Front snow blade, worried about tractor damage

   / Front snow blade, worried about tractor damage #33  

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   / Front snow blade, worried about tractor damage #34  
   / Front snow blade, worried about tractor damage #35  
Plow ram lines can be plugged into the loader valve ports that control the bucket dump. This is really easy if you have a loader with quick-disconnects. The rams that control the bucket dump should stay in place after being disconnected from the valve, allowing you to set a desired angle before connecting the plow rams. I am referring to single-acting hydraulic rams, these cylinders have one line each, and are used on most snow plows with dual rams.

As a precaution, a pressure relief valve should be plumbed in between the plow rams and the loader valve. This should lessen the chance of damaging the loader or plow if the plow ends snag something.

I should probably also add, for modern loaders with "regen" or "fast dump," you'll need to be very easy on the loader control when tilting the plow side-to-side. Just move the loader stick slightly right or left. If you open that valve too far then "regen" happens and the plow will sort of shudder instead of tilting. What "regen" is doing is filling both cylinders with fluid at the same time, which effectively stops the ram that should be retracting when tilting the plow.
 
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   / Front snow blade, worried about tractor damage #36  
Plow ram lines can be plugged into the loader valve ports that control the bucket dump. This is really easy if you have a loader with quick-disconnects. The rams that control the bucket dump should stay in place after being disconnected from the valve, allowing you to set a desired angle before connecting the plow rams. I am referring to single-acting hydraulic rams, these cylinders have one line each, and are used on most snow plows with dual rams.

As a precaution, a pressure relief valve should be plumbed in between the plow rams and the loader valve. This should lessen the chance of damaging the loader or plow if the plow ends snag something.

I should probably also add, for modern loaders with "regen" or "fast dump," you'll need to be very easy on the loader control when tilting the plow side-to-side. Just move the loader stick slightly right or left. If you open that valve too far then "regen" happens and the plow will sort of shudder instead of tilting. What "regen" is doing is filling both cylinders with fluid at the same time, which effectively stops the ram that should be retracting when tilting the plow.
Economy Kubotas only have regen dump. So wont work for opposed single acting cylinders. You will need to use the lift circuit or a 3rd function. Grand Kubotas have a 4 position bucket valve. Regen dump is first & power dump is all the way to the right. Other economy machines might be regen only as well.
 
   / Front snow blade, worried about tractor damage #37  
Plow ram lines can be plugged into the loader valve ports that control the bucket dump. This is really easy if you have a loader with quick-disconnects. The rams that control the bucket dump should stay in place after being disconnected from the valve, allowing you to set a desired angle before connecting the plow rams. I am referring to single-acting hydraulic rams, these cylinders have one line each, and are used on most snow plows with dual rams.

As a precaution, a pressure relief valve should be plumbed in between the plow rams and the loader valve. This should lessen the chance of damaging the loader or plow if the plow ends snag something.

I should probably also add, for modern loaders with "regen" or "fast dump," you'll need to be very easy on the loader control when tilting the plow side-to-side. Just move the loader stick slightly right or left. If you open that valve too far then "regen" happens and the plow will sort of shudder instead of tilting. What "regen" is doing is filling both cylinders with fluid at the same time, which effectively stops the ram that should be retracting when tilting the plow.

Thanks, great info.
 
   / Front snow blade, worried about tractor damage #38  
get yourself a Caterpillar D10, and not worry about overworking anything!.. you can push down huge trees with that.. the 19 foot blade takes care of snow like it was never there!..:thumbsup:.
 
   / Front snow blade, worried about tractor damage #39  
I have a Kioti CK 25 with a 7 ft blade. I did not use the loader arms I made a attachment similar to a pickup attachment and have the plow directly to the front of the tractor. I do not use the loader arms. I do use the loader hydraulics for the angle and lifting. I let the chain be the float. In the straight ahead position I can get the plow snow to come over the hood. In angle position the tractor tends to go sideways in deep snow. I use a rear blade on the back for counter weight and better traction and plowing out of a corner. I would say plowing is 5 times faster than using the bucket, When it snows I can be in the cab for as much as eight hours. Love the cab and the heater. I do know of parties that have slightly tweaked there loader arms so that influenced my decision to not attach the blade to them.
 
   / Front snow blade, worried about tractor damage #40  
I have a Kioti CK 25 with a 7 ft blade. I did not use the loader arms I made a attachment similar to a pickup attachment and have the plow directly to the front of the tractor. I do not use the loader arms. I do use the loader hydraulics for the angle and lifting....

Hi Ken, I’m interested in more info on your setup. I just purchased a CK2510. I’m going to use my atv with plow this winter, and the CK FEL for bucket cleanup but would like to set up a tractor plow for next year. Thanks much.
 

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