Fuel line

[stormpetrel]

I was bush hogging last night when I started getting the signs of sucking air. Plenty of fuel in the tank; so I bled the system. Wouldn't run. I'm getting fuel out the injector pump side from both lines, but only one cylinder is getting fuel.

My question is: can the line be cleaned/blown out? Or do I need a new one?

 

[284 International]

If the line is blocked somehow and the injection pump won't push it free, I don't think you'll be able to blow it out with compressed air. The injection pump operates at vastly higher pressure than a home air compressor will provide through a nozzle.

How did you isolate that one cylinder is lacking fuel? Have you determined which cylinder?

By the time the fuel has gone through the filter, injection pump and to the lines, there shouldn't be anything that could block the line. The clearances in the pump are miniscule. I don't see how anything could get through there and be capable of occluding the high pressure line.

 

[clemsonfor]

Bent hard line? Cought on something and bent?

 

[ninefinger]

Could it be an injector failure? Maybe trade places with them and see if the problem moves.

 

[winston1]

If you know you are getting fuel at the injectors on both cylinders it would sound like an injector problem to me. Went back and re read your post and guess I didn't understand it the first time. Are you saying no fuel will come out when you crack the line at the injector?

 

[clemsonfor]

So you can see fuel coming out of the lines on top of the injectors if you crack them there? If so i agree an injector problem.

 

[stormpetrel]

I posted.....then got a little busy. Sorry for the confusion; the injector (fuel) pump was showing fuel at both lines. The rear cylinder did not have fuel. I was able to blow the line out, and the tractor is up and running.

As an aside, that engine is not easy to bleed the air out of!!!! I am very familiar with the process, use the lift pump to make sure the injector pump has fuel, then crack the lines at the pump, then at the injectors. But, even AFTER I have fuel at the cylinders, close the nuts and fire her up, the engine runs briefly and dies. I then have to crank her over for a while with the compression release engaged to get her to fire. It's a pain in the butt, much more difficult than with any of the other diesel engines I have dealt with!!! I always use the compression release, and make sure I have the fuel lever engaged (I only had to make THAT mistake once!!) so she spins freely and sends fuel toward the cylinders. I'm used to engines that fire back up and run, or, at worst, sputter some before they get going good.

 

[California]

You might try the bleeding procedure recommended for YM2000. I thought your fuel system was identical.

Open the left (input) bleed screw at the top of the fuel filter; close it after no more air comes out.

Same at right (output) bleed screw.

Same at bleed screw down on the injector pump inlet banjo.


Using that procedure, I've never had to open the lines on the high pressure side of the injector pump.

 

[YannyMan]

I've never had to do more than the bleed screws at my fuel filter housing. Change my filters every year.

 

[stormpetrel]

Well......it happened again. I removed the line, acid washed it, ran a thin wire through it, blew it out with carb cleaner, and otherwise got the thing squeaky clean. no fuel to the rear cylinder. Just ordered a new ($350) injector pump. Sheesh...........

Funny thing is I had it running fine. This may be the answer to why it was so hard to bleed the air out!!! (very low fuel presssure to that cylinder) Hopefully, she'll bleed much easier in the future:thumbsup:

P.S. Is changing that pump as easy as it looks? Four nuts and off?

 

[clemsonfor]

think there are shims and stuff?

 

[ninefinger]

In a word, no. It is not really a problem a long as you do not attack it like a bull in a china shop. I believe the timing for the pump is determined by the shims so do not even remove them unless that area needs cleaning. They are between the pump and the block. As you ease the pump out of the block be mindful there is a small hairpin clip that keeps a piece of linkage attached to the pump. Here a pair of needle nose pliers are your friend. You should not have a problem as long as you go slow and make deliberate moves. The only stressful part is the hairpin and the fear of dropping it.

 

[clemsonfor]

Is this thing like the injector pump on a modern diesel, meaning like if you got it out of time it can blow the motor up? If so i think it may be worth finding or paying someone to do it. If it cant i see no harm in trying it.

 

[ninefinger]

Is this thing like the injector pump on a modern diesel, meaning like if you got it out of time it can blow the motor up? If so i think it may be worth finding or paying someone to do it. If it cant i see no harm in trying it.

Someone a lot more knowledgeable will have to answer this but my thoughts would be all the pumps are built to the same specs but the machineing of the block at the mounting point would be the variable. Since the linkage is also at a certain spec the pump may need to be spaced out just a bit to work properly. Do not really know, may be completely off base here.

 

[winston1]

In this picture you can see the rack arm that the governor linkage connects to. Yanmar Tractor Parts: INJECTOR PUMP - NEW! If your 2210 is like I think it is you will need to remove a little 4 bolt cover on the side to have some access to the linkage. There is a timing sequence to go through with rolling the engine and fuel squirting out as the crank shaft timing marks are aligned. If mark has gone past pointer-remove shims, if mark has not reached pointer-add shims. This info is coming from a 220/226 manual and may not exactly fit your 2210. Maybe someone has a manual that is closer to yours. I can try scanning and attaching if no one has anything closer. Pictures in my reproduction manual are lousy but text is great.

 

[stormpetrel]

Good information.....thanks!! I ordered the pump from Hoye; I've had very good results asking for advice with other parts I've ordered from them. I'll call and ask 'em how to do it.

It does look pretty simple, aside from the clip and the shims.......