GC1705 Will not Start!

/ GC1705 Will not Start! #41  
Once you get the tractor going, does it seem to be ok power wise?
That would tell you if it's getting enough fuel.
Does this have a cold start setup, maybe thats blocked or not functioning?
Does the end of the muffler look wet , coated in oil?
 
/ GC1705 Will not Start! #42  
The Iseki engine will start but you have to have the right RPM speed and glow plug combination. Im due for a new battery soon, mine is 11 years old...The glow plugs alone draw alot of amps and as soon as you trigger the glow plugs, the fuel pumps starts clicking away for more draw. Chugging description to me is its turning over to slow.

It is a bit stubborn when its 30 20 degrees or colder but I mitigated that issue by using the hot plug on several cycles, oil heater and battery maintainer. All you need is to have the oil heater plugged in for 30 to 40 minutes prior for colder weather. I dont even need to open the throttle at all.
 
/ GC1705 Will not Start! #43  
Once I get the tractor running, it runs great. No power issues, no lag, great performance regardless of temperature. The dealership called me again yesterday and it sounds like they are going to check the plugs again and maybe the compression. Hopefully this time they find something.
 
/ GC1705 Will not Start! #44  
How long do you run the glow plugs before you try to start from cold and does it seem to make a difference?
 
/ GC1705 Will not Start! #45  
I'll keep them on for 45 seconds sometimes. On my 2310, the first 10-15 seconds seem to do very little; it's after that that the heat begins to add up. If it's really cold, I sometimes activate GPs for a minute or more, let it sit 30 seconds, then repeat, before cranking. I also almost always use my block heater when outside temp is below 35 or so.
 
/ GC1705 Will not Start! #46  
Alright. I got the tractor back from the dealership tonight. 33 degrees Fahrenheit here. I go out, run the plugs for 20 seconds, and try to start it--and it chugs for 8-9 seconds before finally firing. They are telling me from the dealership that is normal GC behavior. I still think it sounds like it can't get enough fuel or something when it is trying to start. They put in a new battery, checked glow plugs, new battery cables, checked compression, and all that. Maybe I am just expecting it to fire up too easy. I do realize it is a little colder right now than when I first started having issues, so maybe it will be better when it warms up outside.
 
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/ GC1705 Will not Start! #47  
If it's normal behavior, why can I start mine at 7F without it chugging at all, let alone for 8-9 seconds?

Your simplest solution at this point may be to grab your ankles, and buy the block heater.
 
/ GC1705 Will not Start! #48  
Alright. I got the tractor back from the dealership tonight. 33 degrees Fahrenheit here. I go out, run the plugs for 20 seconds, and try to start it--and it chugs for 8-9 seconds before finally firing. They are telling me from the dealership that is normal GC behavior. I still think it sounds like it can't get enough fuel or something when it is trying to start. They put in a new battery, checked glow plugs, new battery cables, checked compression, and all that. Maybe I am just expecting it to fire up too easy. I do realize it is a little colder right now than when I first started having issues, so maybe it will be better when it warms up outside.

my 10yr old gc2400 not that bad. I hold glow for a 30 count it rotates and fires for 5 turns or so and starts.
thats at 22 deg night time temp and 25 deg daytime, 36 hrs since last start.
I do have block heater now just have not needed it yet.
maybe the fuel you are using not that good?
 
/ GC1705 Will not Start! #49  
What weight engine oil are you using? Mobil Delvac 0W40/5W40 or similar synthetic can be used all year round. Regular 15W40 will really slow down the cranking speed in the cold.
Another thing to check is if the pump is losing its prime. Cracks on the fuel line going to the pump have been reported. Right where the clamp attaches the intake line to the pump.
It is also possible to have a leak or blockage in the fuel return line going from the right side of the pump going back to tank. The crack can be small enough to let air in, but not let the fuel leak out.
Try spraying some soapy water on the easily accessible lines/fittings before cranking it over, after its been sitting for awhile.
 
/ GC1705 Will not Start! #50  
I keep mine in the garage and if its really frigid then I use the engine block heater. Any moisture at all and you get frozen blocked lines or gelled up fuel but I do recommend engine block heater especially in your state, MN winters can be much worse than Maine winters. The only time I needed to boost the battery was when I had it in the shed for the winter.

Ive only had to use the engine block heater 3 times in 11 years....but as I said before, you have to be turning that engine over at the right RPM for it to catch.
 
/ GC1705 Will not Start! #51  
Alright. I got the tractor back from the dealership tonight. 33 degrees Fahrenheit here. I go out, run the plugs for 20 seconds, and try to start it--and it chugs for 8-9 seconds before finally firing. They are telling me from the dealership that is normal GC behavior. I still think it sounds like it can't get enough fuel or something when it is trying to start. They put in a new battery, checked glow plugs, new battery cables, checked compression, and all that. Maybe I am just expecting it to fire up too easy. I do realize it is a little colder right now than when I first started having issues, so maybe it will be better when it warms up outside.

That's not enough glow plug time.

I do two sets of 30 seconds. Fires right up.
 
/ GC1705 Will not Start! #52  
Nice day out today, so I took my own advice and did some maintenance/inspection on the fuel lines. Replaced the c.3" line from the pump to the return line, inspected the resistor for blockage, and re-installed. Inspecting afterwards, there was fuel seeping from the 3-way connector. Went full throttle and had fuel spraying/misting out of the return line fitting. The line was very loose on the fitting. Cut 5/8" off the end and reconnected, leak gone. I am wondering if the pump was loosing prime, as the GC2300 was becoming hard to start after sitting for a few days, but has always started up immediately after use. Also blew some compressed air through the return line to tank, while the line was off, to ensure there was no blockage. Won't get to freezing here for a few days, let you know how things work out. The hard start has also been reported in 90F weather (atsah in FLA witth a GC1705), his issue was also the return line fitting/lines.
Fuel Line.jpg

ps. 2 different clamps styles used on the fuel lines. Philips head, and Robertson #0 (square drive)
 
/ GC1705 Will not Start! #53  
This is the best style fuel line clamps you can buy... They are rated to hold 60psi fuel injection pressures.... And recommended for all low side fuel injection pressures/draws....

51CkGwFC5QL._AC_SX355_.jpg


Dale
 
/ GC1705 Will not Start! #54  
This is the best style fuel line clamps you can buy... They are rated to hold 60psi fuel injection pressures.... And recommended for all low side fuel injection pressures/draws....

51CkGwFC5QL._AC_SX355_.jpg


Dale
:thumbsup:
Picked up an assortment from Amazon. When the weather gets warmer going to replace all the fuel line clamps. Bunch of maintenance to do. Replace coolant lines, clean all the engine electrical connectors. It's been a bear to start, glow plugs don't seem to be working, have replacements for them as well. Easiest way to start in the cold has been to use a hot air gun on low setting (100' extension cord) blowing into the intake manifold (removed the air filter) while cranking. Starts up like a champ.
 
/ GC1705 Will not Start! #55  
Sounds like a block heater is in your future?
 
 
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