Front Axle Pumpkin Vent

[arrabil]

A) I went out and looked in the garage.... it came with the Front Hitch Kit BM19575. Its part J (Hose Guide) of the kit but doesn't have a Deere part number. I can't find it in JDParts either. Its supposed to be for routing the front implement hoses. But yeah, I use it to route the FEL hoses too.

B) The hose you're pointing to runs to the side of the air intake hose. The air hose is not pinched in the slightest.

BUT, since you ask, the hose (#8) to the left of B goes to the top of the engine to some kind of breather cap (#4) or something. I attached a parts breakdown. That hose is also not pinched, but something there (or somewhere) is leaking like a sieve. I just noticed that today. I attached some pictures of the leak. Any ideas where thats coming from? Wish I could get a better picture but the entire valve cover, top to bottom, is covered in oil. And you can see where its leaking to.

 

[arrabil]

Found the bracket! Its on the 59" Snowblower parts breakdown. Parts #14, #19, and #20 in the attached PDF.

 

[dfkrug]

That hose is also not pinched, but something there (or somewhere) is leaking like a sieve. I just noticed that today. I attached some pictures of the leak. Any ideas where thats coming from?

Either the breather tube is leaking (#8 in your drawing), or your fuel overflow tube
is allowing diesel spillage to land on the valve cover. Your leak looks chronic, so
I lean toward the former.

Maybe you can remove the muffler to see in there, and do a valve
adjustment while you are in there. The muffler is easy to remove.

 

[arrabil]

It isn't diesel spillage no matter how much I'd like that to be the answer.

So you can get the valve cover off without removing the fuel tank? I had the muffler off when I first got it. I just assumed the tractor was ludicrously loud because the muffler had a hole in it or the gaskets were bad. Nope. Turns out the tractor is just that fricken loud.

Did you post pics of the valve adjustment in your 4300 thread? Off to read the tech section on it.....

 

[dfkrug]

So you can get the valve cover off without removing the fuel tank? I had the muffler off when I first got it. I just assumed the tractor was ludicrously loud because the muffler had a hole in it or the gaskets were bad. Nope. Turns out the tractor is just that fricken loud.

Did you post pics of the valve adjustment in your 4300 thread? Off to read the tech section on it.....

I adjusted mine valves with the engine out, which is cheating. It looks like you can remove the valve cover on an installed engine if you get that
muffler out of the way. There was a discussion about that in my 4300
rebuild thread, if you want to search for it.

BTW, if it was your valve cover leaking, you would not see oil on top
of the cover. That gasket is a rubber ring and works well.

Yeah, the tractor is much louder (and stinkier) than my Kioti.

 

[arrabil]

The tech manual says the muffler and air filter housing have to be removed to do a valve adjustment. No mention of the tank. Thankfully!

if it was your valve cover leaking, you would not see oil on top of the cover.

Thats what I thought too. Still, why would oil be coming out of an air breather either? I guess there is a "baffle" in the breather that could deteriorate according the to tech manual. Maybe mine is deteriorated?

I'm gonna order the o-rings and gaskets tomorrow. Hopefully they come in on Tuesday then. Might as well do the valve cover o-ring too. And yeah, I'm happy to see thats an o-ring. I like how newer vehicles are going away from the gaskets. I've had to RTV the ones on my older Fords since they apparently don't make cork gaskets that don't leak.

EDIT: I think I'm gonna do the exhaust manifold gasket too. Wish me luck in the bolts coming out!

 

[RoyJackson]

You're doing a heck of a job, Arrabil!!!

Won't be long until you can tackle that backhoe modification/installation.

 

[Rob-D]

.

EDIT: I think I'm gonna do the exhaust manifold gasket too. Wish me luck in the bolts coming out!

I don't see that as a problem but just to make sure I anti-seize everything here from wheel bolts up on reassembly!

Rob

 

[arrabil]

Thanks Roy.

I installed the front-PTO the other day to see how it would affect the 8B backhoe. Doesn't look like there is anyway to use the 970 mounting method and have the mid-to-front PTO driveshaft installed at the same time. I don't think the subframe rails are far enough apart to get around the 4200 housing either. Which is the long way to say I think I'm going to be copying dfkrug's subframe a lot more closely than I had originally envisioned. Which is probably gonna work out in my favor financially as I have some semi-rare mounting parts for sale now.

I don't see that as a problem but just to make sure I anti-seize everything

I've had enough manifold bolts snap on me to last a lifetime. I approach it now like someone who flinches before they shoot. At least drilling these wouldn't require contortionist skills. I'm probably gonna buy stainless steel replacement bolts AND anti-sieze them.

 

[dcyrilc]

I've had enough manifold bolts snap on me to last a lifetime. I approach it now like someone who flinches before they shoot. At least drilling these wouldn't require contortionist skills. I'm probably gonna buy stainless steel replacement bolts AND anti-sieze them.

Will stainless handle the heat that manifold bolts see?