Ford 1210 Hydraulic Leak Down

sld · Aug 22, 2020

Hi all,

I'm back after a long hiatus. My gear drive 1210 that I use for moving snow has an issue. The lift arms will lower fairly quickly after shutting it off. The heavier the implement the faster it goes.

After some searching, it appears I need to replace a piston seal. I have looked at numerous posts from expert JC Jetro and I am a little confused. Do I access this seal from the rabbit / turtle valve or do I remove the seat and go in from here?

Any pictures and advice would be welcome. We might get some snow in southern Kansas this year!

Thanks in advance.

JC-jetro · Aug 22, 2020

sld said:
Hi all,

I'm back after a long hiatus. My gear drive 1210 that I use for moving snow has an issue. The lift arms will lower fairly quickly after shutting it off. The heavier the implement the faster it goes.

After some searching, it appears I need to replace a piston seal. I have looked at numerous posts from expert JC Jetro and I am a little confused. Do I access this seal from the rabbit / turtle valve or do I remove the seat and go in from here?

Any pictures and advice would be welcome. We might get some snow in southern Kansas this year!

Thanks in advance.

Hi Sld,

I beg to differ on "expert" designation...that's a big shoe to fill.

Since you are able to keep the load up on 3 point while engine is on then for sure your pump is fine which is good. Most probably your seal is bad. There is an over pressure check valve that might be leaking passed the rabbit/turtle valve that is highly unlikely. The good thing is this is very simple procedure as you can remove the lift cylinder sleeve with piston along with cylinder head by removing the 6 bolts where the rate of drop needle valve is (aka, rabbit/turtle) knob. There is an o-ring that seal the head to the sleeve, be gentle with it so you do not have to replace it. The piston seal is nylon and not too flexible so do make sure the orientation of is correct when you slide it in the piston groove. It is a double lipped seal and the lips shroud face the front or the cylinder head to fully seal the oil making pressure. I have a few pics here. let me know if you need more clarification. it really should be done in less than one hr with normal tools. You do not need to mess with the seat and lift piston cover unlike many other tractors. Much superior design with the exception of 2 lift cylinder externally attached to the 3-point arms.

JC,

sld · Aug 22, 2020

I've read many of your posts over the years. I would say you are an expert on the 00 and 10 series.

Thanks for the reply and that does make sense. Do I need to drain any hyd fluid before doing this?

JC-jetro · Aug 22, 2020

sld said:
I've read many of your posts over the years. I would say you are an expert on the 00 and 10 series.

Thanks for the reply and that does make sense. Do I need to drain any hyd fluid before doing this?

No, you do not need to drain any fluid as this thing is higher than any part of of your hyd system an they all drain back to diffy. if you had no leak in the seal then you would have some trapped pressure and bit of oil to squirt out when you open the head. For good measure release all trapped pressure if you have a loader and lower the lift lever down to bleed any trapped oil back to diffy. You will need some rags to clean up a bit of oil here and there. Have you acquired the seal yet?

sld · Aug 23, 2020

I have not gotten the seal yet. I was looking at a diagram on Messicks web site and I believe I found it. Looks like it's part number SBA050309016 and around 48 bucks.

Worst case is I pick one up locally. The dealer here is pretty good but a little over priced on parts.

JC-jetro · Aug 23, 2020

sld said:
I have not gotten the seal yet. I was looking at a diagram on Messicks web site and I believe I found it. Looks like it's part number SBA050309016 and around 48 bucks.

Worst case is I pick one up locally. The dealer here is pretty good but a little over priced on parts.

Yikes, $48, what the heck. Attached please find two pdf here , one shows the part break down and the other is buying directly from CNH for $13. By the way , I am not getting any commission from CNH, he he

PS. Did not get a chance to verify with Messicks, but CNH part # is a bit different but there has been a few upgrade and changes. what CNH has is OEM replacement. I bought my seal for $8 then. I wishes I bought one extra. Perhaps I should check CNH and have one extra one on hand. My original lasted 30 years and I don;t reckon I'll be around another 30 years.

sld · Aug 23, 2020

Thanks for all your help! I am going to try and get this done this week.

JC-jetro · Aug 23, 2020

sld said:
Thanks for all your help! I am going to try and get this done this week.

I think there is something wrong with the CNH new web site. I did try to find my seal just for curiosity and the part # did not jive with material list. For the same part # for the seal gave me nut or clevis something. I was in a hurry so did mot double check. later tonight when I get a chance I will double check your seal again.I am sure your local NH dealer uses the same website. looks to me there was a change lately done to the site.

JC-jetro · Aug 23, 2020

Double checked it.I think there is some database mix up with CNH. on the diagram part #17 is clearly the lift piston seal but on the description and SBA # it is a clevis pin. Just does not make sense.

I hope Rick will chime in as I think his dealership represent CNH also. I think calling your local dealer might shed some light here.