Ford 1900 wont start...electrical?

[freebird4986]

Hi all, I've got a 1982 Ford 1900 w/ 771 loader. I recently purchase it and have run it 3 times. The previous owner was using a screw driver to turn key switch and start it, so I was doing the same temporarily. The glow plugs work and it cranked just like it should. I went to start it the other night, held the glow plugs, then turned the opposite direction to start...1 short click and then nothing. I assumed the key switch had it, so I purchase a new one, hooked it back up according the the wiring schematic, and still the same, short click then no cranking. I've pulled the instrument panel up to get access to the wires (it's a mess) I see a voltage regulator and to other recepticles (not sure what they are) on the mounting bracket to the right and left of the regulator. There are some loose wire due to headlights being disconnected, cigarette lighter disconnected etc., but it doesn't seem that anything here is the problem. Could it be the solenoid on the starter? Not sure how to test it. Any advice you can offer is much appreciated.

 

[Hooked_on_HP]

Clean the conections on both ends your battery cables. To check to see if the solenoid is working use a jumper wire or screwdriver to jump from the +post on the solenoid to the small terminal next to it. Make sure you have 12v to the big post on the solenoid when you try to crank it. Are any of the safety switches still hooked up.
Bill

 

[freebird4986]

Bill, thanks for the quick reply. I cleaned the terminals on the solenoid. There are 12v at the positive terminal, but when i jump the two terminals with a screw driver, I get nothing. Would this be a sign the solenoid is bad? There is continuity across the two terminals of the solenoid with the key switch in the off and on positions.
Also, regarding the safety switch. It is still hooked up to solenoid, and I wired it back to the correct post on the key switch. There is no continuity from the switch terminal on the solenoid to the post on the key switch, with or without the clutch pedal depressed. Thoughts? Thanks,
Eric

 

[freebird4986]

A little more info... I untaped a few more wires, I see now that the wire for the safety switch runs form key switch to one of the plugs on the mounting bracket behind the dash. Two wires at the plug are fused one leading to the tranny and one that is hanging loose. I'm guessing the previous owner did this to bypass the safety switch.

 

[Hooked_on_HP]

It would appear that your solenoid is bad. Did you check the ground cable also. If you use a screwdriver to jump from the pos. terminal on the solenoid to the other large terminal you should hear the starter spin but not engauge the flywheel. If the starter spins then the solenoid is bad. If nothing happens and it doesn't spark you have problems with one of your cables.
Bill

 

[freebird4986]

Hmm, had a small spark, then nothing across the two large terminals. No spin, and can't even get it to spark anymore

 

[thclimer]

Sounds like maybe a weak or dying battery?

 

[freebird4986]

I suspected the battery initially, so I charged it all morning. I should have mentioned that. Charger read 100% charged. If it was dead and not taking a charge, the charger would not show fully charged, or could it?

 

[jimmysisson]

Can you swap in a known good battery? I agree with others (and you) that energizing the small terminal on the starter should spin the starter and/or spin & engage the starter to the flywheel. A starter rebuild is not difficult: bushings, brushes, and a good scrub. Of course, the solenoid could be ng.
Jim

 

[Hooked_on_HP]

Hmm, had a small spark, then nothing across the two large terminals. No spin, and can't even get it to spark anymore

If you can do it, hook the volt meter to the solenoid and the jump the solenoid and watch the voltage. A bad battery can show fully charged. Turn the head lights on and try jumping the solenoid.
Bill

 

[freebird4986]

Good idea. I'll have a look tomorrow to see if the CA and CCA on my truck battery are comparible. If so, I'll use that to test.
Just seems odd that I had it running with no problems a couple of weeks ago, and a few days ago it wouldn't start.

 

[freebird4986]

I'll give that a try. Should be able to hold the voltmeter there while i jump it. Unfortunately, the headlights aren't working (on my list of things to fix). The wiring harness is a bit of a mess. If a dead battery can show a full charge, I'm starting to become more suspicious of that. I hadn't run it in a couple weeks and didn't disconnect the negative terminal the last time I shut down ( a disconnect switch is also on my list). The temps have been in the teens for the last couple of weeks at night, and the battery does appear to be at least a few years old...

 

[thclimer]

If your battery is good and you still can't spin the starter I'd look towards corroded battery cables. Sometimes they can corrode up under the insulation and they still look good at the battery connection.

 

[Hooked_on_HP]

Did you get the replacement ignition switch from N/H. I don't think it has any thing to do with the problem you are having now. However if you used an aftermarket switch it may cause some other problems. If you need a schematic let me know.
Bill

 

[freebird4986]

I'll keep the battery leads in mind as I continue investigating.

