GC 2410 belt change help

[Racer4]

Hi all. New member here with a few questions. I cross posted this on another forum, but have gotten no replies.

I have a 2410 that is very close to needing a belt. The original factory belt is only 5/16" wide and has stretched to the point where I'm out of adjustment at the alternator and it is getting loose again. It will squeal if the snowblower chute rotation gets stuck or after a long glow plug/start session. I picked up a new o.e. belt almost 2 yrs ago just because dealer is so far away and I wanted a spare. Well now it's time. BTW, the new belt is almost 7/16" wide and much heavier than the old one. And should hold tension longer and last longer. Should have been on there to begin with instead of that skinny one on there now.

Just wondering what the best approach is to this or any tips if anyone has done this. Looks like the driveshaft has to be disconnected to get belt onto crank pulley and looks to be difficult to get to. There are 3 bolts holding it to crank pulley flange. Is the best course to pull rad, battery, fan and shroud to gain access to top of driveshaft, or am I missing an easier way?

Probably a good time to change out coolant if the rad has to come out, no? Any recommendations on type,. I've got 5 different kinds in my garage (only one is green like o.e.). Surely one will be right?

Thanks for your help!

 

[irvingj]

I have yet to change mine, but you're right!

Just went out & looked at it, then went to the service manual -- here's a quote: "To remove the fan belt, disconnect the drive shaft between the HST unit and the engine. The driveshaft can be accessed from under the tractor."

As far as coolant, all the Owner's Manual says is to use "a 50-50 mixture of ethylene glycol and water." That's it. (i.e., not propylene glycol.)

So, new member -- welcome! Where ya from?

 

[Racer4]

Thanks irvingj!

I'm from northeast PA.

I didn't crawl under the tractor yet to see about accessing the driveshaft, I just noticed from the top that there is a cross member directly below the crank pulley flange. I'm guessing there is room to work above the cross member accessing it from the rear of the tractor. That would eliminate removal of rad, fan etc and simplify the job. I'm coming up on my 250hr service in about 3 hours, which will probably be this week if we get the snow they're forecasting. I have all the filters and just have to gather the oil.

I've read where people are recommending using some kubota hydraulic oil. That would be great b/c the nearest kub dealer is only 10mins away. I used mahindra oil at the 50hr change (because my m/f dealer told me to) and have had no issues so far. That dealer is now closed, but if kub oil is better, I can get that, Or I can get oil from tractor supply. I'll have to look at my coolant selection, I've got 2 VW coolants, 1 toyota, 1 dex cool, and 1 ford and an "add to all types" green. I will check formulation of those. I'm guessing I should probably just get a straight green conventional for it.

I went with a 5w40 diesel oil last time because of cold starting difficulties with 15w40, but that was before I got the block heater. Should I try to run the 15w40? Thanks.

 

[Racer4]

My mistake on the oil, I used Shell Rotella T5 10w30 last time. Just picked up another jug today at walmart. Looked for antifreeze there but everything was pre diluted and I don't do that stuff. I'll stop at Napa later this week to get some good quality antifreeze.

 

[Racer4]

Was able to get a better look underneath and there is 0 room to access that front part of the driveshaft from underside. The cross member plate starts at the rear of the engine and is solid 20" back from there, front of shaft can't even be seen. Maybe the tlb frame has extra support? I don't know. It's right where the loader mounts bolt on.

 

[irvingj]

I had forgotten, but again you're right. The TLB supports pretty well cover that up on the underside!

I remembered, however, back in 2018, I discovered I had broken all four engine mounts -- the rubber had come un-bonded. That was quite a project, but I was able to change all 4 of them without having to pull the engine. What I did when I wanted to check the HST driveshaft engagement (the entire engine had shifted), was to access that area from above, beneath the floor in the center area.

Begin by removing the plastic side panels under the hood (maybe front grille, too), then the plastic panel in the middle under the instrument panel. Under that, there are several metal panels --and a screen-- that can be pulled to expose the HST driveshaft, at least on my 2310. I bet the 2410 is similar. My memory's not real clear on the rest, but I was able to access the plastic cooling fan (the one that sometimes gets broken) & HST driveshaft. A right angle socket driver is helpful on some of those bolts. You may also want to clean that whole area out -- mine had a ton of debris in there.

PS-- I disconnected the shaft at the small fan end -- once you pull one locking bolt & nut off at the fan, the splined shaft will slip off (last pic), then you can slip the shaft out of the other end to remove it.

Here are some pics, hope this helps --

 

[Racer4]

Thanks irvingj. That's exactly what I needed to see. I didn't realize the driveshaft came out that way, or that it could be slid out of crank pulley end on the spline shaft.

 

[daman1]

Probably a good idea to put some grease on them spline ends when you put it back together

 

[kenmbz]

Racer, good luck with the belt change and welcome to TBN!

 

[Racer4]

Probably a good idea to put some grease on them spline ends when you put it back together

Mine look almost the same as the ones in the pic above, so yes they will be getting greased up thoroughly. I found all my parts from a dealer in my state that will ship all my parts and the fluids (all agco) to me. They had everything in stock except the trans filter (which I already have 1). Although not my local dealer (which is almost 1.5hrs away), they were very helpful and said I should have it in a couple days.