FWD not working

[wv1720]

I need a little help on my Ford 1720. My FWD is not working properly, the front wheels do not engage. Where is the first place I need to start looking for the problem? I suspect something wrong in the linkage, maybe the shift fork/idler gear is not engaging correctly. Can I access this area by removing the top cover? Any ideas? Thanks

 

[Hooked_on_HP]

I would start by draining the oil from the trans. Then remove the lower gear assembly from the bottom of the trans.This is the part the rear of the drive shaft goes into. After loosening this pull it down and slide it off the drive shaft. Look at the gear and make sure it has all the teeth.See if you can turn the drive shaft. If you can and the wheels don't turn the problem is in the front axle. If the front wheels turn when you turn the drive shaft the problem is in the trans. There is no adjustment on the linkage. If you don't have a service manual, get one before going any further.
Bill

 

[wv1720]

Thanks. Thats the first thing I thought about doing. But figured I wouldn't have to drain the oil by going in through the top. I'll pull that gear assy then jack up the front wheels to see if they turn with the shaft.

 

[Hooked_on_HP]

Just checking to see if you got it apart and what you found.
Bill

 

[jinman]

I need a little help on my Ford 1720. My FWD is not working properly, the front wheels do not engage. Where is the first place I need to start looking for the problem? I suspect something wrong in the linkage, maybe the shift fork/idler gear is not engaging correctly. Can I access this area by removing the top cover? Any ideas? Thanks

Your driveshaft to the front wheels probably has a splined sleeve/collar on each end. I'd remove the covers and check to make sure one of those collars has not slipped due to a broken rollpin or something similar. Check the simple stuff first before going to the more complex stuff.

 

[Hooked_on_HP]

Jim, If the 1720 is the same as my 1900 you have to drop the lower gear box to remove the tube that covers the driveshaft and couplers.
Bill

 

[jinman]

Jim, If the 1720 is the same as my 1900 you have to drop the lower gear box to remove the tube that covers the driveshaft and couplers.
Bill

They don't make it easy, do they? Mine has covers on each end of the driveshaft housing. I assumed that all were that way. Bad assumption. . . .

EDIT: Bill, I went to NH's website and looked at the front axle parts diagram (attached). The part that can be removed is 42/43 to see if part 39/40 are in place. I could not find a diagram that shows the rear of the driveshaft, but on my tractor it's the same.

 

[RickB]

The next step after checking the driveline couplers is to remove the 4WD shift cover from the right side of the rear axle center section housing. You can check the shifter, fork and sliding gear before draining ALL the oil and removing the drop box. Draining some of the oil may be required to remove the shifter.

Relative to the driveshaft couplers, after you remove the two parts of the split shield, you can slide the long tube from the drop box housing to examine the rear coupler. The tube seals with an o-ring, but there should be no oil or other surpirses when you slide the tube forward.

 

[wv1720]

Thanks for all the great info guys. I have not had a chance to look at it yet. I have a nice long weekend coming up, hopefully will have some time to do this. I'll be sure to report my findings.

 

[wv1720]

Well, I found my problem. When I bought this tractor a couple of months ago, it was in FWD. It had been driven by an older lady until she passed away. Anyway, I can assume that it had been in FWD for a long time. Anyway, I took the driveshaft off, the front coupler was very worn. The driveshaft side of the coupler was fine. The pinion (#29 in diagram above) side of the coupler was worn completely smooth and the splines on the pinion are worn/rounded to one side.
The coupler is cheap, the pinion is not, $650.00. I will buy a new coupler and see how everything works. If I do need to take the pinion out, is it difficult. Or will it slide out of the axle case by removing the nuts on the pinion?
Thanks.

 

[Hooked_on_HP]

Hopefully the coupler will fix it. The pinion and ring gear come as a matched set and both need to be changed which makes the job more complicated. I know it's not the correct way to fix it but what if you welded the coupler to the pinion. You have nothing to lose since the pinion is shot.
Bill

 

[wv1720]

Thanks for the input HP. Welding the coupler and pinion together was an option I was thinking about.

 

[wv1720]

Well, the option of welding brings up another question. I do not own a welder. I could rent one to do this job. What type of welder would be best. I have welded before with arc welders, very limited experience with MIG/TIG. Any special rod/material to use?

 

[Iplayfarmer]

Well, the option of welding brings up another question. I do not own a welder. I could rent one to do this job. What type of welder would be best. I have welded before with arc welders, very limited experience with MIG/TIG. Any special rod/material to use?

For the cost of renting a welder, you could probably find someone to do it for you. Then you'd have a professionally welded piece.