GC 2410 belt change help

[daman1]

Well. Something isn't right. The belt I replaced above is already getting chewed up somehow. It's now only 3/8" wide and was super loose when I was readying the tractor for winter. All the pulleys seem to be lined up correctly. At least looking at it by eye. I mean it's just crank, water pump, alternator. And you can't really put too much tension on the belt.

Any ideas? There might be 40 hours on it since replacement. I mean, I've never experienced this kind of wear on any car I've ever owned. Maybe the upper alternator bracket is flexing under minimal belt tension? It seems thick enough that it shouldn't do that. Maybe I'll have to remove it and check for straightness. Possibly get a thicker one made?

Does it look like the belt is hitting something, it must be contacting something because everything sure looks like it's lined up properly you're going to have to thoroughly inspect around the whole circumference of the belt path see if you can see anything

 

[Racer4]

Belt isn't hitting anything. Water pump isn't seized. Tractor runs great and isn't overheating. I just blew a heavy, wet snow out of the driveway yesterday and all was good.

 

[richief]

I am new here but getting to know a GC2610 quickly. Did you get exact part number on the new belt, or just match it up by length? An earlier contributor on this thread reported not using a cogged drive belt, resulting with only a few hours service before failure. My belt is made by mitsuboshi (RECMF1340) which is m10 x 865, but tomorrow I will be putting a Gates 7340 on my GC2610, which is 11mm x 865mm. I also cross refferenced the original belt to a Volvo 973535 cogged V-Belt (9.5x850mm), and a AVX 10X865 Continental ContiTech, which is exact size as original. The original belt rode sorta deep in the pulley, so I am reckoning a biteen wider will suit this job. I will let yee know if it rides too high, or does not hold up over time, and that shouldn’t be very long as I have a list of projects, weather permitting.

 

[Racer4]

I am new here but getting to know a GC2610 quickly. Did you get exact part number on the new belt, or just match it up by length? An earlier contributor on this thread reported not using a cogged drive belt, resulting with only a few hours service before failure. My belt is made by mitsuboshi (RECMF1340) which is m10 x 865, but tomorrow I will be putting a Gates 7340 on my GC2610, which is 11mm x 865mm. I also cross refferenced the original belt to a Volvo 973535 cogged V-Belt (9.5x850mm), and a AVX 10X865 Continental ContiTech, which is exact size as original. The original belt rode sorta deep in the pulley, so I am reckoning a biteen wider will suit this job. I will let yee know if it rides too high, or does not hold up over time, and that shouldn’t be very long as I have a list of projects, weather permitting.

I used an AGCO belt, which was a Mitsuboshi. My problems is the belt keeps getting skinnier and thus looser, as I use the tractor.

 

[richief]

I used an AGCO belt, which was a Mitsuboshi. My problems is the belt keeps getting skinnier and thus looser, as I use the tractor.

I have had experience with running slipping belts in the past, that the final cure was a new pulley. Slipping belts will wear a pulley. With that in mind on this small pulley and with a lathe, a fella can recut the the proper angle and run a 1mm wider belt. Prob easier than sourcing the pulley.

 

[richief]

So I went at the fan belt today, the Gates 7340 just went on the alternator with a lil help turning the water pump pulley, like mounting a tire. Rides at the top of pulleys and there is almost full travel of adjustment left. Next I removed pinch bolt from yoke at the hst, slid forward off of tranny splines, then slid it back and to the side, out of universal yoke @ engine. I removed lower dash panel and 4 screws to remove the screen @ tunnel, forward of floor board. Then just loosened alternator adjustment bolt and pivot bolt. At this point i was able to route the old belt over fan blades then down and rearward through cutout in radiator support panel. Then from tunnel where screen is removed, pull the old belt out and fish new belt forward and around u-joint yoke. I installed belt and then reconnected a newly greased shaft to yoke @ engine. I did paint mark the shaft and yoke, so even though i turned engine slightly getting the new belt on, I had no trouble indexing shaft, in fact I see no variation of splines, but my reading research said there may be, however it was a lot of manhandling to get perfectly perpendicular on initial rejoining of shaft to yoke, as the shaft is at an angle now, horizontally, rather than eyeballing a straight line front to back. The rear of shaft isn’t indexed except that on assembly i rotated to have easy pinch bolt access. Reinstalled the dash tunnel screen and dash panel to complete the job. It runs good and no slipping. Thank God, as I was afraid I may have done damage when it over heated. I couldn’t find my oil filter but will change oil and probably coolant too, before working it.

 

[CarlGlas]

After 18 years, the belt on my GC2300 has been adjusted for the last time. I bought a replacement belt (Gates 7340) and had intended to replace it but as you may know, it's not an easy task. Then, I found out about Accu-Link belts. There are quite a few videos on YouTube with tractor owners using them so I bought one on Amazon for under $30 and replacing the old worn-out belt is as simple as raising the hood.

 

[ray66v]

There have been versions of adjustable belts since at least the 1970's.

I have never considered them a permanent fix, but they are no doubt better today.

Keep us informed on how you do with it.

 

[Dmacleo]

one youtube channel I watch (dirtperfect) used it on a (iirc deere 850j) dozer and it seemed to work well.
worse case is try it and if it fails then pull driveshaft and replace with oem belt I guess.

 

[ray66v]

worse case is try it and if it fails then pull driveshaft and replace with oem belt I guess.

Worst case is actually, it fails at a really bad time, and or takes out the radiator when it lets go.

fortunately, we have CarlGlas stepping up, and volunteering to be a team MF test pilot.

I think we would all agree, that if it lasts 5 years, it's a fix?

I'll go on the record saying, I believe it will work that long.