Buying Advice GCK60-BX Conversion to BX25

[bxkubota]

Not sure I follow as I thought this extender would go on your tractor side rear PTO to extend it 3". That shaft is already a 1 3/8", 6-spline shaft. Your existing GC PTO shaft must attach to the standard rear PTO stub now. What am I missing?

I am thinking this is the extension that would work...

Extension Adapter - 0271033 | Tractor Supply Company

 

[CHDinCT]

I am thinking this is the extension that would work...

Extension Adapter - 0271033 | Tractor Supply Company

Yeah, that one looks better. The link I posted didn't look right but the description looked correct. The one you linked is a 4" extension, so worst case you have to cut down the existing shafts a little. Has to be cheaper than a whole 'nother snow blower shaft, which I bet you can't buy just one half of anyway.

 

[BX25 in DE]

Guys, what I'm seeing here is that you are attempting to extend the original drive shaft of the GC. The existing or original GCK60-BX drive shaft after my modification of the top link would still engage in the other half BUT it was only engaged about 3/4ths of an inch. That isn't much grip at high RPM. I choose to go with the snow blower's drive shaft which is about 1.5" longer than the original GC's drive shaft which means it is now engaged a little over 2" into one another. The adapter/extender that you are referring to in the link above would be way too long. I'm pretty certain the extension would cause the two drive shafts to "bottom out" against one another once they are engaged and thus you would never be able to fasten your two lower link arms to the GC. Even with the additional 1.5" of length provided by the snow blower's drive shaft it is enough to enhance my comfort level. If you do not fasten the drive shaft FIRST when installing the GC to the BX25 you will never get my modified/longer drive shaft connected if the lower arms are secured first. If the 3 point hitch is attached to the GC & BX first the longer snow blower drive shaft modification of the GC will not be able to be attached to the PTO, there just isn't enough room to manuver or collapse the drive shaft into the correct position to engage the PTO coupler. If you extend the PTO connection 4" rearward I believe you will be cutting down a lot of things, both drive shafts, and both plastic outter drive shaft covers. I'm not sure how tuff it would be to cut those shafts but that is something you might have more experience with than I.

 

[BX25 in DE]

BTW the $227 price quote for either part number that I provided earlier is actually the half drive shaft that is needed. The more I think about the extension piece idea it might work as suggested above as long as one is williing to do some cutting on their existing drive shafts. I would have explored that option if I had thought or known of the extension piece but since I've got this current configuration worked out now I'm going to move ahead with the new half drive shaft for my snow blower. If someone works out the extension piece after they add the 6" extension to their top link I hope they post their results / findings here for all to learn from. In my case, my snow blower will get a new half drive shaft (that's a good thing) with a new universal joint. Maybe the next person can do this even cheaper than I have with the drive shaft extension. Hopefully if the extension works out maybe the drive shaft pieces will not even have to be cut. That would be fantastic and interesting if it worked out.

 

[BX25 in DE]

Okay, okay, okay! After much thought, I'm going to do some additional drive shaft measurements this morning to see how much more the original GCK60-BX'x drive shafts will actually collapse if they are already actually engaged the 3/4" just as if I hadn't made the swap with my snow blower drive shaft. If they do indeed collapse the 3"-4" needed to use the extension mentioned by several folks in this narrative then I'll swing by TSC & see if they have the part and I'll give it a try. If it does work then I'll save the $200 and be even happier. I'm just not looking forward to dissassembling and reassembling those 2 drive shaft universals - man I wish you guys had tipped me off with the PTO extender BEFORE I started this entire process! Oh well lesson learned & $200 saved if it works. And here I thought I was all done with this one . . . If the drive shafts have to be cut I will pass on this idea mainly because of future resale value of the unit to the next owner. Given the one physical modification that I already made it can actually be undone with a single cut by a hacksaw. Once I start cutting down drive shafts things become a bit more permanent and more costly to undo. Stay tuned . . .

 

[BX25 in DE]

