Gas air compressor

[rustyshakelford]

Do tractor work on the side. Mainly shredding pastures, grapple work and box blading. Ordered a new tractor that'll come in February. Getting serious about getting a gas powered air compressor for my trailer to blow out radiators, filters and screens with and also make changing flat tires on he trailer quick and painless. Will prolly use in my shop when I need big air for cut off wheels or bigger impacts.

Wanting to get y'all's advice. Won't be used commercially and maybe on a busy week 2 hrs a week.

Harbor freight 30 gallon truck mount for $1099-18 cfm@90
Tractor supply IR 30 gallon truck mount $1899-24@90
Kellogg with Kohler 30 gallon truck mount $1800-21 cfm@175

All come with electric start. Hesitant to buy used due to unknown hours/maintenance and near new prices. Which do you think would fit what I'm wanting. Looked at wheel barrow style and if I'm spending this much I want more cfm

Brett
__________________

 

[rustyshakelford]

Forgot one.

Northern tool 30 gallon truck mount Honda motor for $1899--24.3 cfm@90
Also have a $300 gift card here so the price would be $1599

4 year warranty and free klutch 1" impact if bought this month

Brett

 

[1stDeuce]

If you have the trailer wired with a battery for the winch, or could add constant 12v from the truck's trailer connector, you might consider a ~3-5 gallon tank and an electric compressor. I have a Viair 400c mounted in my truck, and it's pretty dang fast... I add a 1 gallon tank on a short hose off the bumper and use it with framing and trim nailers occasionally, as well as for airing up tires. My little tank will run an impact, but you have to wait a few seconds for it to recharge between lug nuts. A 3-5 gallon tank would run an impact with little fuss, give you bead-seating air volume, and probably not take up much space.

I only suggest this because, while I like things with spark plugs, you have to maintain them... The electric compressor setup is maintenance free, and will always work when you need it.

And I suppose the added bonus is that it's WAY WAY WAY cheaper than a gas powered compressor... Ouch!!
Good luck!!

 

[1stDeuce]

Oh, I missed the part about using it in the shop... 12v setup doesn't do you any good there. But you can get a bigger electric there for 1/3 the cost of the gas unit, and still be ahead...

 

[rustyshakelford]

You make a great point about using an elec compressor and small tank off my truck and buying a separate compressor for the shop. However, with my limited use, I'm not very worried about maintenance of another motor.

What I really look for is something that will work when I need it and make my life easier. I can't stand being broke down and then having tool issues on top of things. I already have a decent shop compressor but it runs constantly with a cut off wheel and starts to slow down work. With one big compressor I can set it outside under the lean to and still be on the trailer covered and just run the hose to my inside reel. Atleast that's what I'm thinking.

I'm so torn in what to do. At these prices, I could get a lift for my shop but won't have anything for the tractor which makes some money

Brett

 

[Fallon]

IR or the Kellogg, more than Harbor Freight, but better quality. 12v will take hours to fill a tractor tire, they are to small for real use. You may consider a cordless leaf blower for cleaning radiators safer & easier.

Im in the process of rebuilding a 5hp single phase Saylor Beall 705 that is from the 70's or 80's. Thought about trying to get a bigger pump to help with sandblasting & making it PTO powered. Not sure if i'll ever get to it once the 705 is online.

 

[jenkinsph]

I have an Ingersol-Rand T30 truck tire compressor that I bought new in 1998. Mounted it on my service truck for operating impact wrenches and grinders in ditch work. It worked out very well for my uses. This is the horizontal 30 gallon tank, two stage with a Kohler 11 hp engine electric start. The newer models I see with Honda engines available too. These are available with about 18 to 24 cfm and up to 175 psi. plenty of air for most tools and more than you need for tire maintenance in most cases. Lots of these seen on mechanic's trucks and some of the builders are using the tanks separated and mounted up out of the way.

I use it for my shop and found that it is easier to simply run an air line off the truck than to remove it. Now that I am doing more tractor work and closing out the plumbing and mechanical work I am in the process of building a new body for one of the F550's. Trying to decide between mounting this compressor or a 2hp. electric Thomas pancake compressor for the tire filling you describe. While the smaller compressor has its merits the larger units are much better for large impact tools.

I also have a Miller Trailblazer gas driven welder/genset, a Onan 5.5 kw diesel genset, a Honda 3kw 3000Is genset, a Honda 2000Is genset. So powering remote jobs has been no problem. With a suitcase mig, long leads for stick work, cutting torch and other tools I can get most work done in the field. After 26 years of this work I have found out that you can over do the set up for field work. While this equipment was fine for the prior service work I did you don't need this much for tractor work. You need to be able to air up tires and have a blow gun as you mention but in 99% of the cases the larger work would be better done back at the shop.

I suspect that I will wind up with the pancake compressor, diesel genset mounted on my truck for daily use. The genset is plumbed into the truck fuel tanks so a gas can is not needed. When dust is a problem I have a Stihl back pack blower I can add on.

