Finally started on my Texas pole barn!

[Kyle_in_Tex]

I hope that the other TBN's don't get bored with my project postings b/c the barn and the process of building it is going to look very similar to yours.

Howdy Jim, I appreciate it and I'm sure others will too. At 1st, I didn't think there were any pictures because I'm so used to looking for the paper clip symbol next to the thread but I'm glad I've opened it up now. You're doing a great job documenting with the thumbnail pictures.

BTW, we are practically neighbors. I'm only about 28-30 miles from Burton. (Folks, around here, you can actually drive 30 miles in 30 minutes) We go thru on the way to Brenham. There are a handful of really nice TBN'ers in these parts. Go look at the This, that and the other thread here in the Projects area.

 

[Megado]

Howdy Jim, I appreciate it and I'm sure others will too. At 1st, I didn't think there were any pictures because I'm so used to looking for the paper clip symbol next to the thread but I'm glad I've opened it up now. You're doing a great job documenting with the thumbnail pictures.

BTW, we are practically neighbors. I'm only about 28-30 miles from Burton. (Folks, around here, you can actually drive 30 miles in 30 minutes) We go thru on the way to Brenham. There are a handful of really nice TBN'ers in these parts. Go look at the This, that and the other thread here in the Projects area.

Kyle,

I had noticed awhile back that you were from Giddings. We're in Giddings for church (St. Margaret's) every weekend that we are up at our property. Our place is on the north side of Burton. Would love some company if you're ever in our neck of the woods. I'll shoot you a PM with particulars.

Jim H.

 

[Megado]

Eddie,

Thanks but I think I'm going to try and straighten out the existing post before resorting to replacing it. I got them freshly treated from a lumber supplier (they weighed a TON!) and it was my fault for not tying it off quick enough. There were a couple of weeks that went by before I could get back to the property, and sure enough, it got hot and the post started to dry out and warp. I think I can straighten it back out using the technique that Kenneth mentioned. My neighbor had a similar problem when he was building his barn and he set one of his large trailers next to the post and used it as the anchor point. He then hooked up his come-a-long and would periodically tighten until he got the post straighten out. Of course...he just shook his head when I told him what had happened to me and he said "Dummy...didn't I tell you to tie off those post as quick as you get them in the ground?"

Jim H.

Well...below is my solution for my warped post. I tied off the top of the post to my trailer using a combination of chain and tie-down straps (only material I had on hand ) and cinched them up using the tie-down ratchet. I straightened the post just past vertical and left it this way over the long weekend. Decided to check on status prior to leaving on Monday by taking the tenson off to see what the result would be. To my relief, the post was sitting perfectly straight. I cinched it back up and will leave it this way until we're back to the property next weekend. At which time I'll set the rafter on it and call it done.

 

[Megado]

I had the opportunity to do some flying over the Memorial Day weekend with a buddy and shot these aerial photo's of our place. I did some editing on one of the photo's to show the location of our circular driveway and the barn project.

 

[Megado]

Also got some work done on the barn over the weekend. The photo's below show how (with the help of SteelDust's advice) I resolved my issue of installing the 2x6 purlin blocking between the rafters when the spacing is actually 6" wide. That puzzled me for the longest time until SteelDust said to just use clamps and pull the rafters in 1/4" each side. Duh!!! I must admit though...some were much tougher than others due to the bow in a few of the rafters.




Below are photo's of where I got by the end of the long weekend. Hoping to complete the installation of the remaining purlins on the shed portions next weekend.

 

[wedge40]

I/we appreciate the step by step process with lot and lots of photos. It's interesting to see (and learn) each step of the process. I really liked the photos showing how you set the poles into the ground. I had read about it on here, and figured out how it needed to be done, but it was nice to see it in action.

Thanks and keep the photos coming.. Don't know who is behind the camera, but they are doing a wonderful job.

Wedge

 

[EddieWalker]

On your 6x6 inch posts, are you saying that they are actually 6 inches wide and not 5 1/2 inches? I put some in last year for a porch and for the life of me, I don't remember them being six inches.

The clamp looks good for your blocking. Did you try screws? When I get a pied of lumber that wants to bend the wrong way, or has a slight twist in it, I can usually straighten it out with 3 inch screws but pulling it to another piece of lumber. Screws also have more holding power then nails, so I tend to use them quite a bit when I build.

Nice arial pictures. You have an very nice setting!!

Eddie

 

[Megado]

Wedge - Thanks! Appreciate knowing that my postings and photo's are useful to those who are reading them. It's a little scary though because I certainly would not consider myself an expert at any of this. A lot of what I'm doing is just applying what I've learned here on TBN from those who are more knowledgeable or have more experience than me.

Eddie - Yes...the 6x6 post are actually a true 6" wide and not 5 1/2". Same with the 6x8's. Thus my wonderment of how I could use a 2x6 stock for the purlin blocking? I angled the nails in an alternating pattern to hopefully better hold things in place, but I think I'll definitely take your advice and add some 3" screws just to be sure.

