FEL Tree Trimmer

[Sodo]

but I don't intend on spending days or weeks using a string trimmer or pole saw. I want something that will cut 3 or 4 inch limbs an do it as fast as possible. I also prefer to build it myself. I am a machinist with a complete machine shop at my disposal.

View attachment 396865

If you were anywhere near satisfied by the cut speed of that guy with the single blade (in the video), walking with a carbide string trimmer would cut at least 5x faster. I think one blade is not worth the effort at all. At least three 12 inch blades so you're cutting a swath almost 3 feet where you can curl the bucket and cut a 8 foot swath,,,,,, now you're talkin. But I still think the lack of other angles will be a hassle and slow you down. Agreed it would be fun to build and worthy of horsepower.

But if all that's happening now is you're getting hassled while bushhogging, a carbide string trimmer will be much faster and you can cut the stuff farther back wherever necessary. Understood the word "string trimmer" sounds tame, but you're probably forgetting the amount of work a skilsaw can do and how quick it cuts.

Anyway I fully understand the desire to make something like that rig they cut the powerline swaths with.

 

[jb92563]

Maybe a Pressure washer attachment to a bucket boom could cut through those pesky limbs.

This one is cutting a 12"+ log. Add some defoliant to the liquid and you'll eradicate the heck out of the area and leave a barren wasteland for quite some time.

 

[BukitCase]

Must be a normal pressure washer, I think my 3300 psi one would nearly do that - as long as it took and as messy as it was, I'd opt for the axe over that... Steve

 

[SPYDERLK]

Must be a normal pressure washer, I think my 3300 psi one would nearly do that - as long as it took and as messy as it was, I'd opt for the axe over that... Steve

No way 3300 psi would do that in less than an hour - probably more like a day. Youre talking 10Kpsi and pretty hi delivery. LOTS of power.

 

[RitchElbe]

I kinda think that was some kinda evergreen..was falling about to easy

 

[jb92563]

I was kidding of course, as I think it would be more trouble than its worth but I figured a little bit of out of the box thinking
is needed for a good solution to meet all the requirements.

On to the next idea, if a weedwhacker spinning 1 saw blade is good then how about many blades driven by a hydraulic motor.

Better right? But wait, lets hang that scary monstrosity from a Helicopter so the operator is as far away from those blade as possible.

 

[Sodo]

Given the miles and miles of roads that must be kept open, you would think,,,,,,,, that if driving down a road with blades spinning, would work,,,,, that it would appear more in Google images and YouTube. Maybe everyone's seen the county road dept's flail mowers on articulated arm (on a backhoe or excavator). Search google images for "road side brush cutter" and "fence line mower". Some examples, but nothing like that helicopter scythe.

Anyway I think about this a bit,,,,, because I maintain ATV trails, and snowmobile trails, snowboard runs. In my case I don't want shredded bushes next to the road or trail, because over the years it becomes a mass of ugliness that requires more "work" to get rid of. But because it's flailed, shredded, it can be "soft, sort of "safe". But it looks over the top sloppy and ugly! - why would a guy even bother mowing below such ugly brush maintenance? Certainly that works for some applications though, if you just got to keep the road clear, and not for enjoyment.

I'd think indiscriminate straight line cutting would leave a dangerous situation with sharp sticks, that if you didn't walk the line, inspect, and remove, may even be a liability if not dangerous for your own bush-hogging. I certainly would not leave sharp sticks in the bushes for snowboarders or other recreationists to discover if they went off-trail.

Anyway this is an interesting subject for me.

 

[XxLT250RxX]

This is private property and it is not in my yard, around my house, or my shop. Don't give a F$%&* about the "mass of ugliness". Just cut it again next year. Certainly no snowboarders or recreationists. Again this is posted private property. And to repeat I am not trimming trees around my house. I does not have to be pretty. Does not have to be spinning blades either. Just trying to come up with something that will do the job and not cost $$$$$$$$.







This last picture is a perfect example of what I am dealing with. Notice the mess hanging out into the clearing just in front of the tractor. It is almost a perfect solution too except I don't think it will go as high as I would like and also for the cost involved.

 

[Slagiatt]

I bought one of the ditcher flails mower this year, not as good as picture by the manufactors does ok on the ground but once in the air to cut the side of you'r trail's leaves a scragly mess. no way it will take on the larger stuff you wish to cut anyway best just pick days with nouthing better to do and go after it with poe saw @ wheed eater with saw blade. Slagiatt

 

[Baby Grand]

I bought one of the ditcher flails mower this year, not as good as picture by the manufactors does ok on the ground but once in the air to cut the side of you'r trail's leaves a scragly mess. no way it will take on the larger stuff you wish to cut anyway best just pick days with nouthing better to do and go after it with poe saw @ wheed eater with saw blade. Slagiatt

... that or get a giraffe.
The idea of being unable to get out of the way in a tractor seat while limbs are dropping from overhead doesn't seem like an ideal arrangement to me unless I had a forestry cab on the tractor. Even then, tree limbs don't always present themselves at right angles to the road, making any kind of cutting from a vehicle kind of sub-optimum right from the start. I'd get a good quality pole saw and accept that it's going to take some time to do the job right, the first time and then plan to spend a little time on a regular basis to maintain it.