The ignition switch I bought is a Shibaura SBA385200331. I bought it off ebay, but it seems to be an exact match.

I'll have limited time to work on it this week, but I will update the post after I do some more tinkering.

 

[Hooked_on_HP]

I'll keep the battery leads in mind as I continue investigating.

The ignition switch I bought is a Shibaura SBA385200331. I bought it off ebay, but it seems to be an exact match.

I'll have limited time to work on it this week, but I will update the post after I do some more tinkering.

That is the right ignition switch.
Bill

 

[freebird4986]

Quick update: I pulled the battery and stopped by NAPA on my way home tonight. They bench tested it with both of their machines and said it's as good as the day it was sold. I put it back on the tractor, turned the key, still nothing. I jumped the starter and got a stronger spark than yesterday, but no spin. With the volt meter on the two large terminals on the starter, it reads 12V, when I jump across the + terminal to the small terminal next to it, the needle on the meter drops.
I'm going to carefully inspect all leads, grounds, terminals, etc. between the battery and starter next. After that, I'll pull the starter and solenoid.

 

[rayikeo2]

I had a similar problem with my 1700 starter. I tested everything suggested and it came down to the small wire on the solenoid. The screw was not tight so the connection being loose cause the solenoid not to enguage. Look at the pictures in the link I am providing. This solenoil has a nut instead of a screw. Clean that terminal ,(the small one at the top) and make sure it is tight then try the starter again. http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...g/258752-ford-1700-not-turning-starter-2.html
If that doesn't work, check the switch on the clutch pedal to see if it is working. It is open circuit if clutch is not pushed down, and has continuity when the cluch is pushed down. That is a clutch safety.
Read the complete thread and posts. There is some good info about the starter in there and my 1700 4WD is almost identical to your 1900

 

[freebird4986]

I had a similar problem with my 1700 starter. I tested everything suggested and it came down to the small wire on the solenoid. The screw was not tight so the connection being loose cause the solenoid not to enguage. Look at the pictures in the link I am providing. This solenoil has a nut instead of a screw. Clean that terminal ,(the small one at the top) and make sure it is tight then try the starter again. http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/new-holland-owning-operating/258752-ford-1700-not-turning-starter-2.html
If that doesn't work, check the switch on the clutch pedal to see if it is working. It is open circuit if clutch is not pushed down, and has continuity when the cluch is pushed down. That is a clutch safety.
Read the complete thread and posts. There is some good info about the starter in there and my 1700 4WD is almost identical to your 1900

Thanks, I read through and checked out the pics. I definitely appreciate the input and good info. I'll keep you all posted.

Eric

 

[freebird4986]

I had a similar problem with my 1700 starter. I tested everything suggested and it came down to the small wire on the solenoid. The screw was not tight so the connection being loose cause the solenoid not to enguage. Look at the pictures in the link I am providing. This solenoil has a nut instead of a screw. Clean that terminal ,(the small one at the top) and make sure it is tight then try the starter again. http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...g/258752-ford-1700-not-turning-starter-2.html
If that doesn't work, check the switch on the clutch pedal to see if it is working. It is open circuit if clutch is not pushed down, and has continuity when the cluch is pushed down. That is a clutch safety.
Read the complete thread and posts. There is some good info about the starter in there and my 1700 4WD is almost identical to your 1900

My nightly update...I tightend the small screw on the solenoid and cleaned the terminal its attached to. That didn't help anything. So, I grabbed a jumper cable hooked to the + battery terminal, then directly to the small terminal on the solenoid. This produces a lot of spark and the solenoid clicks but does not engage the starter. Hooking the jumper to the large lug gives a small spark, but the starter doesnt spin at all. This is all with the clutch pedal blocked down. What do we think?

Bill, regarding the replacement ignition switch I installed, I attempted to use that to start the tractor from the seat, just for kicks. Turning the key to the left and holding it heats the glow plugs as it should. Then turning to the right, past "ON", to "START" when I get to a certain point it will stay in the "START" position even when I take my hand off of it (just the same as it stays in the "ON" psotion when I take my hand off of it). Is this normal? I'm not sure if I'm turning it past where its intended to tunr to crank the motor over, and unfortunately I can't tell because I get no starter clicks or cranking using the key. Also, when I turn the key to the "ON" position, the light that comes on in tach is the same light as the glow plugs. Shouldn't the other light for the battery be coming on?

Thanks,

Eric