Fuel bleeding the 2310 question.

[etpm]

As the wet season approaches here in the PNW I will be changing all the fluids and filters in the 2310. I have had the tractor only a few months and even though I think the previous owner maintained the tractor fairly well I changed the motor oil and filter. I checked the oil this morning and it is black again so I think it's a good idea to just change everything. I'll do the points and plugs too
Looking in the service manual I see air bleed screws on the fuel filter housing and injector pump. But my tractor doesn't seem to have these. Instead I see a hex head screw, maybe a 14mm hex, that has a coil spring beneath it, on both the filter housing and the injector pump. Could these be the bbreeders maybe I should just push on them to release the air?
Anybody else have these screws?
Thanks,
Eric

 

[HoyeTractor]

Could these be the bleeders maybe I should just push on them to release the air?

You are correct. Just press them in to bleed the air. Some of the newer Yanmar models started using those instated of the regular bleeder screws.

 

[bmaverick]

As the wet season approaches here in the PNW I will be changing all the fluids and filters in the 2310. I have had the tractor only a few months and even though I think the previous owner maintained the tractor fairly well I changed the motor oil and filter. I checked the oil this morning and it is black again so I think it's a good idea to just change everything. I'll do the points and plugs too
Looking in the service manual I see air bleed screws on the fuel filter housing and injector pump. But my tractor doesn't seem to have these. Instead I see a hex head screw, maybe a 14mm hex, that has a coil spring beneath it, on both the filter housing and the injector pump. Could these be the bbreeders maybe I should just push on them to release the air?
Anybody else have these screws?
Thanks,
Eric

Eric, before changing out the 'engine' oil next time, dump in a bottle of Seafoam prior to running the machine to warm up. Next drive till it warms up. Then do the oil change. This should help a good deal to prevent the oil from going all black so soon.

These machines are built to Yanmar and JIS (Japanese Industrial Standards) specifications, so the oil to use is 10W30 diesel grade. Don't use the 15W40, especially now winter is nearing the corner. 15W40 is for old American Iron tractors. Our Japan tractors have less overheat with 10W30, less soot generation with 10W30, and less hard starts with 10W30. It's what Yanmar and John Deere spec'ed for them.

Hoye has a good fuel filter 3-pack. Faster than waiting on NAPA in my town to keep them in stock.

 

[Brokeodie]

Thanks for the idea of the seafoam, but quick question on our tractors they recommend 30w is that not the case or do the different models have different weights?

 

[etpm]

Eric, before changing out the 'engine' oil next time, dump in a bottle of Seafoam prior to running the machine to warm up. Next drive till it warms up. Then do the oil change. This should help a good deal to prevent the oil from going all black so soon.

These machines are built to Yanmar and JIS (Japanese Industrial Standards) specifications, so the oil to use is 10W30 diesel grade. Don't use the 15W40, especially now winter is nearing the corner. 15W40 is for old American Iron tractors. Our Japan tractors have less overheat with 10W30, less soot generation with 10W30, and less hard starts with 10W30. It's what Yanmar and John Deere spec'ed for them.

Hoye has a good fuel filter 3-pack. Faster than waiting on NAPA in my town to keep them in stock.

I used straight 30 weight oil the first oil change because of the warm weather. I'm willing to try the Seafoam but before I do can you tell me why using it will result in less black oil? Fortunately for me when I bought the tractor it came with fuel filters from Hoye. The fellow I bought the tractor from said he got his parts from Hoye and recommended them to me.
Eric

 

[etpm]

You are correct. Just press them in to bleed the air. Some of the newer Yanmar models started using those instated of the regular bleeder screws.

Thanks for the confirmation. I'm wondering if maybe parts of the fuel system have been updated on my tractor because it was built in 1980 or 1981. Do you know when Yanmar started using the newer push bleeders ?
Thanks,
Eric

 

[bmaverick]

Thanks for the idea of the seafoam, but quick question on our tractors they recommend 30w is that not the case or do the different models have different weights?

There are several thread here about the oils to use for summer use. Yes, straight SAE 30W diesel oil works too. It's on the chart. You can do 10W30 as we come to Fall/winter.
I'm not at my computer to quickly post those Yanmar/JD charts.

 

[Brokeodie]

There are several thread here about the oils to use for summer use. Yes, straight SAE 30W diesel oil works too. It's on the chart. You can do 10W30 as we come to Fall/winter.
I'm not at my computer to quickly post those Yanmar/JD charts.

No worries, I believe someone posted the chart on my chat.

 

[etpm]

There are several thread here about the oils to use for summer use. Yes, straight SAE 30W diesel oil works too. It's on the chart. You can do 10W30 as we come to Fall/winter.
I'm not at my computer to quickly post those Yanmar/JD charts.

Yeah, I think it was your chart I used to decide to use straight 30 weight oil for the summer.,once I start using 10W30 oil I will probably just use it forever because the tractor probably won't get used enough to need more than one oil change per year.
Eric