Game Hoist

   / Game Hoist #1  

FredH

Platinum Member
Joined
Jul 28, 2007
Messages
896
Location
Ruch , Oregon
Tractor
N.H. TC-30
Several years ago , seen something similar to the picture below .
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For the price they wanted , My Brother and Me decided to build our own .

Went to a local steel place that has a lot of recyled steel and purchased what We thought We needed . Some are rated at 300 pounds , while others are rated at 500 pounds . Based upon the size of their tube for 500 pounds , Ours is likely 1000 pounds or better . 2" x .25" wall round tube for main upright and vertical top . Vertical top is also supported by a brace of 4" x 1/2" flat bar , similar to the brace in the picture .
Started with a piece of 2" square tube that was a custom made hitch extension that was made for Me by a shop when I pulled my boat behind my camper . We added a piece of 1/2" plate to that at the end , to which We welded a 12" piece of 2.5" round tube that the 1st section of upright goes into . That 1st section , maybe 3' to 4' long , has a large piece of 1/2" plate welded to it for a electric winch . Then there is a coupler of 2.5" tube that the top section goes into .
The upright sections rotate 360 , thus once game is lifted it can be swung around to rear of vehicle for loading .

This past elk season , scored a 6 x 5 that hanging weight was almost 400 pounds without head and hide . Thus while hanging on the hoist while skinning , likely exceeded 500 pounds . Hoist No problem , H.F. winch , think it is the 2000 pound winch ??? , Well not so much . Got it almost all the way up , but had to manually lift / help it the last foot or so .

Yesterday , We decided to modify that hoist to make it easier to assemble . Lifting that top section up to drop it into the winch tube was a BI*** , with 3 of Us . Thus We ended up and cut the reciever extentsion , added a piece of 1 3/8" solid rod through out the entire length . Were We cut the extension tube , We welded a 7" x 1/2" round plate to the 1st section and also welded the solid rod to it . On the other piece of the extension , We welded another similar round plate , but did not weld the solid rod to that plate . 1 3/8" holes had been already drilled by My brother in the round plates , thus the rod is solid all the way through . In those round plates , the first has 2 holes , the second has 1 and the 2nd is also notched for 1/3 of the distance . Hard to explain , but the assembly , when installed in my hitch , will now rotate from vertical to a little past horizontal , thus eliminates having to " Lift " anything more than waist high . The 1st plate has those 2 holes , 1 hole for a pin to hold the hoist in a vertical position , the 2nd hole had a pin welded in place to act as a Stop , thus the reason for notching in the 2nd plate . When we lift it to vertical , it will not be able to go completly over the other side , as the second plate hits the stop .

I won't be able to get pictures till next week , but emailed my brother to go out to the shop to take a picture of Our " work " , so hopefully will add one later today .

Anyway , Now for a Question for You electrical and winch load smart ones . Truck is a 2006 dodge ram 2500 with a hemi , thus gas and single battery . I ran , I believe it is #4 gauge wire from the battery all the way to the rear of the truck , maybe say 15' for both wires . Connections at battery are large gauge , soldered connector's . Connection at back is one of these type :
s-l1600.jpg

From there it is also #4 guage to a small connector that I matched for the H.F. winch . Wire coming from winch is maybe 3' long , maybe 12 guage , maybe 10 ???
Winch never seem to " Overheat " just almost stopped near the top ( Like it was at capacity ?? ) . Truck was running the entire time , thus don't think that was a issue . Winch did not have entire cable out , looked like it was at 50% useable cable left . So Would I benefit from installing a second temp. battery in the bed to run the winch , with it being charged by the engine system . A bigger winch would likely be easiest ??? But will the current cable run it ???

We can build stuff , but winch loads , 12 volt electrical loads , etc.... puts me in Brain overload :)


Hopefully will add a picture shortly .

Fred H.
 
