Ford 4400 restore

[City Farmer]

I've had this tractor for almost 2yrs and now I finally have the time to start getting it in working order. I bought it for the loader and some other parts, then I was gonna scrap it. It runs so good I decided to keep it and fix it. She's far from pretty and needs a LOT. To start: 3PH doesn't work, left wheel seal is bad, steering is completely shot , the electrical needs to be gone through and to many oil leaks to count. To give you an idea of how bad it is, when we were putting it in the garage, it caught on fire(little fire). I have the service manual but I'm sure I'll be picking everyone's brain trying to fix'er up. I have no plans on doing a complete restoration, just make it mechanically reliable/good.
Here's a few shots of the beast.

 

[Kirk-NJ]

I wouldn't send it to the scrap yard. Fix it, use it, sell it. Too many good parts to let that hit the scrap yard.

Kirk

 

[Cvans]

I guess I didn't realize the the trumpets on the rear of those tractors where so big.
I'd fix it up. Looks like it has a lot of potential.

 

[City Farmer]

I guess I didn't realize the the trumpets on the rear of those tractors where so big.
I'd fix it up. Looks like it has a lot of potential.

Those trumpets are 2x bigger than my 3000. I made some headway today.

 

[City Farmer]

I wouldn't send it to the scrap yard. Fix it, use it, sell it. Too many good parts to let that hit the scrap yard.

Kirk

I'm trying but the more I get in to it, the more I find wrong. Hopefully I'll be done in a month maybe two.

 

[Bob77064]

Looks like a good restore project.

 

[City Farmer]

I decided to work from the axle forward. I rebuilt the top cover today, the piston sleeve looked brand new but the o-rings were shot. The hydraulic intake was completely clogged, hydro-exhaust filter was clogged and the bracket was broken, can't get the steering wheel nut off (any ideas). My buddy and bro stopped by and took off some sheet metal off. Its going a lot slower than I want because I about cut my thumb off 2 weeks ago but I'll keep at it.

 

[Cvans]

Looks to me like your making good headway for a guy with only one usable thumb.

 

[Hawkeye3828]

Hey City, I also have a 4400 that looks a lot like yours. It was running when I bought but now is not since I let it sit 3-4 months. Had to put a new gas tank in it, new hoses, cleaned the nuts shells out of the radiator and had it tested(good), and had to redo the wiring(someone had messed it up bad). Got it back together enough to test starting and no spark so I am going to try changing coil first then go from there. Can't figure out why I don't have spark seeing that it ran when I bought. Got juice to the coil. Oh well, will figure it out somehow. Anyway, have a question about yours concerning the fuel delivery. Inbetween my gas tank and my carb is a solenoid valve. It sits on a plate right under the gas tank. Can't figure out why it is there except maybe it was put there to shut off fuel to carb when tractor was not running. Don't think it was original equipment. Does yours have one?

 

[davo727]

Those are good old tractors for sure, I love my 1968 4500. My whole steering system was shot so I converted it to full hydraulic and gutted the steering gearbox and linkage.

 

[City Farmer]

Those are good old tractors for sure, I love my 1968 4500. My whole steering system was shot so I converted it to full hydraulic and gutted the steering gearbox and linkage.

Awesome, That looks great! Do you have a build/repair thread? If not, could you tell us where you got the parts? If your able, A few more pictures would be greatly appreciate too. The front end on mine is completely shot too. I'm thinking I'll spend more money and time trying to fix whats there instead of just ripping/replacing it. Were you able to use the power steering pump for pressure or did you tap in to the tractor hydraulics?

 

[City Farmer]

Hawkeye, I bet your right on the fuel shut off solenoid. Mine doesn't have one but I might consider putting one. Sometimes I forget to shut the fuel off when I'm done using it and it will leak out the carb. The previous owner put an electric fuel pump on mine. I'll be removing it because it runs fine without it.

 

[Soundguy]

Got it back together enough to test starting and no spark so I am going to try changing coil first then go from there.

If you are going to just throw parts at it instead of diagnose it.. as you are doing now. i sugest you sell it and buy a new tractor and save yourself some headaches.

I bet over half the ignition coils sold for old tractors were never .. ever needed.

I have a HUGE fleet of old gassers. I have probably bought ----***** 5 *****---- replacement ignition coils ever...

do some testing.

could be points.. especialyl if it has been setting.

get a real test lamp. many times VOM are not the best for checking power in a kettering ignition system.

VOM has very high input impeadance... too high to be usefull.

 

[LD1]

Dont know where I was that I missed the thread but nice project indeed.

IF I could have found a ford in the 4000-series for near scrap price, I would be working on one of them instead of the 300u I am now.

Those axle trumpets are big cause of the inboard breaks.

Paint is cheap (but time consuming). While you are having it appart, I'd give her a coat of paint. BAsically what I am doing with the 300U. Replacing whatever seals and o-rings that leak, inspecting everything else, paint, and re-assemble. My goal is tight and no leaks. But if you dont clean it up and paint it, If you do sell it, it will look like a leaker for sure.

 

[Hawkeye3828]

Hey Davo727, that is a very interesting conversion. Wouldn't mind doing that myself. I have a question though, "How much did that cost?" If your tractor is a gas would you mind sending a pic of the system from the tank to the carb? Thanks.

 

[Hawkeye3828]

City, I think I am going to take that solenoid out and put a mechanical valve in. Simpler. Is your 4400 a 6v or 12v? Generator or Alternator? If alternator did you install?

 

[davo727]

Here is the steering conversion http://www.mytractorforum.com/showthread.php?t=211740 The parts that I used are listed in the 4th message , not the ones in the first message. Prices: steering valve $343, column $94, actuator cylinder $160. Had all the hydraulic hoses made up at Hufco in Conroe Tx, they are the Parker Hydraulic store here.

I used the power steering pump on the engine and it works fantastic.

 

[davo727]

Couple more pics

 

[City Farmer]

Thank you Davo! I'll be doing the same thing. I really appreciate all of your and everyone else's input. From what I gather you recommend using a 7" cylinder instead of the 8", right? Were you able to fit the cowl back on without to much trouble?

 

[davo727]

Yes on this industrial front axle 7 inches travel is what it needs, you want to get close to the stops but not hit the stops with cylinder travel left or you will break the stop or break the spindle. I would recommend asking Bailey Hydraulic online if they will make you up a 7 inch travel cylinder using the one I used as the starting point.

The cowl fit fine, I did have to fold over the rear seam on the gas tank though. If you use a little longer steering column then you could make your steering valve mount shorter so the valve is lower and it would give you a little more room than mine.