw units just last month. the 20 & 22 kw units will get hydraulic valves next year i hear. Generac is product testing the new engines for the 22kw right now.

after installing both brands, i just like the ease of install of the generac over the kohler. i hear praises and deniers of both brands. lets face it, if they could make a 1800 rpm air cooled generator, they would corner the market. but a 4 pole generator is too large and heavy for an air cooled to handle. i really wanted to install the liquid cooled 22kw on my own house, but i could not justify the price. heck, even the maint sucks on the liquid cooled compared to the air cooled. i have less issues with the air cooled over all compared to the liquid cooled. The Generac tech support that I get as a generac trained tech is second to none. they always get me the answers i need fast and courteous. i hear that the tech support for the consumer has much to be desired. Parts are always in stock, and i can opt for overnight or standard 5-7 day shipping. i very rarely find that the part isnt in stock ..even on 20 year old units. For units under warranty, i have never had any issues getting reimbursed. most of the units i install come with either 5,7 and sometimes 10 year parts,labor and travel time warranty depending on the promotion.

i have never dealt with kohler warranty so i have no opinions.

:thumbsup: Thanks.

 

[grsthegreat]

holy cow..hard to describe in a message. i can tell you that some of the videos on youtube are not correct. there is even one guy that adjusted them when generator wasn't at TDC.... that's a generator destined to fail.

for the 16-22 kw size, personally i use the one up and one down method to adjust instead of the top dead center. this is the method most techs that i converse with use. i shut off the generator and remove the shroud cover on the left side fan area. then remove both spark plugs. this is when i regap plugs if im re-using them. then i manually rotate fan until one valve totally compresses and the other is fully relaxed. then i gap the relaxed valve to between .002-.004 inch. Better a bit loose than too tight,especially the exhaust valve. I re-tighten jamb nut to 168 inlb torque and THEN re-check gap, as gap will sometimes change after torqued. i use a 13mm clawsfoot on my torque wrench, and you HAVE to keep the clawsfoot at a 90 degree angle to the handle of the torque wrench so you dont affect the actual torque moment. on the 14kw units the torque is only 72 in lb and you need a 10mm claws flot unit. it takes very little change in the allen wrench to affect a major change in the gap. and you have to maintain the grip on the allen wrench and valve bolt as you tighten jamb nut. this is when a genetically added 3rd or 4th hand would come in handy.

i also recommend the use of anti seize lube on plugs before re-installing them. for some reason Generac does not ship unit with it, but in tech school they instill in us the use of it.

 

[grsthegreat]

oh, and to the original poster.....you can also try plugging both venturis with your hand during cranking. if unit starts right away its a fuel issue and not spark related. And i have to assume that you checked the propane tank levels and shut off valves. I should have stated that this is the first thing i always do prior to opening the generator. Man, some of these checks just get so ingrained that i actually dont have to think about it...i just do it.

 

[CalG]

Just back from "the service call". ;-)

Valve lash on one exhaust was over .009" The other three were right at .002.

It looked like the spark plugs were original Champion RC12YC. New ones installed.

Buttoned back up, the unit started right up in the manual mode. Cranked for only about 1 second.

Set the exercise system on, the restart took no time at all I heard the starter engage, a moment to crank, and then va-r-o-0-om!
Ran the 12 minutes or so per the exercise program and shut it's self off. Status light was good to go.

I'm troubled about that ex valve. I think I'll double check that jamb nut next week after another exercise cycle. I didn't think to bring the never-seeze, the old plug threads looked dry, but the plugs screwed out by hand after loosening with the socket.

One thing really caught my attention though. The muffler shield showed scorching of the paint. When it was removed to reveal the muffler, the side of the muffler was blown out across the entire upper half of the seam where the end plate joins the body. There must have been a heck of a popping in the exhaust at some time previously. I hammered the end plate gap closed as best I could. (I should have snapped a picture of the before and after) They make those mufflers out of some pretty stout steel. The damaged seam can be welded to shut the leakage, but that will spoil the anti-corrosion coating. (aluminized I assume).
The blow out is nearest the same valve that was sloppy. I don't know what to make of all this.

I sure wish I could have read all this great information before I left this morning to check it out. Winter is coming, and it needs to be right.

ETA
No sign of rodents at all. ;-)

 

[Industrial Toys]

Nice of you to offer your EXPERT guidance. Many people who make a living in the service industry, keep info to themselves.

 

[DarkBlack]

ive installed both brands. i dont see any difference except that the kohler have hydraulic valves. Generac has started using hydraulic valves in the 13 and 16 kw units just last month. the 20 & 22 kw units will get hydraulic valves next year i hear. Generac is product testing the new engines for the 22kw right now.

after installing both brands, i just like the ease of install of the generac over the kohler. i hear praises and deniers of both brands. lets face it, if they could make a 1800 rpm air cooled generator, they would corner the market. but a 4 pole generator is too large and heavy for an air cooled to handle. i really wanted to install the liquid cooled 22kw on my own house, but i could not justify the price. heck, even the maint sucks on the liquid cooled compared to the air cooled. i have less issues with the air cooled over all compared to the liquid cooled. The Generac tech support that I get as a generac trained tech is second to none. they always get me the answers i need fast and courteous. i hear that the tech support for the consumer has much to be desired. Parts are always in stock, and i can opt for overnight or standard 5-7 day shipping. i very rarely find that the part isnt in stock ..even on 20 year old units. For units under warranty, i have never had any issues getting reimbursed. most of the units i install come with either 5,7 and sometimes 10 year parts,labor and travel time warranty depending on the promotion.

i have never dealt with kohler warranty so i have no opinions.

4 pole generator is too large and heavy for an air cooled to handle



No idea what you mean here. A 4 pole motor or generator of the same kw is basically the same weight and size of a 2 pole version.

 

[grsthegreat]

Just back from "the service call". ;-)

Valve lash on one exhaust was over .009" The other three were right at .002.

It looked like the spark plugs were original Champion RC12YC. New ones installed.

Buttoned back up, the unit started right up in the manual mode. Cranked for only about 1 second.

Set the exercise system on, the restart took no time at all I heard the starter engage, a moment to crank, and then va-r-o-0-om!
Ran the 12 minutes or so per the exercise program and shut it's self off. Status light was good to go.

I'm troubled about that ex valve. I think I'll double check that jamb nut next week after another exercise cycle. I didn't think to bring the never-seeze, the old plug threads looked dry, but the plugs screwed out by hand after loosening with the socket.

One thing really caught my attention though. The muffler shield showed scorching of the paint. When it was removed to reveal the muffler, the side of the muffler was blown out across the entire upper half of the seam where the end plate joins the body. There must have been a heck of a popping in the exhaust at some time previously. I hammered the end plate gap closed as best I could. (I should have snapped a picture of the before and after) They make those mufflers out of some pretty stout steel. The damaged seam can be welded to shut the leakage, but that will spoil the anti-corrosion coating. (aluminized I assume).
The blow out is nearest the same valve that was sloppy. I don't know what to make of all this.

I sure wish I could have read all this great information before I left this morning to check it out. Winter is coming, and it needs to be right.

ETA
No sign of rodents at all. ;-)

that is weird. ive never ever had any issues with the muffler. not sure what could cause that....maybe the loose exhaust valve just let too much gas thru the engine into the muffler and when the unit caught it ignited...just a guess. usually i find exhaust valves too tight over time, that causing the starting issue. you would not believe the number of generators ive brought back from death with a simple valve adjustment. my service regimen is oil change every 2 years (mostly due to moisture build up in oil) or every 200 running hours, and valve check every 4 years. the first valve adjust after 25 running hours.