   / Game Hoist #2  
He is the one I put together made from iron that was left over from the cultivated build. 2x2x1/4 sq. tube HD! 3/32 cable.20170204_104758_1.jpeg
 
   / Game Hoist #3  
Here's a chart for 12V vs gauge and length of wire for amp draw. Not sure how accurate it is as it was found online.
If you are sure you ran 4 gauge wire 15' it should be good for a 150A - 200A load. Most of the smaller HF winches I've seen come with 6 Ga. wire. Even these small winches can draw well over 100A under load.
Mounting a battery in the bed to supply power to the winch is a good idea. It can be charged by the truck.
I prefer keeping the battery as close to the winch as possible for less line loss. Another chart I looked at says 15' of 4 ga. wire at 12V is only rated for 60 amps.
 

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   / Game Hoist
  • Thread Starter
#4  
Here's a chart for 12V vs gauge and length of wire for amp draw. Not sure how accurate it is as it was found online.
If you are sure you ran 4 gauge wire 15' it should be good for a 150A - 200A load. Most of the smaller HF winches I've seen come with 6 Ga. wire. Even these small winches can draw well over 100A under load.
Mounting a battery in the bed to supply power to the winch is a good idea. It can be charged by the truck.
I prefer keeping the battery as close to the winch as possible for less line loss. Another chart I looked at says 15' of 4 ga. wire at 12V is only rated for 60 amps.

Kind of what I was thinking , since winch did not overheat but then when it slowed or stopped , we shut it off . Hate to buy a bigger winch and have it do the same , so thinking I will go with a remote battery setup that will charge from the engine system .

Here are a couple of pictures of just the base unit that slides into the reciever .

1.jpeg dkphbeknigllcgad.jpeg

Dang thing weighs likely 40 or 50 pounds + , thus We have it the entire set up in components and now We will assemble in the horizontal position then rotate vertical either using the winch or winch and 1 of the many 27' 4000 pound ratchet straps that I have around here . I am the youngest at 57 , thus We be to old for to much manual labor . As they Say " Work Smarter , Not Harder " !!:thumbsup:

Jack : What do You think the capacity of yours is ? This was a average Elk that likely was over the 500 pound limit that the commercial ones are at . Since hanging is was right below 400 with out the head and hide which easily was 100+ pounds . Ours is likely overkill with size of tube , etc... , But Heck , what do they say , " Go Big or Go Home " :cool2:

Fred H.

Picture of 2 of My older Bro's . Been hunting with the one on the left since '77 :thumbsup:
 

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   / Game Hoist #5  
Well the steel is a 1/4" so I can probably hang a cow from there and it won't Bend. I built it because I kill two deer and Butcher them on the floor! So next year I will be ready.
 
   / Game Hoist #6  
Add a pulley at your spreader bar where it attaches to the carcass, sounds like you have plenty of winch cable to make it work.

I would also add some fold down feet/legs so you aren't putting all that weight on your hitch.
 
   / Game Hoist #7  
We are doing something similar for a deer lift/boat winch.Our thoughts are to put a deep cycle battery in the truck bed.Plan on charging as needed but not from the truck.I have a light duty hoist like pictured but plan on putting a leg to the ground.Tried it on the sidexside and it collapsed the suspension.Have an electric winch for the boat and plan on powering off the bed battery.
 
   / Game Hoist
  • Thread Starter
#8  
In the second picture , the " Leg " off to the side that can be seen , is a piece of additional 2" reciever tube welded to a pad that will slip onto the 1 3/8 solid rod that extends out of hitch extension and also slips into the extension thus it makes for quite a brace or " Foot " on the back to hold the weight .
Just talked to My Bro and He agree's that a additional battery is a better option than a bigger winch at this point . Guess I will go that route and see if it works next season :confused3:

Fred H.
 
   / Game Hoist #9  
Add a pulley at your spreader bar where it attaches to the carcass, sounds like you have plenty of winch cable to make it work.

I would also add some fold down feet/legs so you aren't putting all that weight on your hitch.

By adding a pulley and routing the cable back to the frame you are doubling the capacity of the winch.
No need for a bigger winch.
 
   / Game Hoist
  • Thread Starter
#10  
By adding a pulley and routing the cable back to the frame you are doubling the capacity of the winch.
No need for a bigger winch.

That can be Accomplished Real easily . Never even thought of that route . :thumbsup: Thank You :)

Fred H.
 

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