FEL hooks

[RoyJackson]

Here are the parts. Most new except for a few large washers from the junk pile.

Just keep an eye on the U-bolts. You could be putting a lot of stress concentrated in a small area. Be especially watchful (when you do your "pre-flight") of the radii.

Note how your hooks are beefed up at the bottoms, the area of most stress.

Don't be overly concerned...just keep an eye on'em.

 

[ns_in_tex]

If your going to be doing a lot of drilling in steel, try to get some cutting oil, like the plumbers use to thread pipe. Sure does make a difference & makes the bits last longer also, I think.

 

[MikePA]

Do you think it would work just as well to swing the U bolt 90 degrees (parallel to the top of the bucket) and just slide the grab/slip hook onto the U bolt?

 

[RoyJackson]

Do you think it would work just as well to swing the U bolt 90 degrees (parallel to the top of the bucket) and just slide the grab/slip hook onto the U bolt?

If I'm correctly interpreting what you wrote, the U-bolts would be parallel to the front of the bucket...is that correct?

If so, I suggest you leave them as shown in the pictures above. As shown (in the pics at the earlier posts) the load is distributed as well as it's going to be with the hardware being used. Mounting the U-bolts parallel to the fron of the bucket would concentrate the load at the top of the external nuts or the root of the threads...both of which are sharper stress risers then the radii at each end of the U-bolt (see pic attached to this post). I doubt if they would last as long as they would if you leave them as shown (in the pics attached to the earlier posts) or, perpendicular to the front of the bucket.

It's just a trade off...just keep an eye out for cracking at the radii.

BTW, my hooks are welded to the bucket. A good weld is as strong as the base material. Welding, in my opinion, is the better way to attach the hooks. However, when they break, I'll have to grind them off. If and when your U-bolts fatigue, it's simply a matter of replacing the appropriate hardware.

 

[JRP]

Last week I bought a 29 piece drill bit set at Tractor Supply. Cost might have been $20. It was 1/16" to 1/2", with the bits made from high speed steel and titanium Nitride coating. I wrote a paper on the coating when in school. Great stuff!

The bits larger than 3/8" had turned down shanks that would fit a 3/8" chuck. These should be a good set for TBN readers. Probably made in China, but they have worked OK for now.

JRPoux

 

[gerard]

Here's how I did it with angle iron. four drilled holes, some bolts and a scrap pice of angle iron. Nice thing is the load is spread out over the hole top of the bucket.

 

[mrcaptainbob]

I sure like that idea! Hooks are limited to one direction. This can be used for and aft! I'm adding this idea to my backhoe buckets! Thanks for the picture and the idea.

 

[MikePA]

What do all of you think of this, particularly for those of us without access to a welder?

6" x 6" x 1/4" steel for $31.95. Add four grade 8 bolts, a shackle and a hook. For about $45, you have an alternative to a FEL hook. Better?

<A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.awdirect.com/awdirect/itm_img/MDK4MountedDRing.JPG>DRing Plate</A>

 

[Boondox]

Mike -- I've seen those, and from what I remember the load rating is fairly low. Certainly wouldn't handle the maple logs I lift. One of the advantages of using chain hooks is the ability to cinch up on the loose end. I don't have a welder, so just drove my tractor the six miles into town and had the body shop weld hooks onto my FEL. Cost me $5 total.

BTW: How do you anticipate using this arrangement?

Pete

 

[MikePA]

Hi Pete, the catalog says they have a 10,000 pound working load limit. I have no specific use planned, just a place to hook chains onto for general hauling and lifting chores.