While this is more than you want to read or hear I did this to lead up to what I would buy if starting from scratch. For the truck I would go with a Honda 3000Is genset (140 lbs.) and a pancake compressor. About 200 lbs. total weight and a smaller footprint, very close in money to a larger gas driven compressor but more useful in 99% of the cases. For shop use a stationary electric compressor and welder is quieter and cheaper to maintain. Their is very little need for portable welding gensets and larger portable air compressors for tractor work unless you have a fleet of equipment. A cheap small microwave, coffee pot is more useful for winter jobs in the boon docks.

 

[Sawyer Rob]

Here's another vote for buying a "quality" generator (I prefer Honda) and a smaller portable compressor... AND I already do have a gas powered compressor.

If I was doing it over, I'd just put the money into a generator first, as then I could use it for hundreds other uses...

I bought the generator "after", I should have just bought "it" in the first place.

SR

 

[rustyshakelford]

I have an Ingersol-Rand T30 truck tire compressor that I bought new in 1998. Mounted it on my service truck for operating impact wrenches and grinders in ditch work. It worked out very well for my uses. This is the horizontal 30 gallon tank, two stage with a Kohler 11 hp engine electric start. The newer models I see with Honda engines available too. These are available with about 18 to 24 cfm and up to 175 psi. plenty of air for most tools and more than you need for tire maintenance in most cases. Lots of these seen on mechanic's trucks and some of the builders are using the tanks separated and mounted up out of the way.

I use it for my shop and found that it is easier to simply run an air line off the truck than to remove it. Now that I am doing more tractor work and closing out the plumbing and mechanical work I am in the process of building a new body for one of the F550's. Trying to decide between mounting this compressor or a 2hp. electric Thomas pancake compressor for the tire filling you describe. While the smaller compressor has its merits the larger units are much better for large impact tools.

I also have a Miller Trailblazer gas driven welder/genset, a Onan 5.5 kw diesel genset, a Honda 3kw 3000Is genset, a Honda 2000Is genset. So powering remote jobs has been no problem. With a suitcase mig, long leads for stick work, cutting torch and other tools I can get most work done in the field. After 26 years of this work I have found out that you can over do the set up for field work. While this equipment was fine for the prior service work I did you don't need this much for tractor work. You need to be able to air up tires and have a blow gun as you mention but in 99% of the cases the larger work would be better done back at the shop.

I suspect that I will wind up with the pancake compressor, diesel genset mounted on my truck for daily use. The genset is plumbed into the truck fuel tanks so a gas can is not needed. When dust is a problem I have a Stihl back pack blower I can add on.

While this is more than you want to read or hear I did this to lead up to what I would buy if starting from scratch. For the truck I would go with a Honda 3000Is genset (140 lbs.) and a pancake compressor. About 200 lbs. total weight and a smaller footprint, very close in money to a larger gas driven compressor but more useful in 99% of the cases. For shop use a stationary electric compressor and welder is quieter and cheaper to maintain. Their is very little need for portable welding gensets and larger portable air compressors for tractor work unless you have a fleet of equipment. A cheap small microwave, coffee pot is more useful for winter jobs in the boon docks.

Great read and info. I already have a Miller bobcat efi and that puts out 12kw so big enough for just about any compressor. I already have a cheap pancake compressor so I guess I'm good to go as it is...well until I figure out what works for me but atleast this will keep me going.

Here's another vote for buying a "quality" generator (I prefer Honda) and a smaller portable compressor... AND I already do have a gas powered compressor.

If I was doing it over, I'd just put the money into a generator first, as then I could use it for hundreds other uses...

I bought the generator "after", I should have just bought "it" in the first place.

SR

I have the bobcat for backup power at home and remote welding or welding outside and it's really windy. Stays in the shop. The Hondas are real nice but afraid they might grow legs if I'm not careful.

Brett

 

[jenkinsph]

I would add that most places I work will have a place to plug in for 120v power. That and a portable air tank that is easy and light to carry will cover the tires in most cases.

 

[rustyshakelford]

Appreciate all the replies and everyone seems to be stuck on the tires. I'm wanting to be able to run a big/bigger impact to expedite tire changes on my trailer along with providing air for my 20 ton jack. I hate being stuck on the side of the road and like to be back on it asap

Brett

 

[jenkinsph]

Appreciate all the replies and everyone seems to be stuck on the tires. I'm wanting to be able to run a big/bigger impact to expedite tire changes on my trailer along with providing air for my 20 ton jack. I hate being stuck on the side of the road and like to be back on it asap

Brett

If you have enough issues with tires on your trailer I recommend you address that directly. May need new tires or larger tires and trailer, I try to keep my payloads below the maximum ratings by 20% in most cases. Maybe I am lucky but I have not had a tire fail while on the road in the last 10 years that I can remember. I have had older tires on trailers leak down while parked for weeks at a time.. Changing out the older tires removed that problem.

