Gas Fireplace Logs

[TnWV]

How do you have "free" natural gas?

The main natural gas pipeline for our area crosses the longest part of my property. Its been there for alot of years and my grandparents worked it into the lease when the gas company installed the pipeline. It is only good for the original home or home that replaces the original home. The only negative is that I cannot build within 10 or 20 feet of the line, but that is fine by me. As of last year, my home is now the only residence on the property so I get the free gas. As my hot water tank, stove, dryer, and anything else I can run on gas, go out they will be replaced with gas appliances.

 

[kenmac]

The main natural gas pipeline for our area crosses the longest part of my property. Its been there for alot of years and my grandparents worked it into the lease when the gas company installed the pipeline. It is only good for the original home or home that replaces the original home. The only negative is that I cannot build within 10 or 20 feet of the line, but that is fine by me. As of last year, my home is now the only residence on the property so I get the free gas. As my hot water tank, stove, dryer, and anything else I can run on gas, go out they will be replaced with gas appliances.

If I had that deal. I would install an NG generator large enough to power the entire house:thumbsup:

 

[JB4310]

If I had that deal. I would install an NG generator large enough to power the entire house:thumbsup:

And a natural gas powered tractor and truck

Do you even have a meter TnWV?

JB

 

[TnWV]

Yes I do have a meter. I get a bill every month that states usage and there actually is a few cents per cfm charge, but some how I have $36 credit right now. I have paid s few bills that were between 6-8 bucks but they always end up getting credited back to me. I need to read the lease again. Anyway, I never pay more than a few bucks a year for gas, so i just call it free gas. When I build my new house eventually it will be all gas and include a gas generator that will be capable of powering the whole house.

 

[JB4310]

Yes I do have a meter. I get a bill every month that states usage and there actually is a few cents per cfm charge, but some how I have $36 credit right now. I have paid s few bills that were between 6-8 bucks but they always end up getting credited back to me. I need to read the lease again. Anyway, I never pay more than a few bucks a year for gas, so i just call it free gas. When I build my new house eventually it will be all gas and include a gas generator that will be capable of powering the whole house.

I'd call that free gas too, I think what kenmac was getting at was to run the house's electric needs off the generator full time and avoid having an electric bill. Not sure the gas company would go for that. Plus a genny like that is not cheap, Could take years of no electric bill to pay for it.

I would scrutinize that lease with a lawyer (if needed) to maximize the benefit to you.

JB

 

[TnWV]

I'd call that free gas too, I think what kenmac was getting at was to run the house's electric needs off the generator full time and avoid having an electric bill. Not sure the gas company would go for that. Plus a genny like that is not cheap, Could take years of no electric bill to pay for it.

I would scrutinize that lease with a lawyer (if needed) to maximize the benefit to you.

JB

Running the whole house off a generator full time would be nice, but without haveing a lawyer read my lease I would be afraid that would somehow violate it and I could lose the good deal I do have. The idea for me is to use gas for all heating related appliances (furnace, stove, hot water, dryer, etc.). Doing this will minimize the electric bill anyway. I could not use the "free gas" on my home do to the original house still being occupied when I first moved it in, so im just getting started changing over to gas now that it is available to me.

 

[meadowlarkponds]

Just installed the Vanguard vent-free gas logs in an existing old fireplace. It is wonderful so far...runs on propane. I got the remote, but doubt its worth the extra money.

The main reasons for going with gas logs was as a back-up heat source(heat pump primary) and the fact that after years of burning wood in the fireplace, I'm ready for an easier route.

I researched the topic a good bit and the vent free is the right choice for heat and the vent more for appearance....although I'm very pleased with the appearance on the Vanguard vent free while burning.

We generally have mild winters in East Texas so I'm anticipating only limited use of the gas logs, but that may change cause it it so convienient.

 

[JB4310]

Just installed the Vanguard vent-free gas logs in an existing old fireplace. It is wonderful so far...runs on propane. I got the remote, but doubt its worth the extra money.

The main reasons for going with gas logs was as a back-up heat source(heat pump primary) and the fact that after years of burning wood in the fireplace, I'm ready for an easier route.

