Ford 1710 three point will not raise
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JC-jetro
Elite Member
Hi Ted,
It is a good news that your loader works. Koyker is a good loader. You do not have pump problem, having changed your seal also eliminated a very good possibility of failure. knowing more about your situation , then two simple things you can do short of breaking the line to check for flow. You can simply take the bolt off on the right side of lift piston head and check for flow. Do out something there to limit the mess. Better than that , if you have a 4000 psi oil filled gauge you can screw it in there and read pressure. Pressure and flow are not are not directly proportional. What I'm saying is if you have let say 1/2 gall of flow, can cause a different pressure if it is traveling thru 1/2" dia pipe or thru a 1/8" dia pipe or small orfice. At this point you just need to establish flow before going further. What Bill suggested is right but if you look at the geometry of feed back rod that controls spool valve normal position , you realize it is difficult for it to losen as the bolt is welded on to the clevis. There might be possibility that rod get bound up against something external and get bent or ripped off (highly unlikely). If that happens then flow can not be diverted to the sump and you have a pump dead head situation leading to chattering of relief device. You might look at the thread below for some more info.
JC,
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...ting/130597-adjust-not-adjust.html?highlight=
OP
hawkone115
New member
Well I do not know if I have a draft control can you tell me what it looks like or where it would be?
OP
hawkone115
New member
Success!
Well I got back with the issue just a few moments ago. However, before I began I removed the bolt and lock nut with associated springs on the left side. All appeared to be with the o-rings. I then concentrated on the hydro block and the distribution adjustment screw (years) since I made an adjustment between fel and tpl. I then disconnected the base screw at the block, ran like a river. Went to the smaller line and disconnected, little to no flow?
I then decided it must have the "need to bleed". I know gear driven pdp should not need to be bled but in this case it obviously did. I decided to divert all hydro pressure to the fel, cranked up the rpms and started working the fel and raising the front end off the ground. I switched the distribution screw back to the tpl and forgot I had left it in lift mode, but it let me on know on it's own when I heard it lift. I then centered the distribution screw on the block. It is up for now and it can raise my weight of 226lbs. quite easily. Checking bled off if any as I write this... I have included three pictures for anyones future reference. Thanks for all the suggestions and help!
Now I need a good source in the KC area to replace my front hydro cylinder seals on my koyker. And a new (original) factory seat. Anyone got good sources let me know?
Thanks
Ted
Well I got back with the issue just a few moments ago. However, before I began I removed the bolt and lock nut with associated springs on the left side. All appeared to be with the o-rings. I then concentrated on the hydro block and the distribution adjustment screw (years) since I made an adjustment between fel and tpl. I then disconnected the base screw at the block, ran like a river. Went to the smaller line and disconnected, little to no flow?
I then decided it must have the "need to bleed". I know gear driven pdp should not need to be bled but in this case it obviously did. I decided to divert all hydro pressure to the fel, cranked up the rpms and started working the fel and raising the front end off the ground. I switched the distribution screw back to the tpl and forgot I had left it in lift mode, but it let me on know on it's own when I heard it lift. I then centered the distribution screw on the block. It is up for now and it can raise my weight of 226lbs. quite easily. Checking bled off if any as I write this... I have included three pictures for anyones future reference. Thanks for all the suggestions and help!
Now I need a good source in the KC area to replace my front hydro cylinder seals on my koyker. And a new (original) factory seat. Anyone got good sources let me know?
Thanks
Ted
OP
hawkone115
New member
Re: Success!
Ford 1710 a.k.a. The Beast!
Ford 1710 a.k.a. The Beast!
JC-jetro
Elite Member
Re: Success!
Nice Ted, Success at last, got to break it down to smaller components to figure out problem. The problem was flow and you got it figured out. You ,might have expelled some dirt or debris lodged some where in the distribution circuit. It certainly was a great day for work outside in good ole Kansas City.
JC,
Nice Ted, Success at last, got to break it down to smaller components to figure out problem. The problem was flow and you got it figured out. You ,might have expelled some dirt or debris lodged some where in the distribution circuit. It certainly was a great day for work outside in good ole Kansas City.
JC,
OP
hawkone115
New member
Re: Success!
Yep, it was interesting because after finding how strong the flow was at the distribution block it eliminated the pump for sure. The bolt at the bottom extended into the block with spring and ball valve. That was one of the first things I disconnected and reattached. It was all very clean. No metal or dirt. Fluid was opaque still after just being changed. I worked the fel controls to determine which way to turn the diverter screw so I could force pressure back to the tph piston. This tractor only has 1057 hours so I know the inners are in excellent shape. I had to go to Harrisonville to get the part because rumor has it New Holland pulled Olathe's franchise. Harrisonville has one other seal left in stock. Nice folks down there. The shop put the nylon ring in for no charge and where pretty reasonable when I asked how much it might be to replace the seals in my fel lift pistons. Although I am debating about ordering the seals and doing it myself if special tools are not needed....
