Ford 1210 Hydraulic Leak Down

[JC-jetro]

I will try to adjust he psi with the link on, the adjustment procedure said to remove link for adjusting .View attachment 667390View attachment 667391

Ok. I bet those procedure is from Factory manual. I have never seen it bit it is verbatim what I thought it should be. it jives perfectly with my Kubota WSM (Work Shop Manual). On one page is basically wanting to let you know how to adjust raising the lift arm as high as possible just short of setting the relief off. On the second page, the pressure adjustment has really nothing to do with feed back only if the feed back arm is disconnected for sure it reaches relief pressure setting. I personally think we are talking two separate functions. one is to set for neutral position of spool and other how stiff to make the pressure relief spring to attain around 2000 psi. I myself adjusted the pressure without removing the linkage.

One other thing I did was to put a witness mark on the rock shaft and lift cover and with lift cylinder head removed, I raised and lowered the 3 point arm manually (no implement on) and observed the position of piston up ad down the cylinder to verify I am raising the 3 point to it's max height. I then checked it with system all back together and if my relief chattered then I would have shortened or lengthens the linkage.

yup, I would adjust with the link on.

 

[JC-jetro]

Question, on the position control valve #9 it says relief valve should not operate with lift arm full up , so there should be no psi on the gauge when this is being performed, if there is an implement attached will have psi or psi either way ?

1- The first part basically says when you raise the arm at it's highest point the link will move lift spool to dump. There will be pressure but just below relief setting of say 2100 psi.

2- There should always be pressure anytime your tractor is on no matter where the 3 point is and what RPM as you have live hydraulic, meaning pump is constantly pumping and whatever is not used at any given time is returned to diffy reservoir.

3-if tractor is off, and you have let say a 500 lb implement, then the weight times length of the arm to pivot point will make a moment arm that has certain amount of rotational force. That force is translated to rock shaft and then the ram rod that pushes the piston up against trapped oil in the cylinder. That will cause static pressure reading on the gauge. if you go stand up on the implement and jump up and dorm then you will notice fluctuation of the gauge with the tractor off.. It's all magic.:laughing:

 

[shannondurst]

Ok so maybe I am over adjusting the link then I will adjust again Saturday its at the lease, thanks for your help you are very knowledgeable.

 

[sld]

That's what I said!

 

[JC-jetro]

That's what I said!

We kind of rudely stole your thread but it's all good. Looking forward for you to get your rig up and running. Thanks for the compliment. I am very inquisitive by nature.

 

[shannondurst]

 

[hansan]

whatever you do don't put your finger on the leak !

 

[hansan]

Do you have a loader on yours ? I have a ford 1210 compact tractor and I want to put a loader on mine , do you have any pictures of where the hoses attaches to ? Any picture would help a lot . Thank you .

 

[sld]

Being the procrastinator I am I can finally report I replaced my seal today. A few things I would note for anyone else doing this job. Again, the only symptoms I had were slight pulsing on a heavy box blade and the arms dropped fairly quickly after shut off.

You will lose some fluid but it is not much. I didn't have to add any back in when I was done.

After taking the 6 bolts off the rabbit / turtle valve head the piston popped right out. The old seal was not bad but the raised lip was worn off.

Putting the new seal on was a royal pain. You just have to get it engaged in the piston's groove and work your way around.

I did not see how I was going to reassemble this thing since the piston driven arm was sticking out too far. I finally figured out to manually raise the 3 point arms and prop them up. This pulled the arm back into the cylinder and let the piston retract fully.

The valve head was a tight fit also. I had to use the short upper and short lower bolt to "walk" it down flush by alternately tightening each bolt. Once seated I installed the other bolts and snugged them up in a criss cross pattern.

Everything works great now and the arms are staying up when I shut off the engine. Up and down motion of the arms is very smooth. Feels good to get this done and the repair will last a long time.

 

[JC-jetro]

Being the procrastinator I am I can finally report I replaced my seal today. now the arms are staying up when I shut off the engine. Up and down motion of the arms is very smooth. Feels good to get this done and the repair will last a long time.

So you say sld, " the great procrastinator that you are" . I was patiently waiting for the result. Good work:thumbsup:

JC,