I researched the topic a good bit and the vent free is the right choice for heat and the vent more for appearance....although I'm very pleased with the appearance on the Vanguard vent free while burning.

We generally have mild winters in East Texas so I'm anticipating only limited use of the gas logs, but that may change cause it it so convienient.

That was actually not even on the radar screen for me, but now with this latest storm and 3 million people without electricity in New England. I think that could be a deciding factor.

Anyone who has a fireplace and doesn't keep a decent supply of firewood around should have a gas log for emergencies.

Where do you get Vanguard?

JB

 

[JB4310]

Update:

I got a gas log set from Lowes, only $240. a 100 pound propane tank and 2 stage regulator, and 25 feet of flex line. About $600. for everything.

Installed it today, this was a learning curve for me since I never had a gas appliance of any kind. My case was a little tricky getting the line in thru the back of the chimney in the basement and up thru the ash dump. but I made a custom termination plate to fit and seal the ash dump opening.

tried it out tonight and it was pretty nice, the flame is not real high but is ok, but man it does make some heat, raised the room temp 6 degrees in an hour, plus the heat went up the stairs and 2nd floor hallway.

It was making the wood work and mantel very hot to the touch, even though they met all the minimum distance requirements. and just the slightest smell. Not a bad smell, but more a hot smell, could be due to the first use.
This was with the damper completely closed tight. I think if I crack it slightly, it will help with all those issues.

Only cell phone pics

JB

 

[kenmac]

I know that different size logs have different clearances to combustible mat. but that wood looks close to the opening to me. They make a heat deflector shield (black or brass )you can purchase to divert the heat away from your mantle

 

[ragkar]

If you have vented logs, you had better open that damper for your own safety. Also I recommend that you get a carbon monoxide detector.

I've had non-vented logs for about eight years. Last year I decided to buy a 55 inch tv and mount it on the wall above the fireplace. But I was concerned about heat affecting the electronics. So I got an indoor-outdoor digital thermometer and taped the probe onto a broomstick. then I probed around the area there the tv was going to be mounted 3.5 feet above the fireplace opening..

It's hard to tell, but it looks like your mantle is flush with the wall. Mine has a seven inch offset from the wall and that helps keep the updraft off the tv.

 

[JB4310]

I know that different size logs have different clearances to combustible mat. but that wood looks close to the opening to me. They make a heat deflector shield (black or brass )you can purchase to divert the heat away from your mantle

They recommend a hood if your combustibles fall below the minimum clearances, but mine are supposed to be good. 8 inches to the wood and 20 inches for a mantel that sticks out 6 inches, may have to consider the deflector though. or just crack the damper.

If you have vented logs, you had better open that damper for your own safety. Also I recommend that you get a carbon monoxide detector.

I've had non-vented logs for about eight years. Last year I decided to buy a 55 inch tv and mount it on the wall above the fireplace. But I was concerned about heat affecting the electronics. So I got an indoor-outdoor digital thermometer and taped the probe onto a broomstick. then I probed around the area there the tv was going to be mounted 3.5 feet above the fireplace opening..

It's hard to tell, but it looks like your mantle is flush with the wall. Mine has a seven inch offset from the wall and that helps keep the updraft off the tv.

This is definitely vent less, sorry I didn't mention that.
32,000 btus. alot of heat pours out the top of the fireplace.

I do have a co detector in that room. I'm a little paranoid about gas, I may turn off the tank every night, but that's a big inconvenience. Everyone has them with the pilots on year round probably.

11 inch WC or about 0.8 psi I think.

JB

 

[k0ua]

It would be a good idea for the gas supplier to test the connections, they can test for leakage at the tank with a sensitive instrument. Or so mine said, he put it on for a period of time when I finished my installation and said all is well. I had tested it with air for a period of a week and it held the pressure I put in it. Of course this was before the hookup of the appliances. I tested all the connections again myself with soap solution anyway. My tank has not been turned off for several years now.. by the way there is some smell from the logs themselves for about 12 hours or so.