 

[mikim]

how I could use a 2x6 stock for the purlin blocking?
I must be getting here late ... Jim, couldn't you have just cut your 2x6 blocks 6" long? It would rotate the grain direction ... but would that matter?

 

[Megado]

how I could use a 2x6 stock for the purlin blocking?
I must be getting here late ... Jim, couldn't you have just cut your 2x6 blocks 6" long? It would rotate the grain direction ... but would that matter?

Mikim,

Good idea, but unfortunately doesn't work in this particular application. The blocking is used to hold the purlins in place above the rafters. I cut each of the blocks 16 1/4" long and then installed them between the 2x12 rafters. This allowed them to stick up ~ 5 1/4" above the top rafters. The purlins were then then nailed to them. See photo below.




Hope that helps explain the process.

Jim H.

 

[Kyle_in_Tex]

Everything looks good so far. Do you have a place to get out of the heat for a break?
Keep us posted.

 

[bindian]

Megado,
Looks like you are off to a great start. Keep the photos and details coming.
hugs, Brandi

 

[SteelDust]

Also got some work done on the barn over the weekend. The photo's below show how (with the help of SteelDust's advice) I resolved my issue of installing the 2x6 purlin blocking between the rafters when the spacing is actually 6" wide. That puzzled me for the longest time until SteelDust said to just use clamps and pull the rafters in 1/4" each side. Duh!!! I must admit though...some were much tougher than others due to the bow in a few of the rafters.

Just to reiterate what EddieWalker mentioned, on one set of rafters I did resort to clamps and 3" wood screws to get the pulled together, like yours, my rafters did have some bow to them. On one set, I actually had to turn my clamp around and use it as a spreader as the bow was going the other direction.

Not much progress on mine, I got the remaining 3 rows of screws into the center portion of the roof, effectively finishing that off. Nothing picture worthy though. It seems this time of year most of my free time is spent mowing. My dad will be up for two weeks here soon and I'm taking some time off of work, so I'm optimistic that I'll get all of the roofing finished off.

 

[Megado]

Ok...so there I was this past weekend admiring my work to date while fixing to get started with completing the installation of the remaining purlins from the previous weekend when suddenly I had one of those dreaded...how should I say it..."Ah %$#&!!!" moments. As I was looking it over, I realized that in my hast to begin installing purlins last weekend I had failed to realize that I needed to install 2x6x14' purlins on the end sections to allow for the roof overhang instead of 2x6x12'. So I paused for a moment and took a deep breath to calm myself. Then I figured that at least I hadn't gotten too far into the installation process and could simply take down the 12's and replace with the 14's. Seemed easy enough, right?

So while I'm in the process of doing just that, my lovely better-half walks up and we have the following dialogue:

Better-half: Uh...can I ask you a question?

Self: Sure

Better-half: So why are you taking down what you spent time last week putting up?

Self: Well...you see dear...it's a long complicated explanation to the method of my madness. But in the construction world it is better known as "contingency".

Better-half: Hmmm...well...in the "non" construction world it seems more to me like it should be known as "stupidity". Uh..."dear"!

Self: Yeah, yeah...well I didn't ask for any comments from the peanut gallery!


Anyway...the pictures below show what I got accomplished after utilizing some of my "contingency". I've now completed the installation of the correct purlins on the open shed side of the barn.



I also installed the 2x12 rim joist for the loft but ran out of time before we had to leave to get any of the joist set in place. Unfortunately it will be a few weeks before we're back at the property so those will have to wait. I went ahead and succumbed to the idea that I needed to get the loft installed to help aid in setting the center section roof rafters. My hopes are that the installation of the loft will also help to solidify the structure for the time being.

 

[Kyle_in_Tex]

You can always depend on the peanut gallery!!!

I'll bet you will be very good friends with Mr. Goodson(lumber store owner) by the time this is finished.

 

[Megado]

You can always depend on the peanut gallery!!!

I'll bet you will be very good friends with Mr. Goodson(lumber store owner) by the time this is finished.

Yep...I've got Mr. Goodson on my speed dial!

Wasn't too bad though because I'll be able to reuse the 12's when I start installing the girts around the sides. All in all it was just a good lesson's learned about not getting ahead of yourself and to be sure to think things through.

Jim H.

 

[SteelDust]

Yep...I've got Mr. Goodson on my speed dial!

Wasn't too bad though because I'll be able to reuse the 12's when I start installing the girts around the sides. All in all it was just a good lesson's learned about not getting ahead of yourself and to be sure to think things through.

Jim H.

That is the exact reason I didn't order a lumber package before hand. I knew there were going to be "changes" as I went along. You're correct, you're going to need quite a few 12 footers down the road, so they are not going to go to waste.

I found that getting the flooring down on the loft really solidified the building. There was still a bit of flex, but not nearly as much. Getting the roof sheeting on has made the most difference in mine so far.