Well this is one of those good news bad news sort of things. I did work in a TSC run this morning and they were out of stock w regards to the drive shaft extension. Having measured the "collapsibility" of the OEM GCK60-BX drive shafts it appears that (here comes the GOOD news) the extension will indeed work with the existing drive shafts kind of (now here comes the BAD news). If you can install the drive shaft extender you will still be forced to secure the drive shaft once you physically position the GC behind your BX24 or BX25 because there will be very little room left in the drive shaft movement (inward and outward) to allow you to connect it to the PTO should you attach the 3 point hitch to the GC first. Now this isn't really any big deal (or the real BAD news). So here it comes . . . The BX25 PTO shaft DOES NOT HAVE the hole in it needed to secure the drive shaft extension which requires a roller pin (which it comes with) to secure it to the PTO. To use it you will need to strategically drill a hole (probably with a hand drill). Now I'm only assuming here that the PTO shaft on the BX25 isn't harden steel and can actually be drilled but keep in mind it is a 1 & 3/8" thick shaft in which you will need to drill a 1/4" hole (apporximately) AND you will have to hand drill it most likely while laying on your back and there will be virtually no room for error. Should you screw it up, you will have spent a large part of your life drilling for nothing. . . Perhaps your PTO WILL actually have the hole predrilled in it, mine does not. Kubota HAS been known to change things in the middle of model runs so you would be advised to check to see if you have the hole already predrilled. Keep in mind I have only "eyeballed" my measurements with regards to using both halfs of the old or original GC drive shafts and that I could not get my hands on an actual TSC extender to confirm my measurements but if I'm right there should still be about 1" of "slide" room on the 2 shafts when connected to the extender IF I'm right. . .

At this point I'm going to pass on the extender given the fact that I have already devoted enough of my time to get this to work, on Monday I'm going to order the new half drive shaft for my SB since I've retrofitted my current/existing SB drive shaft to now work with my GC.

I'm hoping all this information has helped "someone" other than myself. If it has great!

 

[bxkubota]

To those looking for a little more cost effective drive shaft option when doing this modification I found one. I stopped in my local tractor supply and found part #93-14000620 made by Weasler. It is a half shaft complete assembly and the same brand of shaft on my factory bagger drive shaft. I purchased this half shalf assembly and cut off 5 1/4" from the shaft and 6 1/4" from the outer tube. I had to do a little minimal grinding to all four sides with a grinding wheel and clean up with a flap disc to get it to slid into the female portion easily of the shaft on the bagger but it works perfectly. I recommend measuring twice before making any cuts and test fitting the bagger to the tractor when taking measurements.

I ended up ordering this assembly from Blain's Farm and Fleet online for $69.99 plus shipping and had it in two days. They sell two versions with the same part number the only difference is the safety tube is either the inner or outer portion. I needed the outer portion of the tube with the decal. I added a pic of the part number on the shaft and can post more if there is an interest.

 

[dougkumo]

Hi, Had very similar experience and finally invented a new top link for this grass catcher. Slides over the GCK60-BX and into the back of my BX25D... Easy as Pie. Use the Top arms to get the drive shaft level and then rock the top link forward to use standard cinch pin design.

Will have a You Tube video up when I get a chance. Email or reply for info and pricing on the Tip Link, I made a few.

 

[Tomtint]

I had the same catcher on my BX22, my dad has on on his 23. Every time I put it on his tractor, I wonder why someone ( kubota ) does not just have a bracket welded to the bottom of the catcher that would rest inside the two cradle hooks that the BH sits in. You could tip it forward into the cradle, push it forward to slide the pin through the top and completely do away with the lower arm nonsense. It would take someone with a bit of welding expertise about 2 hours to fabricate one.

 

[dougkumo]

I had the same catcher on my BX22, my dad has on on his 23. Every time I put it on his tractor, I wonder why someone ( kubota ) does not just have a bracket welded to the bottom of the catcher that would rest inside the two cradle hooks that the BH sits in. You could tip it forward into the cradle, push it forward to slide the pin through the top and completely do away with the lower arm nonsense. It would take someone with a bit of welding expertise about 2 hours to fabricate one.

Tom, Thanks for the input. Did consider trying to not use the 3pt hitch but realized right away that a few main issues would have to be solved. Sure that the 2 hour design time you quote would end up be measured in Days. Still, I will take another look as I hate having to hang the 3pt every time I want to use that GCK60

1) Cantilever Weight - GCK60-BX is very heavy which forces a design that will not box, flexor bend. That is a pretty heavy amount of weight to balance on two little legs that Kubota supplied. No matter what the unit has to remain high enough in the air to get underneath it.
2) Locking the GCK60-BX onto the BH locks would also be necessary, at least from a Kubota Safety perspective. Again not impossible but would need more steel to connect, more weight to balance. If this isn't managed then I'm 100% sure that eventually someone will be dragging the grass catcher behind by the top link.

38 years of Engineering has taught me one thing... The key to a good design is NOT in the prototype creation, it is being able to make the "second" copy of the solution for your neighbor & friends. The install is pretty easy with my solution, just have to remember to remove the upper arm pins once the grass catcher is in place. Sure that a few have snapped the drive shaft safety pin by forgetting that step.