 

[RitchElbe]

So I am moving implements around today..and I was pondering your challenge. I use a pto drive powered sickle mower with a belt to the bar..which allows me via hydraulics to angle the bar straight up for ( trimming low branches, hedges, limbs etc or go negative for banks...) then it hit me..can you do the same thing with the disk mowers like this? maybe hit up a metal fab shop for used metal cutting saw blades,, replace cutting disk with those? mount a stop bar a few inches in from the orbital tip of the blade to stop the branches from twisting around said blade. power it via hydraulics.. so you can fashion a quick attach to the FEL. Counter weight opposite side rear from the FEL side its weight is on? attached is a pic of one about the same size as mine

 

[jbooth]

I presently use a chainsaw set up (Limbhog) that will cut up to 10" limbs at heights approximately 16'. I am well satisfied with this set up but would like to have a circular saw to take care of the brushy low hanging limbs that occur with the osage orange tree rows. I have done some research and it appears there are numerous hydraulic motors that would handle the speed and power needed. My research also tells me That the surface feet per minute on the blade should be between 10,000 and 18,500 with a 15,000 sfpm being a good compromise. For a direct drive on a 24" blade the speed of the motor would be 2380 rpm to achieve 15,000 sfpm. I believe with a flow controller it would be feasible to dial in the speed you want.

I am almost 73 years old and the weed eater/pole saw solution does not appeal to me at all. I actually own a Stihl pole saw but can only last about 15 minutes with it fully extended. However, if there are some of those weed eater studs around who can cut 3x faster than the tractor mounted saw I would be glad to employ them at a lucrative wage. I would prefer to contract by the mile, but if they can assure me of their speed we could do it on an hourly basis.

 

[kneedeep]

This would work on large limbs, would not on brush. I have a lot of trees with low limbs I can't get under.
This is on my wishlist! :santahat:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QtHbqBSiiJE

 

[kneedeep]

This would work on large limbs, would not on brush. I have a lot of trees with low limbs I can't get under.
This is on my wishlist! :santahat:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QtHbqBSiiJE

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ad04hdfZA0A

 

[XxLT250RxX]

So I am moving implements around today..and I was pondering your challenge. I use a pto drive powered sickle mower with a belt to the bar..which allows me via hydraulics to angle the bar straight up for ( trimming low branches, hedges, limbs etc or go negative for banks...) then it hit me..can you do the same thing with the disk mowers like this? maybe hit up a metal fab shop for used metal cutting saw blades,, replace cutting disk with those? mount a stop bar a few inches in from the orbital tip of the blade to stop the branches from twisting around said blade. power it via hydraulics.. so you can fashion a quick attach to the FEL. Counter weight opposite side rear from the FEL side its weight is on? attached is a pic of one about the same size as mineView attachment 397782

Some good stuff here.

I presently use a chainsaw set up (Limbhog) that will cut up to 10" limbs at heights approximately 16'. I am well satisfied with this set up but would like to have a circular saw to take care of the brushy low hanging limbs that occur with the osage orange tree rows. I have done some research and it appears there are numerous hydraulic motors that would handle the speed and power needed. My research also tells me That the surface feet per minute on the blade should be between 10,000 and 18,500 with a 15,000 sfpm being a good compromise. For a direct drive on a 24" blade the speed of the motor would be 2380 rpm to achieve 15,000 sfpm. I believe with a flow controller it would be feasible to dial in the speed you want.

Excellent information. Thanks

I am almost 73 years old and the weed eater/pole saw solution does not appeal to me at all. I actually own a Stihl pole saw but can only last about 15 minutes with it fully extended. However, if there are some of those weed eater studs around who can cut 3x faster than the tractor mounted saw I would be glad to employ them at a lucrative wage. I would prefer to contract by the mile, but if they can assure me of their speed we could do it on an hourly basis.

Ha Ha I love this. When you are done with him I Would like to hire him as well!:laughing:

This would work on large limbs, would not on brush. I have a lot of trees with low limbs I can't get under.
This is on my wishlist! :santahat:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QtHbqBSiiJE

I actually built my own version of the Limbhog. I patterned it after the Limbhog but used a Sears Craftsman 110v electric chainsaw (cheap). I run it off a generator I carry on the rear of my tractor. It actually works really good on larger limbs but it is very fragile. I'm sure the first time it hangs on something it will be ripped apart.

 

[RitchElbe]

Off topic question. You wouldn't have any sections of osage orange dried out by chance would you?

I presently use a chainsaw set up (Limbhog) that will cut up to 10" limbs at heights approximately 16'. I am well satisfied with this set up but would like to have a circular saw to take care of the brushy low hanging limbs that occur with the osage orange tree rows. I have done some research and it appears there are numerous hydraulic motors that would handle the speed and power needed. My research also tells me That the surface feet per minute on the blade should be between 10,000 and 18,500 with a 15,000 sfpm being a good compromise. For a direct drive on a 24" blade the speed of the motor would be 2380 rpm to achieve 15,000 sfpm. I believe with a flow controller it would be feasible to dial in the speed you want.

I am almost 73 years old and the weed eater/pole saw solution does not appeal to me at all. I actually own a Stihl pole saw but can only last about 15 minutes with it fully extended. However, if there are some of those weed eater studs around who can cut 3x faster than the tractor mounted saw I would be glad to employ them at a lucrative wage. I would prefer to contract by the mile, but if they can assure me of their speed we could do it on an hourly basis.

 

[jbooth]

Off topic question. You wouldn't have any sections of osage orange dried out by chance would you?

I have lots of osage orange in all condition from posts that have been in the ground for 50 years to standing dead and standing green. Just cut about 2 cords for firewood yesterday. Rather I had a bunch of young bucks cut it on shares for the same reason I don't like pole saws and weed eaters. Osage orange is some of the best firewood you can get if your stove will stand the heat. I have roughly a mile of standing hedge row. We held back on cutting some of the bigger straight trees that I have down with the hopes of making saw logs/lumber.