Fence Posts

[s219]

I think the main thing to remember is that the dry mix backfill method is generally recommended when the local soil is not suitable to backfill a hole. Around here, when you dig or drill a post hole, the spoils are not able to be used to backfill the hole because it's impossible to re-compact. On pole barns, you'd have poor resistance to wind loads, and snow loads could cause the structure to shear if the poles aren't held in tight. So engineers always spec dry mix to backfill the holes.

I don't think anyone is suggesting the dry mix is as strong as properly mixed and cured wet mix. You wouldn't want to use dry mix for pre-cast stuff, slabs, etc. But for backfilling posts, it's a great method and usually more than adequate. And the big plus is that you can immediately continue working after backfilling the post. No need to brace the post and wait for concrete to cure.

I did hear from an engineer here that due to our moist clay soil, dry mix will actually harden as good or better than wet mix due to the slow absorption and cure. It's a long term "ideal" situation for concrete. The only flaw is that you cannot guarantee uniformity. What goes in the hole is what comes out of the bag and how it comes out of the bag. In contrast, with wet mix, you are thoroughly mixing all the ingredients and uniformity is much better. That is something to keep in mind no matter which method you use.

 

[beowulf]

I have used concrete, used nothing, and also have tried to coat the posts with roofing tar or asphalt sealer (can't recall which I used as it was just something I had around here). Not enough time has passed to assess the 'tar' method, but I only coated the lower part that I put into the ground making sure the tar line was 4-5 inches above the ground level, and I did not coat the bottom of the post - thinking it would seal the bottom and would not let any moisture out. I then set them o a bit of gravel and tamped in the dirt. BTW - I tried this as some wooden posts I put in long ago would rot out along the ground line - as Eddie has stated.

 

[forgeblast]

I use this method, not for live stock, but for 3 rail fence, and a bit to keep our dogs in place (with a field fence backing).
Dig it out, pull out all the rocks, and then throw a shovel full of gravel in the bottom. To hold them in place I use modified and pack it in there good.
Even with our freeze/thaw I have not had any come loose. One that was taken out by a falling tree, was easy to replace.

 

[Furu]

Well I tried the dry concrete "new" method. It will be interesting to see how well it works and what I think in a year.

 

[Redlands Okie]

 

[LouNY]

Interesting reading all these posts.
All the fences I have been involved in building and repairing in over 60 years have been field fencing for livestock.
I have used an auger for maybe a dozen posts in all those years, that fence used railroad tyes for the corner and gate posts.
Every other post I have put in has been driven, as a youngster working for my father it involved using a bar to get the hole started,
then a 13 pound post maul to drive the post in. A post maul is similar to a sledge hammer except the driving end is about 6" in diameter.
Now days it's a hydraulic driver mounted on the FEL of the tractor, much handier then 3 point.
Enjoy your digging and concreting, not for me.

 

[workinonit]

Dig a hole here now and you won't have to worry about water. The mix forces water from the hole. It's literally at ground level right now.

 

[forgeblast]

Dig a hole here now and you won't have to worry about water. The mix forces water from the hole. It's literally at ground level right now.

Just saw your location, Scranton, Sc I live near Scranton, PA. Never knew there was another Scranton....

 

[workinonit]

There's a very good reason. It's a hole in the road. No stop light. It does have an elementary school and a cop that loves to run radar and write tickets.

 

[forgeblast]

Lol! Scranton, PA is a bit bigger, not that I go there often, but there are some great restaurants.

 

[Diggin It]

Just saw your location, Scranton, Sc I live near Scranton, PA. Never knew there was another Scranton....

If you can trust this site, there are at least six:

How many places in USA areas (towns cities) Named Scranton? | Yahoo Answers

1. Scranton, PA
2. Scranton,SC
3. Scranton, KS
4. Scranton, IA
5. Scranton, ND
6. Scranton, AR

 

[workinonit]

Now that I did not know.

 

[MoKelly]

If you can trust this site, there are at least six:

How many places in USA areas (towns cities) Named Scranton? | Yahoo Answers

1. Scranton, PA
2. Scranton,SC
3. Scranton, KS
4. Scranton, IA
5. Scranton, ND
6. Scranton, AR

I read that the city that appears in the greatest number of states is Riverside.

Used to believe it was Springfield, but the internet says it’s Riverside.

MoKelly

 

[buckeyefarmer]

Why waste time and money on concrete?

 

[Maxify55]

Interesting reading all these posts.
All the fences I have been involved in building and repairing in over 60 years have been field fencing for livestock.
I have used an auger for maybe a dozen posts in all those years, that fence used railroad tyes for the corner and gate posts.
Every other post I have put in has been driven, as a youngster working for my father it involved using a bar to get the hole started,
then a 13 pound post maul to drive the post in. A post maul is similar to a sledge hammer except the driving end is about 6" in diameter.
Now days it's a hydraulic driver mounted on the FEL of the tractor, much handier then 3 point.
Enjoy your digging and concreting, not for me.

We installed over 200 down here in Florida back in ‘07 when driving them was quite surreal to watch. They’re still doing fine today in the clay/sand mix we have here.
Add to the mix high tension vinyl fencing instead of standard fencing. I use a 1/2” breaker bar on the turnbuckles to tighten things up every 2-3 yrs.

 

[Barnbuilder]

I've put 1000's of posts in the ground. I've always put a couple of inches if dirt in. Tamped it, then dumped a bag of Crete in dry and tamped it. If the ground is moist it will set. If it's bone dry I'll add water if possible. Then next day put dirt on top and tamp it. Like to keep Crete 4-6" below grade.

Most of the posts seem to rot from the center out on top.

 

[ultrarunner]

Had one job where 64 year old posts set in concrete needed to be replaced.

The new post slipped right in slick as could be...

 

[buckeyefarmer]

I could see using concrete as a sleeve, where you could remove a section. I sleeved one split rail fence post so I can remove that section, but I used pvc pipe as the sleeve and tamped with dirt.

 

[workinallthetime]

current price at HD $5.58 for "fast setting" 50lb bag, $2.69 for 60lb of Portland. I will continue to mix the concrete personally. 3-4 bags in the wheelbarrow, short shovel, and good workout, and know I never have to worry about doing that post again in my life time.
As Eddie mentioned a dome cap at the top of a wooden post will extend the life by several years.