James K0UA

 

[JB4310]

It would be a good idea for the gas supplier to test the connections, they can test for leakage at the tank with a sensitive instrument. Or so mine said, he put it on for a period of time when I finished my installation and said all is well. I had tested it with air for a period of a week and it held the pressure I put in it. Of course this was before the hookup of the appliances. I tested all the connections again myself with soap solution anyway. My tank has not been turned off for several years now.. by the way there is some smell from the logs themselves for about 12 hours or so.

James K0UA

How about a sediment trap, do you have one?
All the illustrations show a sediment trap close to the appliance.

I just hooked this up with a flex line right to the tank for now to see if I even liked it, so there are no connections in the house except at the fireplace.

I will probably bring in black pipe all the way to the chimney, and just use the flex inside the chimney.

How to you connect to your regulator, from the house pipe, a rubber line?
And do you have a shut off out side, so you don't lose pressure when you change tanks? (maybe you have the LP delivered) took 20 minutes to purge the line with just holding the pilot button, A big PITA I don't want to have to do every time.

Also in my directions they show the regulator vertical on the side of the tank instead of just horizontal, attached to the tank valve. Showing the vent downwards, any idea how important that is?

Sorry for all the questions

Thanks JB.

 

[k0ua]

Ok let see how many of these I can answer:

How about a sediment trap, do you have one?nope, is it a good idea, yep.
All the illustrations show a sediment trap close to the appliance.

I just hooked this up with a flex line right to the tank for now to see if I even liked it, so there are no connections in the house except at the fireplace. my conncections are black pipe all thru the house, I went to 3 appliances, with shut off valves for each and an extra T and a shut off valve in line in front of it also. it punches thru the wall and stubbed pointing down. The gas company brought 5/8 copper from the tank to this connection (about 6 foot)and they made this final connection.

I will probably bring in black pipe all the way to the chimney, and just use the flex inside the chimney.

How to you connect to your regulator, from the house pipe, a rubber line? 5/8 copper, done by gas company.
And do you have a shut off out side, so you don't lose pressure when you change tanks? just the one on the tank(maybe you have the LP delivered)Yes took 20 minutes to purge the line with just holding the pilot button, A big PITA I don't want to have to do every time. have gas delivered when down to below 20%

Also in my directions they show the regulator vertical on the side of the tank instead of just horizontal, attached to the tank valve. Showing the vent downwards, any idea how important that is? I dont know, ask the gas company, they set the tank 120 gallon and made all outside connections, but I can tell you my regulator is Horizontal.

Sorry for all the questions no problem.. hope that helps James K0UA


Thanks JB.

 

[JB4310]

Ok let see how many of these I can answer:

Thanks,

JB

 

[k0ua]

Thanks,

JB

your very welcome

James K0UA

 

[JB4310]

I ran it a couple of hours last night, it seems to be the right fit for my needs/ wants. Definitely does not get to hot in the living room, that was one thing I was worried about, it gets to about 74 degrees. It looks good too.

It has not been that cold the last couple of days, but I can see by running it last night, you don't feel real hot even right in front of the fireplace, but the heat is pouring out the front going straight up to the ceiling, warms the room slowly then is circulating thru the house. not to hot in any one place but is raising the temp up, even upstairs. Overnight it was below freezing but the house was not that cold this morning to even need the central heating system. So it may actually save a little on our oil heat bill.

I've got the damper/flue cracked about 1/4 inch, which seems to have eliminated most of the perceptible "smell" which is really not a bad smell, but was just something noticeable in the air.

This homes heating system and needs are a little out of the ordinary. 75 year old house with 12 inch thick walls on the first floor, 2 courses of brick and plaster interior. Steam heating system that only goes on twice a day, morning and late afternoon, but stays on for over an hour each time, so we use as much oil as an average house this size.

The temps in the house are weird too, it will never drop below low 60's even on the coldest overnight, so it holds temperature fairly, well for surviving anyway, but never feels toasty warm either though, unless the the heat is on. So I think this gas-log will help make it toasty when we want it between the central heating systems cycles, like the middle of the day or in the evening.

JB