Yep, it was interesting because after finding how strong the flow was at the distribution block it eliminated the pump for sure. The bolt at the bottom extended into the block with spring and ball valve. That was one of the first things I disconnected and reattached. It was all very clean. No metal or dirt. Fluid was opaque still after just being changed. I worked the fel controls to determine which way to turn the diverter screw so I could force pressure back to the tph piston. This tractor only has 1057 hours so I know the inners are in excellent shape. I had to go to Harrisonville to get the part because rumor has it New Holland pulled Olathe's franchise. Harrisonville has one other seal left in stock. Nice folks down there. The shop put the nylon ring in for no charge and where pretty reasonable when I asked how much it might be to replace the seals in my fel lift pistons. Although I am debating about ordering the seals and doing it myself if special tools are not needed....
JC-jetro
Elite Member
Re: Success!
Ted.
You'll not change that seal for many many years again. Mine turned to mush in about 30 yrs of normal use. My 1700 has 1100 hrs and it is in perfect shape all inside and shows some age on the outside that is just cosmetic. These tractors are built tough as nails as long as they are not abused will get you a lifetime of service. You could have put the seal in by yourself if you followed my thread Bill mentioned. I bought mine from NH Olathe location. Pam that works at the counter is great. They picked up Kiotis and brought new re badged LS tractors. I thik they are still in business as I Passed by their place 2 months ago. I called the mechanic guy over Harrisonville once many years ago and he could not be nicer. I bought my seal around $ 8 about 9 years ago. I got a pm from an Aussie dude having the same lift issue like you had. After he took the piston out the seal just crumble in his hand. He could not locate Part in Down Under so I gave him two sources in US. They charged him $50 for shipping and about $30 for the seal don't think there is a likelihood of not being able to source the same seal as the it is used on some newer TC model as well. I think 1900, 1910, 1550 and 1510 uses the very same seal.
JC,
Ted.
You'll not change that seal for many many years again. Mine turned to mush in about 30 yrs of normal use. My 1700 has 1100 hrs and it is in perfect shape all inside and shows some age on the outside that is just cosmetic. These tractors are built tough as nails as long as they are not abused will get you a lifetime of service. You could have put the seal in by yourself if you followed my thread Bill mentioned. I bought mine from NH Olathe location. Pam that works at the counter is great. They picked up Kiotis and brought new re badged LS tractors. I thik they are still in business as I Passed by their place 2 months ago. I called the mechanic guy over Harrisonville once many years ago and he could not be nicer. I bought my seal around $ 8 about 9 years ago. I got a pm from an Aussie dude having the same lift issue like you had. After he took the piston out the seal just crumble in his hand. He could not locate Part in Down Under so I gave him two sources in US. They charged him $50 for shipping and about $30 for the seal
don't think there is a likelihood of not being able to source the same seal as the it is used on some newer TC model as well. I think 1900, 1910, 1550 and 1510 uses the very same seal.JC,
Yep, it was interesting because after finding how strong the flow was at the distribution block it eliminated the pump for sure. The bolt at the bottom extended into the block with spring and ball valve. That was one of the first things I disconnected and reattached. It was all very clean. No metal or dirt. Fluid was opaque still after just being changed. I worked the fel controls to determine which way to turn the diverter screw so I could force pressure back to the tph piston. This tractor only has 1057 hours so I know the inners are in excellent shape. I had to go to Harrisonville to get the part because rumor has it New Holland pulled Olathe's franchise. Harrisonville has one other seal left in stock. Nice folks down there. The shop put the nylon ring in for no charge and where pretty reasonable when I asked how much it might be to replace the seals in my fel lift pistons. Although I am debating about ordering the seals and doing it myself if special tools are not needed....
sixdogs
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Draft control would be a lever along side the lever that raises and lowers your three-point hitch. Well, at least when your three-point works.
I'm not sure you have draft control but I had a 2110 that did and I almost ordered a 1710 and I think I recall it being an option. That accessory is important to me so I generally remember. If you did have draft control and it is not adjusted correctly your three point either won't work correctly or won't work at all. I have had that happen to me.
It's a long shot but worth a mention.
OP
hawkone115
New member
Re: Success!
Thanks JC,
I could have put the seal in, but while I was there I had them run the piston head and piston through some parts cleaner. Seal looked very tight so the volunteered to to put in the seal for me. The looked at the cylinder wall and commented that I had just honed it. Nope. They were surprised how clean it was. I paid 8600.00 for this back in 2004. Thought I paid to much until I found out how much the loader alone was worth. I also got a finish mower (now dead), disc, front blade (never used it so if you want to buy it I will sell it to you, and a rear blade used and abused but still weldable!
Thanks JC,
I could have put the seal in, but while I was there I had them run the piston head and piston through some parts cleaner. Seal looked very tight so the volunteered to to put in the seal for me
. The looked at the cylinder wall and commented that I had just honed it. Nope. They were surprised how clean it was. I paid 8600.00 for this back in 2004. Thought I paid to much until I found out how much the loader alone was worth. I also got a finish mower (now dead), disc, front blade (never used it so if you want to buy it I will sell it to you, and a rear blade used and abused but still weldable!