FORD 4000 Not Charging

[Soundguy]

Get a 1 wire alternator off a car and fix it forever .

That would work if he didn't want a tachometer, which is driven off the generator!

OR, he has to buy a NEW dash cluster, and an aux tach drive.. wich is way more $$ than just fixing his generator / regulator.

OR he has to get a delco 10DN alternator with a tach drive and buy an external regulator for thAT 10dn, which again, is more $$ than just fixing his generator and regulator.

For about 120$ and 10 minutes of wrenching he can go in with a new genny and regulator.. if he only needs a rebuilt genny or just a new reg.. the price drops drastically.

soundguy

 

[Soundguy]

An additional thought,after the yet to be determined repair,I believe I will need to polarize again before hooking up the battery cable?Thank again.

I think you got a few things backwards... the battery cables HAVE to be hooked up PRIOR to polarizing... remember.. moving electrons make magnetic fields..

soundguy

 

[Soundguy]

Oh yeah Egon,I've always remembered those Lucas "Father of Darkness" tales. And Iron Horse,this guy isn't going to want an alternator conversion,but it makes good sense to me.In the old days,I believe the Delco 27SI was the popular conversion alternator? Many tanks again.

I would think the delco 10DN would be a more common repalcement as it has the tach drive,,

though a 10SI or 12SI is fine.. in fact.. anything you can make brackets for should charge the battery if the tach wasn't an option.. just get it wired correctly.. I helped a buddy drop a CS-130 into a tractor a while back.. no biggie.. just had to figure out what resistance range it wanted inthe excite line..

soundguy

 

[wedge40]

Had the same problem about six or seven months ago. I went here Voltage Regulator & Cut-out and got a new regulator. But mine was obviously broke. One of the terminals had corroded through. The regulator is located on the firewall next to the battery. Or would have be behind the battery.

Wedge

 

[RobJ]

If it was recently working, a few bangs on the regulator might work. If starts working you can replace it later. This'll free up the contacts if they are stuck.

 

[Soundguy]

Lucas regs are notorious for sticking. the lucas gennies are actually fairly robust.. but the regs are their main problem.

soundguy

 

[number two]

Thank you again for all the suggestions and tutoring,especially Soundguy. I have to make time to visit this tractor today. Ever since I changed his oil and filter,I have this recurring oil leak at the oil filter to block seal. Either the bolt on the canister is loosening up or the gasket is compressing,or something. It started leaking big time after a couple months,so I got a new filter kit and replaced the filter again. Now a week later it's leaking again,as in like a quart right now. How can a simple oil change turn into this. Amazing!

 

[Soundguy]

Does this have the spin on filter, or the cartridge filter ( sounds like the cartridge filter )... if so, remove it.. and make sure there are no bits of the old gasket left on the block and the canister, and make sure you have a small gasket under the hold down bolt.. even gasket paper or a nylon oil plug gasket will work..

soundguy

 

[number two]

Yes,it's the cartridge style,and the bolt was tight and it still leaked some at the block to housing gasket. Went to the dealer and got a Genuine NH filter/gasket kit. Will try again tomorrow. Dealer had the voltage regulator @$48 in stock. Yes,I was using the rigid fiber washer under the bolt. Dealer is ordering a spin-on filter adapter that hopefully will work for us. $28 plus shipping. I would like to think that would end this foolishness. Can you imagine how humbling an experience this is? I can't even seem to do an oil change! We'll give it another try tomorrow. Can't give up. Thanks.

 

[Soundguy]

I actually like the cartridge style filter better due tot he thick heavy can being very puncture proof.. however.. the convienience of a spin on is hard to argue with.

soundguy