I'm stalled on my project. I need at least two days in a row of no rain before I put the felt down over the OSB. I don't want to trap that moisture under the felt. And the last two weeks have been less than ideal, weather wise, up here.

 

[Megado]

Finally made it back to the property after being gone for two weeks and unfortunately didn't get a thing done on the barn. Spent most of the weekend getting caught up on mowing that had been neglected.

I did check things out on the barn though and discovered something that is getting really frustrating and wondered if anyone might have any suggestions?

With the temperature in S.E. Texas now at 98f on a daily basis, along with a baking sun, I'm having a difficult time with wood drying out and either warping, twisting or shrinking. For example, I noticed as I was inspecting that a few of my 2x12 rafters had begun to sag in the middle. I also noticed that the rafters and the rafter support blocks that the rafters sit on had begun to dry out and shrink. To the point that there is now about a 1/8" - 1/4" gap between the two and some of the rafters are no longer sitting on the support block (I probably should have taken a picture but didn't have the camera with me). So with the sagging issue, I'm now left with a few rafters that no longer line up across the tops and thus cause my purlins to be out of alignment along the top. I've got one rafter that has sagged almost 1 1/2". Should I replace the rafter? Or perhaps remove it and flip it over so the crown is up and hope it settles back straight? The rafters in question were all straight when originally installed. I may be wrong, but I honestly think the heat and baking sun has affected them.

I know the answer will more than likely be to get the roof on as quickly as possible to protect the exposed wood. But that's still a ways off schedule wise and the summer heat is here to stay. I'd just like to know if others have had similar problems and this is a common thing to deal with on long duration projects where wood is exposed to the elements?

Any thoughts or suggestions will be greatly appreciated...

Jim H.

 

[Megado]

Well...after many hours of agonizing over what to do next with my exposed wood problem that is causing me so much grief, the decision was made to begin installing the roof decking on the one shed side that was ready for it. This decision was made really for two reasons. First, it would provide protection to the previously installed rafters and purlins. But more importantly, it would also provide us with some much needed shade to retreat to. Below are progress pics after AJ and I spent a long and extremely HOT 4-day weekend getting the decking installed.

First item of business was to square up the framing of the roof to determine where we needed to trim the purlins. We did this by laying out strings and using the ol' 3 4 5 method of measurement. We also cross-checked it by measuring diagonally across the roof area to each of the four corners and found that we were within a 1/4" tolerance. I then went through and marked each purlin and began trimming them to length.

[URL=http://i293.photobucket.com/albums/mm64/zingr88/Monitor%20Barn%20Project/6-22-2008/IMG_2370.jpg] [/URL]

Next we installed the facia boards along the ends of the purlins and then trimmed them at the eave.



Once all the trimming of the framing was complete, then AJ and I began the process of installing the 4'x8' sheets of 7/16 OSB roof decking. There were a few pieces that needed to be cut to fit. Once cut, then it was AJ's job to paint the newly cut edge with a primer to protect it. As you can see below, once the first row of decking got installed we finally had some shade to work in!!!



The pictures below show where we got by the end of the weekend. We still have a few small strips of decking to put up along the top, but overall the decking is complete on this side. I threw up some cross-bracing as a precaution but unfortunately didn't have enough material on hand to X-brace each bay. Figured that some was better than none at all. I'll add more the next time we're back.



As a final thought...isn't it amazing how you can spend all day long cursing the hot blazing sun and then go to the lake that evening and admire that very same sun showing all its beauty during a spectacular sunset? Wonders never cease!

 

[EddieWalker]

Are you saying that some of those 2x12's are sagging? I'm shocked that this would happen, especially with that size of lumber. I don't think the heat would cause this, but don't know for sure. It just seems very odd that a piece of wood of that size would start to sag so quickly. When I've seen sagging, it's because a piece of lumber was too small to span the distance needed. Usually a 2x4 or 2x6, and it takes years to happen.

I don't want to question your install procedure, but want to cover the basics. Every piece of lumber has a small bow to it in one direction. It might be so slight as to be impossilbe to detect by the eye, but that's very rare. Did you check each of your boards before installing them for the bow? And did you install them with the bow side up?

Are you putting shingles on your barn or a metal roof? Metal roofs attach directly to the wood purlins, which it looks like you have in place, and are attaching the OSB to. OSB decking, or other materials like plywood, are used for shingles with a tar or felt paper undelayment. If you use metal on top of OSB, you have to put down a water proof layer to keep the OSB dry because the metal will trap water between the metal and the OSB. Condensation is the biggest culprit of this because of the water vapor in the air.

Some metal roofs require the decking and felt paper, but those are very pricey roofs that do not have the rib on them in standard metal roofs where the moisture issue is of concern.

I also have heard that some manufacturers recomend decking under their roofs, so both ways work, I just don't have any experience with that method.

Eddie