My backhoe tire was prone to slow leak down and I could not find the leak. It dawned on me one day that the tire may not have been seated fully on the bead. I aired it up to the 25 psi maximum pressure and left it over night. Bleeding it down the next morning to the recommended 16 psi and haven't had an issue since.

 

[4570Man]

My solution was use a leaf blower and cordless impact. Assuming you're starting with the air hose in the tool box and zero pressure in the tank the cordless impact will be faster. Even if you were prepared and already had pressure in the tank I'm guessing the cordless will still be faster.

 

[rustyshakelford]

If you have enough issues with tires on your trailer I recommend you address that directly. May need new tires or larger tires and trailer, I try to keep my payloads below the maximum ratings by 20% in most cases. Maybe I am lucky but I have not had a tire fail while on the road in the last 10 years that I can remember. I have had older tires on trailers leak down while parked for weeks at a time.. Changing out the older tires removed that problem.

My backhoe tire was prone to slow leak down and I could not find the leak. It dawned on me one day that the tire may not have been seated fully on the bead. I aired it up to the 25 psi maximum pressure and left it over night. Bleeding it down the next morning to the recommended 16 psi and haven't had an issue since.

I have brand new tires on the trailer. 8 of them. When you hit road debris or catch a nail at the rated gvw I like to change it. Doesn't happen often but when it does I try to be prepared. One of the benefits with so many tires is it buys you some time to atleast get off the road.

My solution was use a leaf blower and cordless impact. Assuming you're starting with the air hose in the tool box and zero pressure in the tank the cordless impact will be faster. Even if you were prepared and already had pressure in the tank I'm guessing the cordless will still be faster.

Great points. I guess I'm just being a pansy because I have having to jack up my loaded trailer manually and would rather use air. Have elec impact and have used it but I don't have a spare one to leave in the truck and worry about the battery. Mine is several years old and I know they have come along ways.

I'll try blowing my filters out at home with the back pack stihl blower before carrying it with me. I can see how it would work but I wonder how well compared to an air gun

Brett

 

[jenkinsph]

I have brand new tires on the trailer. 8 of them. When you hit road debris or catch a nail at the rated gvw I like to change it. Doesn't happen often but when it does I try to be prepared. One of the benefits with so many tires is it buys you some time to atleast get off the road.



Great points. I guess I'm just being a pansy because I have having to jack up my loaded trailer manually and would rather use air. Have elec impact and have used it but I don't have a spare one to leave in the truck and worry about the battery. Mine is several years old and I know they have come along ways.

I'll try blowing my filters out at home with the back pack stihl blower before carrying it with me. I can see how it would work but I wonder how well compared to an air gun

Brett

You might look at electric/hydraulic jacks for the trailer used on large rv's and makes a good parking brake too.

The Stihl backpack blower (model 600) is better than an air gun for blowing off the tractor, waaaaay faster. It is also safer to use to clean the filters as an air gun concentrates enough force to damage filters. I don't blow out the inner filters on the engines but the outer filters are easily blown out with the 3" nozzle on blower from the inside out.

 

[the old grind]

Add a few bucks to this cost to be able to top it up from your CO2 welding tank. 0-125 psi regulator. For ~10% less, there's a 10 lb model. Refill cost wouldn't be much less.

Power Tank - cat-towman-series 15 lb. Basic System ( Candy Red, Gloss Black, Candy Blue, Team Yellow, Polished) - Powertank.com

 

[4570Man]

If there's a dive shop nearby that would likely be cheaper. I'm not sure what that solves though. A cordless impact and a regular floor jack are the most sensible solutions. If the trailer is too heavy for a light floor jack, a bottle jack is pretty fast and easy.

 

[4570Man]

If the issue is not wanting to be in the the position required to pump a regular bottle jack then this solves the problem.

 

[rustyshakelford]

This is my old truck. Got rid of the Dozer after clearing my place and now the heaviest thing is my tractor and shredder which scaled at 11k and 7700 lbs for the trailer. New tractor that's ordered should be a couple thousand more and I'll be upgrading back into a Dually. Getting a jack under a deck over is a pain especially when it's loaded. Then having To manually jack it up and positioning it to where you can get a good stroke. Your just about laying under the trailer. That's the reason I bought a pneumatic 20 ton jack among other reasons. They like a bunch of air. I don't like having to wait on a compressor to catch up which is the reason I would spend 2k on the 20 cfm compressor. I'd also like to run a sand blaster back in my shop. Another reason for big air.

Brett

 

[ultrarunner]

I've carried a small Thomas Compressor in my Service Van since 1990... it works with a 2200W inverter very nicely.

Does a good job for tiles, blowing out lines and even used it in a pinch for my Senco underlayment stapler.

It would not be good for most pneumatics... although it has cut through some locks and chains with an abrasive wheel.