Take care,
Doug

 

[lamanated]

or this replacement shaft you need about 8 1/2 " of shaft vs the 5 1/2 on the original one
Weasler Yoke & Shaft, 6 Series - Tractor Supply Co.

 

[lamanated]

cheap option is to remove the rectangle stock spline, and install a piece of keystock,, it needs to be .750 x .875 inch by about 9 in long,
or you can buy a made up new section from Weasler for 50

 

[dougkumo]

OK, first thing, sorry it took so long to get this up but had to wait in line at fab this time. The picture you see should speak volumes, large end to GCK60-BX and smaller side to back of BX25 / BX25D. Might also fit BX24. I think these older GCs were for 1800, 1860, 2200s which appear to also have shorter 3 point lower arms than the newer models.

Finished color is going to be Kubota Gray, But we can also do Orange if you like, makes it easier to find when you are looking. I designed mine 'cause the fellow I bought the GCK60 from couldn't find his prototype when I arrived to load. Anyway, I will add a couple more pictures of it in place, during fitting yesterday. If the rain stops I'll try to get a video done.

Should have a dozen or so real soon so let me know if interested.

 

[dougkumo]

. .

Before weld & paint I snapped these pictures during fitting to the GCK60-BX. The grass catcher is mounted to lower arms & up off the stand legs by a few inches, pulled up and manually swung forward to set the TOP LINK using the upper arms. Once the 2 pins go in, shut off the tractor, release the 3pt pressure and then pull the upper arm pins and that's it. EZ PZ Lemon Squeezy.

No price yet, but the estimate is looking like $75 total with two pins/clips. Having a bunch made to see how we do in production. One up fab is hard to get efficient so making a few dozen.

 

[surfran]

Thought I would post since I finally got my setup completed. I recently bought a used 2011 BX25 and sold my BX1800 but kept the rear bagger. I conversed with Doug several times during his manufacturing and took measurements of my old BX 1800 to compare to the BX25 along the way. When he finally got the finished product I bought one and he send out immediately. Great service and response. The new extension worked perfectly but then I realized I also was going to be too short on the drive shaft after I installed it with the new extension so had to buy the half shaft noted above at Tractor supply (price up to $109 now a days) and then cut ~6 1/8" off from it. Finished it up last weekend and tested it out on the leaves. Works great!!! Last item now is a band clamp for the tube from the boot to the bagger as the bagger sits back further so it doesn't want to stay on snug (as you can see in the picture). My plan is to add a band clamp on the boot itself so it doesn't allow the tube to go all the way down leaving more on the blower end.

Here are some pics.

 

[flienlow]

Thought I would post since I finally got my setup completed. I recently bought a used 2011 BX25 and sold my BX1800 but kept the rear bagger. I conversed with Doug several times during his manufacturing and took measurements of my old BX 1800 to compare to the BX25 along the way. When he finally got the finished product I bought one and he send out immediately. Great service and response. The new extension worked perfectly but then I realized I also was going to be too short on the drive shaft after I installed it with the new extension so had to buy the half shaft noted above at Tractor supply (price up to $109 now a days) and then cut ~6 1/8" off from it. Finished it up last weekend and tested it out on the leaves. Works great!!! Last item now is a band clamp for the tube from the boot to the bagger as the bagger sits back further so it doesn't want to stay on snug (as you can see in the picture). My plan is to add a band clamp on the boot itself so it doesn't allow the tube to go all the way down leaving more on the blower end.

Here are some pics.View attachment 395512View attachment 395511View attachment 395513

Well its year 2020 and I mistakenly bought the wrong grass catcher for my BX25. Thank you Guys so much for this. If these parts are still made I would be happy to buy one!!

 

[dougkumo]

Hi all, Sorry for the delay in posting,busy on the farm here.

We are selling the Top Links on Ebay, here's the listing:

Kubota Tractor GCK6-BX Grass Leaf Catcher Top Link Adapter - BX25 BX24 Compact | eBay

Also carry some Kubota small parts as well so check our other listings.

Kubota BX25 TBL Tractor Parts K2581 Misc Grip Handle Pedal Covers Backhoe Loader | eBay

 

[flienlow]

dougkumo Ordered!! thanks!! any advice on the PTO shaft?

 

[dougkumo]

dougkumo Ordered!! thanks!! any advice on the PTO shaft?

Most folks who have purchased this top link report their PTO Shaft worked best from 13 3/4" to 15 3/4" length for best engagement to the Grasscatcher.
Mine was 14 1/2" and worked great.

If you need to lengthen it can be done with welding, so just find a local fabricator to help get the square stock and add a few inches. The key is to insure you have at least 1 inch interface inside the GCK60 coupling, more is better.